Fuel Pump assembly collar

[John Chapman]

I am putting a new fuel pump assembly in my 2005 Yukon. I can't get the collar that holds the assembly in the tank to rotate to the 'latched' position. I've got a big hammer, two pound ball peen, and a several punches/drifts. I've cleaned and lubed the collar and the top of the new pump assembly but I can't get the collar to rotate. Does anyone have any secrets? Picture shows as far as I've been able to get it after several tries.

 

[Fless]

If you haven't yet, be sure you have only one o-ring installed, and the locator tab on the fuel pump is correctly oriented so the pump can't turn once clamped down. It looks correct to me, but I don't have a full view.

See this post by @mattbta for what he used. His is a different lock ring but maybe that tool would work.

MAF sensor brand

Those rings can be a bugger to turn all the way on, but that's so the seal is good. They make a tool for that but I didn't use one on my '04, just two channel lock pliers on opposite sides of the ring. You'll know it's all the way on when the latch can go into the slot on the ring. This is a...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

Your tank seems to be missing the latch, unless I missed it in the pic. Here's mine, same as @mattbta's:

 

[John Chapman]

If you haven't yet, be sure you have only one o-ring installed, and the locator tab on the fuel pump is correctly oriented so the pump can't turn once clamped down. It looks correct to me, but I don't have a full view.

See this post by @mattbta for what he used. His is a different lock ring but maybe that tool would work.

MAF sensor brand

Those rings can be a bugger to turn all the way on, but that's so the seal is good. They make a tool for that but I didn't use one on my '04, just two channel lock pliers on opposite sides of the ring. You'll know it's all the way on when the latch can go into the slot on the ring. This is a...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

Your tank seems to be missing the latch, unless I missed it in the pic. Here's mine, same as @mattbta's:

View attachment 434348

Your's is different, the ones with the latch seem easier based on the YouTube videos I've seen. On ones like mine they show them starting them, and then cut and come back with the last hammer hit setting it in place. The Channalocks might work, I have a big pair. If not, I'll think I'll be making a spanner of some sort so I can get a twisting motion instead of moving it from one side to the other with a hammer and punch.

 

[mattbta]

The post @Fless linked has my link to an amazon tool. Click into it as the post preview is misleading. This tool allows use of a ratchet wrench and is adjustable to fit many lock rings.

See pic:

 

[89Suburban]

Bottom line is they are all a major btch to lock into place in my experience especially the mounting style you have pictured looks like a flex fuel pump. Really don't know how the metal locks don't rip out of the tank plastic to be honest.

 

[Donal]

I am putting a new fuel pump assembly in my 2005 Yukon. I can't get the collar that holds the assembly in the tank to rotate to the 'latched' position. I've got a big hammer, two pound ball peen, and a several punches/drifts. I've cleaned and lubed the collar and the top of the new pump assembly but I can't get the collar to rotate. Does anyone have any secrets? Picture shows as far as I've been able to get it after several tries.

Did the new o ring appear to be the same cross section as the old one and about the same diameter? Maybe try installing the lock ring with out the pump in place and identify any fit problems. This style of ring has been use for many years. Maybe this one has a tab that will prevent the ring from being installed out of time? I remember one tank that was a problem and we had to bend the locks a tiny bit to allow the ring tab to get started and then the ring advanced to the correct position. The ring that you have may not be correct. I also remember one ring that the tabs were different lengths and could be started only in one position.
When using a punch or drift, use a diametrical pattern to help keep the lock ring centered around the pump.

 

[Fless]

On mine we used two people with channellocks, positioned 180° from each other, squeezing at the same time.

Do some of these fuel tanks NOT have the external latch, and lock when the ring gets fully seated?

 

[Donal]

On mine we used two people with channellocks, positioned 180° from each other, squeezing at the same time.

Do some of these fuel tanks NOT have the external latch, and lock when the ring gets fully seated?

Yes. i did an 04 Silverado and on 05 Suburban in the last year, both as the op's picture. Many older ones and never seen one with lock as you posted. I have a MU1474 on the shelf, but lock ring is not included.

 

[swathdiver]

If the ring is warped/bent, it is supposed to be replaced. 10325852 or TR26. Then it is supposed to be loosened and tightened with J-45722, not a drift and hammer.

 

[John Chapman]

Did the new o ring appear to be the same cross section as the old one and about the same diameter? Maybe try installing the lock ring with out the pump in place and identify any fit problems. This style of ring has been use for many years. Maybe this one has a tab that will prevent the ring from being installed out of time? I remember one tank that was a problem and we had to bend the locks a tiny bit to allow the ring tab to get started and then the ring advanced to the correct position. The ring that you have may not be correct. I also remember one ring that the tabs were different lengths and could be started only in one position.
When using a punch or drift, use a diametrical pattern to help keep the lock ring centered around the pump.

The o-ring looks the same except it hasn't been clamped down for 20 years. It's just a ***** to get it to turn fully to the latched position. I've got the special tool coming, it may still be challenging but the hammer and punch aren't getting it.