Gas Cap - Hard Start after fueling

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Wolfbraid

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So my next nuisance problem...
So the gas cap I have wasn't sealing properly, go figure and I'd get the occasional "tighten gas cap" message, also have the generic EVAP check engine code(forgot which)

I've since figured out how to make the gas cap snug(i still think i have the wrong one) but I don't get that message anymore.

I've read and read and read.

So here is my problem as I see it.
When getting gas, when i first open the tank it is under vacuum I can hear it suck in air when I loosen the cap. The tank fills absolutely fine, pump doesn't click off until full.
After re-capping and trying to start engine, the engine won't start without a bit of gas pedal work.

I think it's the purge valve on the intake manifold, and not the solenoid by the tank.

I also think the other day while travelling I left the engine running while fueling(yeah I know)
and I think I opened the tank and the truck stalled out.

Would like input, am I heading the right direction with the purge valve.
 

Hi-psi

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^^ Yup ^^

I had a similar issue last year. Ended up being the purge valve just behind the alternator. It was leaking fuel vapor into the intake when it was supposed to be closed, in essence "flooding" the engine just enough to cause the problem.
 

intheburbs

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Yup. Purge valve. Had the same issue with my Burb. Would choke and sputter after fueling. On my truck with the 6.0, it's right behind the alternator. $23 part at Autozone. Took about 25 minutes. The fittings are a little finicky.
 
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Wolfbraid

Wolfbraid

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Changed it out tonight... was pretty easy although the clip was brittle..
anyone know where to get one, I can't seem to find one that looks like this.
since its a vacuum line it holds fine for now, but I still want the clip.
IMG_20190108_235452808.jpg
 

Hi-psi

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Changed it out tonight... was pretty easy although the clip was brittle..
anyone know where to get one, I can't seem to find one that looks like this.
since its a vacuum line it holds fine for now, but I still want the clip.

Napa part# 730-6783
Dorman part# 800-032

GM doesn't sell just the clips, and for the price of two silly little clips aftermarket, you can buy a whole new line from GM with new clips ($12-17).
 

swathdiver

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I also think the other day while travelling I left the engine running while fueling(yeah I know)

Nothing wrong with that from a safety standpoint. I can count on one or two hands the amount of times I've refueled with the engine off and that was to check the oil!
 
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Yup, if it's cold out and the family is in the car I'll keep it running when fueling up

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
 
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Wolfbraid

Wolfbraid

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Yup, if it's cold out and the family is in the car I'll keep it running when fueling up

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

Exactly, it was chilly and the DVD was running... only if I could disable my door sensor it would stay on... normally I shut it down.
 

Timdenn180

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So my next nuisance problem...
So the gas cap I have wasn't sealing properly, go figure and I'd get the occasional "tighten gas cap" message, also have the generic EVAP check engine code(forgot which)

I've since figured out how to make the gas cap snug(i still think i have the wrong one) but I don't get that message anymore.

I've read and read and read.

So here is my problem as I see it.
When getting gas, when i first open the tank it is under vacuum I can hear it suck in air when I loosen the cap. The tank fills absolutely fine, pump doesn't click off until full.
After re-capping and trying to start engine, the engine won't start without a bit of gas pedal work.

I think it's the purge valve on the intake manifold, and not the solenoid by the tank.

I also think the other day while travelling I left the engine running while fueling(yeah I know)
and I think I opened the tank and the truck stalled out.

Would like input, am I heading the right direction with the purge valve.
Was it your purge valve? I’m having the same issues and already changed the purge valve
 
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