Glitter in 6.2L oil ... please help

[rdezs]

And note you have a smaller plastic piece that the chain rides on on the opposite side. You could have simply lost that as well. It would make a ticking sound in either case, as the chain sort of bounces off the remnants of the tensioner

 

[thefrey]

And note you have a smaller plastic piece that the chain rides on on the opposite side. You could have simply lost that as well. It would make a ticking sound in either case, as the chain sort of bounces off the remnants of the tensioner

Here’s a video of the engine idle after the first startup since o-ring replacement

Aaaaand here’s the timing chain slack. It’s probably not supposed to be like that LMAO. For reference, I'm touching the right side of the timing chain if you're looking at it head on

 

[thefrey]

And note you have a smaller plastic piece that the chain rides on on the opposite side. You could have simply lost that as well. It would make a ticking sound in either case, as the chain sort of bounces off the remnants of the tensioner

Here’s a photo of the filter pleats with the oil squeezed out of them. Really not much. But I wonder if the tiny flakes you do see could be the timing chain hitting the metal because those seemed to be ferrous (but I didn’t have a super strong magnet)

 

[rdezs]

Without a doubt, your next course of action is to pull the front cover. Since you'll be removing the oil pump, might as well replace it. (And open up and remove the oil pressure relief valve see if there's a bunch of crud collected in there.)

I prefer the felpro gaskets and seals. Get their front cover set, it will come with a new crankshaft seal. Take note that it is Teflon, do not lubricate it before sliding a harmonic balancer in. It actually gets assembled dry, or it will leak guaranteed. You'll want a crankshaft locking tool that goes in place of the starter. Several available on Amazon. You will need a serious breaker bar to break loose the crankshaft bolt. I use a 42-in 3/4 drive breaker bar.... But a good quality half inch breaker bar with a 24 inch pipe over it will do the trick. Crankshaft bolt needs to be replaced once it's removed, it's torque to yield. I always replace them with a good quality crankshaft bolt that's reusable. (ARP, just search on Amazon for arp LS crankshaft bolt)

How far you go while you're in there I guess depends on your budget. At a very minimum, you can just replace the chain and the tensioner. I would consider an oem oil pump a mandatory change as well. If you decide to change the gears and get a complete set, go with a good brand such as Cloye's or Melling. Same for the tensioner itself. For the VVT solenoid and actuator, you want to stick to genuine GM or ACDelco.

 

[rdezs]

Lol, even the timing chain in my lq4 engine in the 2003 Hummer H2 is tighter than yours, and there's no tensioner in that That's good that you checked that!

 

[thefrey]

Without a doubt, your next course of action is to pull the front cover. Since you'll be removing the oil pump, might as well replace it. (And open up and remove the oil pressure relief valve see if there's a bunch of crud collected in there.)

I prefer the felpro gaskets and seals. Get their front cover set, it will come with a new crankshaft seal. Take note that it is Teflon, do not lubricate it before sliding a harmonic balancer in. It actually gets assembled dry, or it will leak guaranteed. You'll want a crankshaft locking tool that goes in place of the starter. Several available on Amazon. You will need a serious breaker bar to break loose the crankshaft bolt. I use a 42-in 3/4 drive breaker bar.... But a good quality half inch breaker bar with a 24 inch pipe over it will do the trick. Crankshaft bolt needs to be replaced once it's removed, it's torque to yield. I always replace them with a good quality crankshaft bolt that's reusable. (ARP, just search on Amazon for arp LS crankshaft bolt)

How far you go while you're in there I guess depends on your budget. At a very minimum, you can just replace the chain and the tensioner. I would consider an oem oil pump a mandatory change as well. If you decide to change the gears and get a complete set, go with a good brand such as Cloye's or Melling. Same for the tensioner itself. For the VVT solenoid and actuator, you want to stick to genuine GM or ACDelco.

Haha well it sucks that I found it but I'm glad I did lol. Just gotta figure out how to tell my wife we gotta put more money into the Yukon without getting whacked

I found a Melling timing kit (TOPK1001HV) and it comes with a HV pump, new sprockets and tensioner, and new solenoid. The solenoid is MELLING VCTO1000. Would you avoid the solenoid since it's not OEM? I am looking at doing the timing kit from Melling since it looks like it's a solid deal

 

[rdezs]

The only thing coming off to get the front cover, is the serpentine belt, your AC stretch belt, the harmonic balancer and the water pump. There is one bolt on the timing cover on the bottom left that looks like a challenge, the AC compressor is a bit in the way.... But a 10 mm box and wrench will get it out. When reinstalling the stretch belt for the AC, first place it behind the harmonic balancer, been over the AC pulley, then over the top of the harmonic balancer and turn the engine over clockwise while guiding it by hand. It stretches quite a bit, but no special tools needed.

 

[rdezs]

I've had really good luck with Melling, and actually prefer them.

 

[thefrey]

I've had really good luck with Melling, and actually prefer them.

So you'd say the Melling solenoid would be good to use?

I also am realistically not going to delete the AFM, so I think a HV pump will be a good thing to add to prolong the engine.

 

[rdezs]

I wouldn't worry about the Melling solenoid..... It's the actuator that screws into the end of the camshaft and controls valve timing, definitely stick with OEM for that. The solenoid is easy to get to if you have an issue, you're not pulling the cover again to deal with it.