Glitter in 6.2L oil ... please help

[thefrey]

I also swapped the motor mount while I had the pan out (and I’m glad I did) because of all the room. And the motor mount in there quit a long time ago

 

[thefrey]

I wouldn't worry about the Melling solenoid..... It's the actuator that screws into the end of the camshaft and controls valve timing, definitely stick with OEM for that. The solenoid is easy to get to if you have an issue, you're not pulling the cover again to deal with it.

Amazing. I can't thank you enough for all of the help and info you've given me. I really appreciate it. I know what I need to do now and now I just need to do it lol

 

[rdezs]

Now you get to explain to your other half about the long list of stuff...."while we are in there"

Make sure you use the word 'we' so she feels part of everything

New water pump, serpentine belt, the pulley and tensioner, new hoses. Lol, everything is connected to something so the list is as long as you want to make it. Knowing when to stop is the most difficult thing!

 

[rdezs]

Amazing. I can't thank you enough for all of the help and info you've given me. I really appreciate it. I know what I need to do now and now I just need to do it lol

No problem, that's what the forum is for. But not only saves you time working out the little details like that one bolt with a 10 mm box end wrench.... It will answer questions for a lot of people in the future that scroll through the subject matter for years.

Like when it comes to removing the harmonic balancer. There's several listed on Amazon at reasonable prices, but usually you can loan one out with a deposit for most auto parts stores like AutoZone or O'Reilly's. Same for the crankshaft gear. Many people just put a large screwdriver on each side, keep trying to rock it back and forth and eventually it'll pop off. Or a two or three jaw generic puller works well.

You definitely need the crankshaft locking tool. Disconnect your battery. Remove starter. Bolt this thing in place of the starter to hold the crankshaft stationary while you break loose the harmonic balancer bolt. Then remove it. Remove timing cover. Rotate the engine until the timing marks are lined up as in the photo above. The arrow pointed down on the camshaft gear, the dot on the crankshaft gear up. Then reinstall your crankshaft locking tool again. You will leave it installed until after you have torqued not only the camshaft actuator after installing the new chain and gears, but until after you are done installing the harmonic balancer and torquing it down.

 

[rdezs]

3mirrors LS Engine Flywheel Holding Locking Tool Kit Compatible with 4.8 5.3 5.7 6.0 6.2 LS1 LS2 LS3 LS6 Chevy LSX Camaro, Corvette, Trans am, GTO, G8, CTS V, GM Trucks https://a.co/d/aW1MRKy

 

[Geotrash]

So you'd say the Melling solenoid would be good to use?

I also am realistically not going to delete the AFM, so I think a HV pump will be a good thing to add to prolong the engine.

The L94 came with a HV pump from the factory. I used the Melling 365HV on my 2012 and my oil pressure has been great.

And in the interest of continuing to help you spend your money, here is my cam swap thread in case you want to get into a full AFM delete at some point. I'm thrilled with the Cam Motion Stage 2 Truck Cam I went with. The truck is a beast now. Smooth idle and I don't miss the VVT at all. It rips right off the line and I can maintain a higher gear on the same grades when towing 7,500 lbs.

2012 Yukon XL Denali 6.2L Cam Swap Thread

I love that Cam Motion measures each cam after grinding and finishing. Here's the cam card. Blub blub blub...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[thefrey]

The L94 came with a HV pump from the factory. I used the Melling 365HV on my 2012 and my oil pressure has been great.

Oh interesting. Then would a Melling HV still be superior? I'm assuming it will still give me more oil pressure considering the original pump is probably somewhat worn

 

[Geotrash]

Oh interesting. Then would a Melling HV still be superior? I'm assuming it will still give me more oil pressure considering the original pump is probably somewhat worn

It's the one that Summit recommended to me at the time. I don't know if it's superior, but I know that it works very well in the L94. After my initial cam swap, I had to go back in and replace the pump because the factory pump wasn't keeping the pressure high enough - similar to your situation - even though I had replaced the o-ring with the same red one as you initially.

 

[thefrey]

It's the one that Summit recommended to me at the time. I don't know if it's superior, but I know that it works very well in the L94. After my initial cam swap, I had to go back in and replace the pump because the factory pump wasn't keeping the pressure high enough - similar to your situation - even though I had replaced the o-ring with the same red one as you initially.

Gotcha. I'll look into it. Did you need to drop your pan when you installed it or were you able to do it just through the front cover?

 

[Geotrash]

Gotcha. I'll look into it. Did you need to drop your pan when you installed it or were you able to do it just through the front cover?

Had to drop the pan, unfortunately.

Oh, one of the reasons I went with the 3-bolt non-VVT cam was to get rid of that damned tensioner and replace it with the bowtie type for better durability.