Glitter in 6.2L oil ... please help

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

OP
OP
thefrey

thefrey

Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2025
Posts
81
Reaction score
54
Had to drop the pan, unfortunately.

Oh, one of the reasons I went with the 3-bolt non-VVT cam was to get rid of that damned tensioner and replace it with the bowtie type for better durability.
Well, that's lovely considering I just dropped the pan yesterday and put it back together. Might be doing it again then
 

Geotrash

Dave
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2018
Posts
6,952
Reaction score
17,543
Location
Richmond, VA
Well, that's lovely considering I just dropped the pan yesterday and put it back together. Might be doing it again then
I know it and I'm feeling your pain. Had to drop my pan 3x myself because of bad lifter trays taking out cams until I figured it out.
 
OP
OP
thefrey

thefrey

Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2025
Posts
81
Reaction score
54
I know it and I'm feeling your pain. Had to drop my pan 3x myself because of bad lifter trays taking out cams until I figured it out.
Were you at least able to reuse your oil pan gasket or did you purchase a new one every time?
 

rdezs

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2023
Posts
439
Reaction score
643
For everyday street use, the VVT is fantastic. It's what gives you low end torque, which gives you the good fuel mileage, yet you still have 408 horsepower if you wind it out. You can go for much more horsepower with a non VVT cam, and frequently end up with less low end torque and you sacrifice fuel mileage. It all depends on what year goal for the vehicle is. In my case it's my wife's commuter car on her 50 mile a day round trip on a state highway with a 55 mph speed limit. Lol, she doesn't need 500 horsepower. If you do the AFM delete, you don't need the 365 HP pump. I usually install the Melling 10296 with the +10 PSI spring installed, and simply swap out the OEM VVT AFM camshaft for an L92 VVT camshaft.... You'll keep the stock power rating, and lose the AFM but retain variable valve timing. It all depends on what you want to do..... And how fast your wife wants to go :cool:
 

Geotrash

Dave
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2018
Posts
6,952
Reaction score
17,543
Location
Richmond, VA
For everyday street use, the VVT is fantastic. It's what gives you low end torque, which gives you the good fuel mileage, yet you still have 408 horsepower if you wind it out. You can go for much more horsepower with a non VVT cam, and frequently end up with less low end torque and you sacrifice fuel mileage. It all depends on what year goal for the vehicle is. In my case it's my wife's commuter car on her 50 mile a day round trip on a state highway with a 55 mph speed limit. Lol, she doesn't need 500 horsepower. If you do the AFM delete, you don't need the 365 HP pump. I usually install the Melling 10296 with the +10 PSI spring installed, and simply swap out the OEM VVT AFM camshaft for an L92 VVT camshaft.... You'll keep the stock power rating, and lose the AFM but retain variable valve timing. It all depends on what you want to do..... And how fast your wife wants to go :cool:
Check your numbers on this because it hasn't matched my research or experience at all. And I went down many rabbit holes both here and on the LS1Tech forums. As best I can tell, VVT is good for MAYBE 15 hp down low - it's mainly a fuel economy play on the L94 - and that 15 hp is easily made up for with the right cam. I have two Yukon XL Denali's - one with the L92 and factory cam with VVT, and one with the cammed L94. Both are Blackbear tuned and the L94 without VVT will run circles around the L92 with VVT.

I'm not saying the VVT is worthless. I'm just saying it's not all that. And they both get about the same gas mileage, for what it's worth.
 

rdezs

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2023
Posts
439
Reaction score
643
The amount of peak horsepower you can get with the VVT cam is rather limited. A non BBT cam really opened the door up for higher horsepower. Generally as you add more horsepower with those cams, the power band is up high, and you lose the low end torque. The VVT.... Wether in an l92 without AFM or an old 94 with it.... Both make roughly 408 horsepower with lots of torque right off idle. It's sort of a compromise for driveability reasons. The best way to get the best of both worlds is with more displacement. Such as a 408 cubic inch stroker. There's so many choices in so many variables, it really does depend on what each person wants to use it for. For my wife's commuter and grocery getter, it's more than she'll ever need or use. (She gave it 3/4 throttle getting on the freeway and actually scared herself, LOL)
And if it's destined to be a family car, you might want to consider reliability. You start putting more lift on those valve springs, more pressure on the cam, result in a shorter overall engine life. But that's not a concern for someone after sheer horsepower.
 

rdezs

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2023
Posts
439
Reaction score
643
And that l94 with an aftermarket performance camshaft, tuned by black bear.... Totally utilizing the larger injectors that come on the flex fuel engines... Will simply use more fuel, but definitely increases the fun Factor. In theory, in the engine that's putting out more power you should be able to get better fuel mileage if you can keep your foot out of it because it's more efficient..... As long as you're cruising roughly where the torque peak is. If it doesn't make good torque till 2000 RPM, you won't get the good mileage. My wife is getting just under 20 miles per gallon on her commute. That is up from 17.2 when the AFM was active. All stock except for the oil pump, the LS7 lifters, thicker push rods, the OEM L92 camshaft and 1 thousandth taken off each head.
 

donjetman

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2018
Posts
1,752
Reaction score
3,096
I had the valve covers, intake manifold, valley cover, timing cover, and oil pan off (again) last summer to do a little more cleanup work and preventative mx:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/valley-cover-crank-pulley-etc.149036/
While I was in there:
Replace the crank pulley/balancer, bolt, and seal.
Replace timing cover gasket
Paint valve covers
replace vc bolt seals on pass side
Replace VLOM & gasket with new.
Replace oil pressure sender
Replace oil pump o-ring (again) and added 2nd bolt
Replace oil pan gasket
Replace both belts
Replace cam position sensor
Replace camshaft phaser magnet & gasket
Clean inside and outside of timing cover
Clean inside of oil pan
 
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
134,592
Posts
1,904,693
Members
100,029
Latest member
Rhrobert
Top