Got me a couple problems

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AtomicHoe094

Atomichoe094
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air cleaner?? comon man i know you know where thats at~ its that black box on the passenger side that goes into the fender.. you have to take that apart to get to the filter part..

Egr on your vortec is in front of the motor.. im not sure where exactly, i dont have a vortec.... different yrs had diff locations ..
 

hapyspaz

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once you clean the IAC (idle air controler) and clean the EGR, tap on the IAC lightly while you have it running. Much like a mass air sensor, if it is going bad it will choke the engine.

Here is the EGR location on the vortecs, right next to the thermostat. This image shows the intake with a restrictor plate in place.

rockers.jpg
 
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OP
OP
Bad bow tie

Bad bow tie

Grizz Straight FTMFW
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Chalk another onto the list...

Well, I didn't get around to cleaning the EGR. Want to know why? I encountered another problem on my way home from work yesterday. I was on the freeway doing a modest 72 mph, when all the sudden I had a terrible vibration. This has been an ongoing problem but it has never been this bad. It seemed to start getting worse when I had to pull my buddy out of a mud hole down this nasty ass two track made for quads. That was last weekend. It was coming from the rear so I thought I had kicked a wheel weight or the u-joints were finally going. It did it my entire ride home which is an hour. IT seemed to quit as soon it down shifted to a lower gear or when I let off the gas. When I got home, I put it up on stands and took a look at the u-joints. Holy shit, they were as loose as a working girl's ******. I couldn't believe how much play there was. The one on the back of the drive shaft that connects to the rear diff was missing all the needle bearings inside the cap and had actually worn down the stud on the actual u-joint. I am surprised it didn't break on the freeway leaving me stranded; especially with Michigans ****** roads. (potholes everywhere) So I go to local parts store and buy two new ones to replace both in the back. Drive shaft came off easy, put the one on the rear of the shaft in. The one that connects the shaft to the tranny was sort of a ***** but I eventually got it out. I was about to put the new one in when I noticed a hair line crack running across the circular part of the yoke. So now I have to go the junk yard and see if I can find a new yoke to put in. I didn't want to re-install the cracked one. So right now she is sitting in the garage on jack stands awaiting the new yoke while I'm driving the new Silvy. I just wonder if this was a contributing factor in the bucking/jerking sensation. I guess we'll see.
 
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OP
OP
Bad bow tie

Bad bow tie

Grizz Straight FTMFW
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It was a memorable experience. My money is on them being original from the factory. They had the grease zerk on them and said "forged in the USA" or something along those lines. Crazy thing is I'm under there all the damn time checking shit out. Good news is I bought a new used drive shaft with a good slip yoke and all new u-joints for $50. One of the bone yards I called wanted $195 for just the yoke. I will install it when I get out of work. Hopefully one, maybe two problems are solved.
 
OP
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Bad bow tie

Bad bow tie

Grizz Straight FTMFW
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haha...I spent $36 on two new ones from autozones last night. They were the white lithium grease ones that you never have to service and carry a lifetime warranty. I'm going to bang them out and try to return them. No sense in having them anymore.
 

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