ScottyBoy
Full Access Member
I have have done more of these than I can count. I have done well over 2 dozen strictly for members on this forum alone.
And that's true about the "Hot Spots" , sometimes they are unavoidable due to the way the switch is set up on the inside. But I have found that sanding the tip of the LED with fine sandpaper diffuses the light some and ends up giving it a better spread pattern and helps or completely eliminates hot spots.
I also discovered that blue LEDs work the best in the NBS switches. Some of the switches have a bluish tinted overlay it graphic. White LEDs look pure white in the switches without this film, but look light blue in the switches that do have the blue film. So the end result is two completely different colors and it looks like crap IMO. The blue LEDs look the same in all the switches, the film doesn't alter the color at all.
---------- Post added at 10:58 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:52 AM ----------
And you are 100% correct about the camera exposure. There is no way to accurately catch the LEDs with a camera. They either looks 10 times as brighter than they actually are, or else they come out looking purple in the picture. Hot spots that are just barely there ( not even visible) look 100 times brighter in the picture.
And that's true about the "Hot Spots" , sometimes they are unavoidable due to the way the switch is set up on the inside. But I have found that sanding the tip of the LED with fine sandpaper diffuses the light some and ends up giving it a better spread pattern and helps or completely eliminates hot spots.
I also discovered that blue LEDs work the best in the NBS switches. Some of the switches have a bluish tinted overlay it graphic. White LEDs look pure white in the switches without this film, but look light blue in the switches that do have the blue film. So the end result is two completely different colors and it looks like crap IMO. The blue LEDs look the same in all the switches, the film doesn't alter the color at all.
---------- Post added at 10:58 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:52 AM ----------
And you are 100% correct about the camera exposure. There is no way to accurately catch the LEDs with a camera. They either looks 10 times as brighter than they actually are, or else they come out looking purple in the picture. Hot spots that are just barely there ( not even visible) look 100 times brighter in the picture.
