HEAT BLOWING COLD

[Moses1291]

Hey everyone,


Not sure on where to put this but I have a 2007 Chevy Tahoe love the hell out of this truck. More recently it has stopped blowing heat. Even when I crank it up to 90 and on full blast. I changed out the the fuses. Took it to the shop and the shop is telling me they have to take out the whole dash. Now before I do any of that I wanna know if anyone has any other suggestions on what I can do to fix the heat. Quick caveat I live in the Northeast and it is September and it's going to be cold very soon. I wanna make sure that this is a quick fix rather than having to take out the whole dash. There's no leaks and I've confirmed that the compressor is working just fine. Any suggestions thank you.

 

[OR VietVet]

First: Welcome to the forum.

Second: You are not saying why they need to remove the whole dash. Just taking the dash out and putting it back in does not fix anything. In all likelihood, the reason the dash has to come out is that it needs a blend door actuator. There are 4 of them and some you do have to remove dash for the access to it. Some are accessed from under the dash. If you do it, replace all 4 while in there and use Genuine GM or AC Delco parts. Dorman is cheaper and it is cheap and will fail eventually. If the shop said something else about why dash has to come out, please share. Is it a secret? Or you can cut a big hole in the top of dash for access.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

@swathdiver

 

[Doubeleive]

Hey everyone,


Not sure on where to put this but I have a 2007 Chevy Tahoe love the hell out of this truck. More recently it has stopped blowing heat. Even when I crank it up to 90 and on full blast. I changed out the the fuses. Took it to the shop and the shop is telling me they have to take out the whole dash. Now before I do any of that I wanna know if anyone has any other suggestions on what I can do to fix the heat. Quick caveat I live in the Northeast and it is September and it's going to be cold very soon. I wanna make sure that this is a quick fix rather than having to take out the whole dash. There's no leaks and I've confirmed that the compressor is working just fine. Any suggestions thank you.

there are troubleshooting steps you can take to determine where the problem is exactly, I assume this have been done?
a tool like a tech2 is very helpful for things like this but without it you can do some basics
1. after a good drive where you know the coolant is up to temp then pop the hood and feel the 2 heater hoses that enter the firewall on the passenger side
they both should be warm if not somewhat hot, if one is much cooler than the other then it's possible the heater core is plugged up and that would be reason to pull the dash out.
otherwise you can pull the cover off under the passenger side glove box and check the blend door actuator to see if it moves hot to cold as it should
there are a couple more actuators one is in behind the passenger airbag and another is up under the center of the dash. I wouldn't be concerned about those until you have checked 1st things 1st. and make a determination that problem is somewhere else

 

[Moses1291]

First: Welcome to the forum.

Second: You are not saying why they need to remove the whole dash. Just taking the dash out and putting it back in does not fix anything. In all likelihood, the reason the dash has to come out is that it needs a blend door actuator. There are 4 of them and some you do have to remove dash for the access to it. Some are accessed from under the dash. If you do it, replace all 4 while in there and use Genuine GM or AC Delco parts. Dorman is cheaper and it is cheap and will fail eventually. If the shop said something else about why dash has to come out, please share. Is it a secret? Or you can cut a big hole in the top of dash for access.

Hey thank you for the info. They did not say or I did not catch what they needed to do when they pulled out the dash. But I figured it was just gonna be a large job that I definitely did not want to pay for at this moment I'm going to look up the two actuators that are going to be accessed from under the dash and replace all four. And then see what happens I'll be back thanks again

 

[swathdiver]

Pulling the dash to replace the heater core or evaporator or some internal HVAC doors is not a big job to a man that does it often.

If you have a bi-directional scan tool that can read BCM codes, you first use that to ensure that all the relevant actuators are working properly and test them.

Then you want to do as Wes mentioned and make sure the heater core is making heat.



If you have to replace the Recirc or passenger side air temperature actuators, see my post where I explained how to do it and what tools are needed.

Posts: 1,174 and 1,186 Here: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/useless-information.97483/page-118

 

[Doubeleive]

Hey thank you for the info. They did not say or I did not catch what they needed to do when they pulled out the dash. But I figured it was just gonna be a large job that I definitely did not want to pay for at this moment I'm going to look up the two actuators that are going to be accessed from under the dash and replace all four. And then see what happens I'll be back thanks again

why throw money at it? check what was suggested and go from there, no reason to replace a actuator if there is nothing wrong with it

 

[OR VietVet]

"why throw money at it? No reason to replace a actuator if there is nothing wrong with it"

Unless of course you are OR VietVet......