Heatin/overheating??!

[OR VietVet]

You compared to an 04 Yukon in your initial post but gave no year, make or model of the current rig. Can't look up or recommend a new radiator without that info. Why is this so hard for members to give their vehicle details so that any attempt at help can be so much easier. It's like pulling teeth sometimes. It's like going in to a restaurant and ordering steak and the waiter asks what type and you say, "Doesn't matter. They are all the same". NOT!



We recommend that you put all your rig(s) info in your signature so we all don’t have to guess at year, make, model, engine size, trans, rear axle locker…….etc. While you may have posted pertinent info in your first post, you may forget to do it again and the info is needed by us anyway. Makes it way easier on all members that attempt to help, to have that info right up front. It is also recommended that you take a pic of your RPO codes, on the inside cover of the glove box, and post that image in your signature. All this info will greatly help those that will try to help with a problem.


If there is any other info, like upgrades, mods or recent mechanical/maintenance work done, that would be helpful in any post as well. Too many times a question is asked by the poster and after about 10 responses we find out that the poster has done recent work to attempt to fix the problem or work that was done that SEEMS not related to the problem.

 

[Doubeleive]

Made it home. There no apparent clogging of the fins, but I’m taking the grating off and pressure washing them both in a few hours.
Any recommendations on an aftermarket radiator? The tru-flow transmission cooler is universal, I take it...

I have bought mine from 1800radiator they had the best option for me which was a smidgen thicker than oem with a lifetime warranty, surprisingly it also has a draincock that gm decided to delete. this is the one I bought it will fit and work in yours. they deliver.
#103285

 

[Doubeleive]

You compared to an 04 Yukon in your initial post but gave no year, make or model of the current rig. Can't look up or recommend a new radiator without that info. Why is this so hard for members to give their vehicle details so that any attempt at help can be so much easier. It's like pulling teeth sometimes. It's like going in to a restaurant and ordering steak and the waiter asks what type and you say, "Doesn't matter. They are all the same". NOT!



We recommend that you put all your rig(s) info in your signature so we all don’t have to guess at year, make, model, engine size, trans, rear axle locker…….etc. While you may have posted pertinent info in your first post, you may forget to do it again and the info is needed by us anyway. Makes it way easier on all members that attempt to help, to have that info right up front. It is also recommended that you take a pic of your RPO codes, on the inside cover of the glove box, and post that image in your signature. All this info will greatly help those that will try to help with a problem.


If there is any other info, like upgrades, mods or recent mechanical/maintenance work done, that would be helpful in any post as well. Too many times a question is asked by the poster and after about 10 responses we find out that the poster has done recent work to attempt to fix the problem or work that was done that SEEMS not related to the problem.

ron all the 07-14 will take the same radiator, the only exception might be a hybrid, you might even be able to fit 00-14 with some exceptions. the only difference is if it has engine oil cooling or not and if it does not the radiator with that option will still fit and work the ports just wouldn't be used.

 

[Tim907356]

2010 Yukon Denali XL, w/ 125k miles.
With that behind us, the radiator and trans. cooler fins seemed clean . I pressure washed them anyway, but having to dig down to get to it makes me just want to replace it. A drain valve would be nice, but high efficiency is the key. The have to fix the sway bar links first (are they really plastic!?) with a set of moogs on the way. Next will be the cooling parts.
Thanks for the req. on 1800radiator....I’ll give them a look.

 

[Doubeleive]

2010 Yukon Denali XL, w/ 125k miles.
With that behind us, the radiator and trans. cooler fins seemed clean . I pressure washed them anyway, but having to dig down to get to it makes me just want to replace it. A drain valve would be nice, but high efficiency is the key. The have to fix the sway bar links first (are they really plastic!?) with a set of moogs on the way. Next will be the cooling parts.
Thanks for the req. on 1800radiator....I’ll give them a look.

I think the links have a metal part inside but I never checked the oem ones with a magnet

 

[Foggy]

I like the plastic oem sway bar links as far as removal...
If you've ever removed the solid steel type from a ford especially,
they take an act of God to remove.. At least the plastic ones can be
broken/cut off easily.. Then replace with good aftermarket ones.

On the radiator thing, I did the Mishimoto.. But it's expensive and
probably overkill with all stock components , unless you are towing heavy
a lot. I'm hoping that with the Mishi, I won't have to use an aux trans
cooler. Mine already has the factory aux trans cooler, so dicking with all
new lines, etc would be a pita

 

[BG1988]

So, were taking our first weekend getaway to the nc mountains, near Cherokee. We’re pulling our, let’s say, 4500# travel trailer. Going up hills, even modest ones, I see the temp gauge rise to as much as ~240deg. or so. I’ve never seen it move from 210 before,but haven’t loaded it this much either.
Comparing to my old 04 Yukon xl, its temp never budged: I could be going up a hill floored at 40mph. with the trailer, and it wouldn’t move 1deg. from 210. I checked coolant, and it’s topped off. The temp drops to normal going downhills.
So, is this behavior normal? It would seem a long really tough set of hills might sideline a trip, or break something! Anybody have this issue, and hopefully a solution??
THANKS!!

i would check and see if the front condenser is clogged with bugs..

another thing is the pump might have failed (the blades inside rotted away, this is something that can happen)
Fans are weak. (yes the fans can spin but a reduced speed if one or two winding burned out)
Turn on the heaters and open the windows if the temp gets too high..(use the recirculate option in the front for the highest fan speed)

 

[Tim907356]

Well on the two fronts, the moog kit came in and I changed links and bushings this weekend. I was a little disappointed with the links. It was the same basic design with even lighter plastic parts! The failure was the interior metal rod though, so at least it’s done and not knocking around anymore. Loved those 10mm bushing bracket bolts! Wow they were tough to break loose!!
I’ve got two jugs of Prestone radiator flush in the coolant now for a few days. It should be ready to change mid-week. I decided to try this and the pressure wash first, but I will order a new transmission cooler. Has anyone re- mounted one of these in front of the lower grill? It would take some radiator heat away...

 

[Tim907356]

Is there a thermostat in the trans. cooler circuit already, on 2010 Yukon Denali? The tru-cool units warn not to use them below 32F without one.
Also, can you mount them upside down, with the fittings facing up?

 

[97audia4]

Is there a thermostat in the trans. cooler circuit already, on 2010 Yukon Denali? The tru-cool units warn not to use them below 32F without one.
Also, can you mount them upside down, with the fittings facing up?

You can keep the factory lines just need new fittings for the 40k.

I pull an enclosed 7x16 dual axle trailer with 2 race bikes and all the tools and camping gear for 3 days. On the way up state to NY its mostly a hill climb every 20 miles or so. I tow in manual mode and use 3rd and 4rth gear. The coolant temp will go up to about 220 to 230 but will go back down quickly. In heavy winds on a straight road to North Carolina it has done the same thing but will always go back down to 210 right after, almost as its cycling itself.