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misplacedyankee

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Hello all. Have a 99 Tahoe 2 door Sport I acquired a few months ago. Got a good deal on it - one owner car very well maintained. Was a local trade at my friends dealership. Looks like a time capsule even with 150K on it. Body and interior are in fantastic shape. Has a little chasis surface rust I intend to get worked off and treated, but no rust elsewhere. Friend at body shop should be able to do it.

Got the brakes in perfect working order and put on some new struts. One thing I notice when steering is it seems like the power steering works too hard. Steers fine, but feels "powered" at time - even like its pulsing the power to the wheel at certain speeds. I am used to driving a lot of German cars and its been a while since I have been back in the saddle of a tahoe so maybe thats normal. My question is - is it as easy as pulling a fuse to disable power steering? Have any of you done this? How would you tighten this up.

What are recommendations on brush guards. I want a black one to match the sport black flares (my sport is white). Preferences?

Rims - I was either going to get the ATX teflon ones or throw on some newer chevy silverado 18s on there. Any issues with either? Recommended 17 and 18 tire sizes for a non lift that will look aggressive? I assume the newer chevy 6 lugs are plug and play on the OBS.

Was thinking of a magnaflow exhaust - is this obnoxiously loud? Who carries the straight pipe model that flows out the back bumper like I have seen on some trucks?

My goal with the truck is to use it for a little off road to kayak, hunt, mnt bike etc as well as errands. Might do a slight lift as parts rust out down there and need replacement. Eventually give the truck to my son in a few years.

TIA!
 

Y2KpewterZ

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Hello all. Have a 99 Tahoe 2 door Sport I acquired a few months ago. Got a good deal on it - one owner car very well maintained. Was a local trade at my friends dealership. Looks like a time capsule even with 150K on it. Body and interior are in fantastic shape. Has a little chasis surface rust I intend to get worked off and treated, but no rust elsewhere. Friend at body shop should be able to do it.

Got the brakes in perfect working order and put on some new struts. One thing I notice when steering is it seems like the power steering works too hard. Steers fine, but feels "powered" at time - even like its pulsing the power to the wheel at certain speeds. I am used to driving a lot of German cars and its been a while since I have been back in the saddle of a tahoe so maybe thats normal. My question is - is it as easy as pulling a fuse to disable power steering? Have any of you done this? How would you tighten this up.

What are recommendations on brush guards. I want a black one to match the sport black flares (my sport is white). Preferences?

Rims - I was either going to get the ATX teflon ones or throw on some newer chevy silverado 18s on there. Any issues with either? Recommended 17 and 18 tire sizes for a non lift that will look aggressive? I assume the newer chevy 6 lugs are plug and play on the OBS.

Was thinking of a magnaflow exhaust - is this obnoxiously loud? Who carries the straight pipe model that flows out the back bumper like I have seen on some trucks?

My goal with the truck is to use it for a little off road to kayak, hunt, mnt bike etc as well as errands. Might do a slight lift as parts rust out down there and need replacement. Eventually give the truck to my son in a few years.

TIA!

No fuse to pull for power steering. Someone correct me if i am wrong, but i believe there is a "speed sensitive" sensor in the steering box, and this may be the cause for the "jerky" feeling. I wouldn't recommend driving one of these trucks without p/s. For a "tighter" steering feel, you may be able to upgrade to a jeep xj steering shaft, that eliminates the sloppyness in the factory rag joint. I know there are certain years this will work on, so ill wait until someone chimes in with a conformation.

I like the look of the factory Z71 brushguard. And stock 17s from a newer GM truck ftw.
551057_608652222496663_1789741791_n.jpg

Im running goodyear duratrac in a 285/70. No lift. Only rub inner lip of fender flare when off road. (May not rub at all, my old suburban cleared 285/70s since it didnt have fender flares) good tire, no complaints. At this stage in their life, less then 25%, theyre quite noisy.
 
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misplacedyankee

misplacedyankee

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No fuse to pull for power steering. Someone correct me if i am wrong, but i believe there is a "speed sensitive" sensor in the steering box, and this may be the cause for the "jerky" feeling. I
Im running goodyear duratrac in a 285/70. No lift. Only rub inner lip of fender flare when off road. (May not rub at all, my old suburban cleared 285/70s since it didnt have fender flares) good tire, no complaints. At this stage in their life, less then 25%, theyre quite noisy.

Nice looking wheels and tires. Will look into that. I will do some research on the speed sensitive sensor - that would make sense as to what I am feeling.

Thanks for the info!

---------- Post added at 10:55 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:44 AM ----------

Here is a pic of the truck - all stock right now (and without a bath):

picture.jpg

Planned mods:

Husky rubber mats (in)
Thule rack system and fairing (purchased)
OEM radio Ipod connector (purchased)
Frame surface rust treatment
Window Tint
New rims and tires
Brush Guard
Fog lights
Exhuast
New suspension parts (as things rust out)
 

rmodel65

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go to the junkyard and get the fitting the power steering hose screws into off of the pump buy a new pressure hose from autozone etc and install it in the truck no more speed sensitive steering. you will have full power steering at all times like the earlier model tahoe/yukons/silverados etc
 

kcb37

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You need to do some more reading.
What did you do to the brakes to get them in perfect working order and how often do you intend to do this?

Where is the strut that you replaced on your Tahoe?

Steering more then likely the EVO. Bumps pressure for easier steering in parking lots, low speed. High speed backs it off so the truck does not wander (highway speed) You can put a 96 pump/lines on it to get rid of it.

Brush guard any bolt on, will be a piece of junk, fully welded bumper/brush guard.

Rims and tires depends on what you want. I will tell you to stay stock 99% of the time.

Exhaust youtube can be your friend. (to a point) Out the back will direct the sound behind you. Drive beside a retaining wall you will hear it less then a 45 degree angle, or 90 degree angle. What you want to look for is an exhaust that does not have a drone. Sound level will be next.

If your replacing parts because they rust out and put a lift on at that time, you have bigger issues to worry about and this will be a truck that needs to go to the junk yard, not something your child should be driving. Or you for that matter.

To add, putting a lift on it. Think about it some.
Open the glove box. Does it have a G80 on the sticker? If so (if it has not been changed) you have a factory locker. Not bad really, not great if you beat on it.
You also have 4wd do you really need a lift?
You want to give it to your son. Think about him backing up.

Are you going to teach him how to back into a parking spot? Something no one can seem to do anymore. Shorter distance to the front bumper then rear, more visability over the hood then out the back.
Add a lift, he goes to wal mart will he see the kit who's head is level with the bumper or just under the window, who's parents don't care if they just run to the car?
 
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misplacedyankee

misplacedyankee

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You need to do some more reading.
What did you do to the brakes to get them in perfect working order and how often do you intend to do this?

Where is the strut that you replaced on your Tahoe?

Steering more then likely the EVO. Bumps pressure for easier steering in parking lots, low speed. High speed backs it off so the truck does not wander (highway speed) You can put a 96 pump/lines on it to get rid of it.

Brush guard any bolt on, will be a piece of junk, fully welded bumper/brush guard.

Rims and tires depends on what you want. I will tell you to stay stock 99% of the time.

Exhaust youtube can be your friend. (to a point) Out the back will direct the sound behind you. Drive beside a retaining wall you will hear it less then a 45 degree angle, or 90 degree angle. What you want to look for is an exhaust that does not have a drone. Sound level will be next.

If your replacing parts because they rust out and put a lift on at that time, you have bigger issues to worry about and this will be a truck that needs to go to the junk yard, not something your child should be driving. Or you for that matter.

To add, putting a lift on it. Think about it some.
Open the glove box. Does it have a G80 on the sticker? If so (if it has not been changed) you have a factory locker. Not bad really, not great if you beat on it.
You also have 4wd do you really need a lift?
You want to give it to your son. Think about him backing up.

Are you going to teach him how to back into a parking spot? Something no one can seem to do anymore. Shorter distance to the front bumper then rear, more visability over the hood then out the back.
Add a lift, he goes to wal mart will he see the kit who's head is level with the bumper or just under the window, who's parents don't care if they just run to the car?

Thanks for the info - I am doing more and more reading and appreciate your response. No G80 on there. It is 4WD. After doing a ton of reading I may stay clear of the lift. Doesn't make that much sense for what I need to do with it.

As for brakes they are all stock, but put in new lines, new master, rotors and pads on fronts. Night and day from day I picked it up. Should be good enough.

I will look into the 96 pump and lines for the steering. I just don't care for it.

I took it this am to my auto body guy to look at the rust. We re going to treat the frame rust (which is surface and minor) which is something he does with many here in NJ. The only component that has a lot of rust on it is the leaf springs. The struts were rusted out (I replaced the rear), but everything else is what you would expect. The body has no rust anywhere on it.

I will check into exhausts, lower on my list right now. I like the sound behind me. Saw a few gibson options, sound will be key. I don't want the neighborhood hating me that much.

As for my son, I hear you. We shall see how it goes and what comes of the truck. I will probably end up buying him something safer and smaller, but I was a responsible kid at 16 and would have been fine with a truck like this because I would have respected it and its size and if he can't back into a spot than he isn't driving any car of mine. That and he must learn to drive a stick...
 

kcb37

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Say you need to do a bit more reading because you do not have struts. 4 Shocks.

For the rear brakes you have to keep them turned out. The auto adjusters do work, when are cleaned or new. I take the adjuster off clean it, turn the shoes out until the drum won't go on, then slowly bring the shoes in until they do.
When you have a big gap the pedal drops more before you get a good feel.

As for your son, nothing wrong with that being his first car/truck. Just my opinion a lifted anything is not a good one to start with, and teaching him to back in is the better way to go. Just my opinion though.
Like the idea of learing to drive a stick. Want to do so with both of my kids, and a trailer.
 
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misplacedyankee

misplacedyankee

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Say you need to do a bit more reading because you do not have struts. 4 Shocks.

LOL. Yeah I know. I know they are shocks, the guy I got it from kept saying struts and it stuck in my head. My mechanic did that work plus the brakes.
 

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