HELP!! Engine Knock After Oil Change

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

OP
OP
A

autoworks856

TYF Newbie
Joined
Mar 9, 2010
Posts
15
Reaction score
0
ok, i started it up again, nd the noise is fading away more than it did a few days ago. its not as loud anymore, but still noticeable. and i also noticed it smoked a little bit, but stopped momentarily.

im going to put conventional valvoline 5W30 into it later and see if that makes any significant difference.
 

steamroller

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2010
Posts
361
Reaction score
1
Location
The South
It might be a leaking anti-drainback valve in the filter since it's 4 wheel drive and the filter is installed on it's side. Basically it's letting the oil run back out of the filter after you shut it off, just a thought.

As far as oil I'm a big fan of Pennzoil Platinum, my oil was alot darker the 1st couple oil changes with it. When I pulled the intake manifold for intake gaskets it was spotless on the inside, looked like a low mileage engine when I had 160k on it
 
OP
OP
A

autoworks856

TYF Newbie
Joined
Mar 9, 2010
Posts
15
Reaction score
0
so jus cange the filter? i figured it was that, because i had used a fram filter at first, nd now i used a carquest filter from my job
 

KrautBurner

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2010
Posts
256
Reaction score
1
Location
Bremerton, Wa
you can use SeaFoam in the oil prior to changing it,
it may help clear the oil ports (which may be clogged)

if you do,
go ahead and run the truck to full opperating temp for a few min.
then change the oil as usual.


good luck
 

steamroller

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2010
Posts
361
Reaction score
1
Location
The South
so jus cange the filter? i figured it was that, because i had used a fram filter at first, nd now i used a carquest filter from my job

It might be worth a shot to just swap the filter, I think the carquest are made by Wix though, they may be Purolator??? The Purolators have several smaller oval shaped holes in the top plate

Theres some pics in this thread over on bobistheoilguy of the Wix filters if youwanna compare....http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1231291&page=2

For what it's worth I use WIX filters or the AC Delco made by Wix, I usually have to dig around and open some boxes, because some of the latest AC filters are crap with the plastic E-core, same as the cheap STP oil filters

Another good read if your interested, though it may be dated info, you can usually tell what filter is what by the top plate and the drainback valve seal

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/reference.html
 
Last edited:

AtomicHoe094

Atomichoe094
Joined
Apr 30, 2009
Posts
8,179
Reaction score
7
Location
cleveland, OH
What do you mean plastic ecore?? hmm.. usually i never use fram or those cheap *****. My trucks oil pressure would go nuts with the fram filters, stepped it up to a mobil1 now its completely fine..
 

steamroller

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2010
Posts
361
Reaction score
1
Location
The South
Read that last link I posted, it was done on filters for Mopars but there are good pics in there to distinguish who makes whos filters....Some of the Delco's are from the 'performance' line of Champ Labs, some are the E-core, and some are made by WIX..... They may be fine but I won't use em

E-core STP, SuperTech, etc. plastic center cage, felt like filter caps
st3980026.jpg
 
OP
OP
A

autoworks856

TYF Newbie
Joined
Mar 9, 2010
Posts
15
Reaction score
0
im dropping a new motor in it, noise is still there.

would there be any problems dropping a motor from a 95 into my 98??
 

h0tr0d

Full Access Member
Joined
May 14, 2010
Posts
313
Reaction score
1
Location
Brenham, Tx.
The 98 is a Vortec motor and I think the 95 is still TBI. You'll definitely want to stick with the Vortec as that EFI is much better than the old TBI system.

Pull it out...throw it on a stand, flip it over, pull the oil pan and yank the crank out when you can. My money is on a spun crank bearing...which is cheaper to repair than to drop $1400 on a reman motor. You could have the whole thing back together in 8 hours worth of work and however long the machine shop takes to polish the journals on the crank and give you the new bearings.
 
Top