Hey Guys. New member here.

[NorCalBryan]

How are you trying to link them in?

Ummm, I just used the img tags, I wasn't trying to link them, just display them in the message. They work now, but they didn't work this morning. Can you see the pics?

 

[BattelWagun]

I can see them just fine, and I do agree. It's debadging time! It'll give your rig so much of a cleaner look.

 

[07Burb]

I can't see them but then again I'm at work and they tend to filter out some photo sites for some reason so I'm not a good guinea pig for that I was gonna offer up some help to ya but looks like you got it covered

 

[NorCalBryan]

I can see them just fine, and I do agree. It's debadging time! It'll give your rig so much of a cleaner look.

Are there any holes behind the black trim pieces on the doors? I'd love to remove them, but I don't want to have to do any body work.

 

[07Burb]

Nope, no holes. Just apply heat to the strip (to warm up the adhesive behind), use fishing line (or some tool to get behind the molding that won't scratch your paint) to get behind the molding and go to town. Once the molding is off use a 3M "eraser" wheel (can be found at most auto part stores) to get the adhesive off and then you'll want to polish and buff there areas where the molding was at.

 

[NorCalBryan]

Wow, thanks for the info. My only other concern would be that the rest of the paint on the vehicle has faded...but I guess with white, it won't be much of a difference

 

[07Burb]

Wow, thanks for the info. My only other concern would be that the rest of the paint on the vehicle has faded...but I guess with white, it won't be much of a difference

Yeah, with white you probably won't notice too much fading. One thing to be concerned about, though, is possible paint peeling from behind due to the age of the vehicle and how long the molding has been on there. You can counteract this my making sure you apply plenty of heat so that it's easier to get off and take it off slowly (as opposed to just ripping it off ). So just take your time and be patient and you should be fine. It's made even easier if it's a warm day and you do it out in the sun.

 

[NorCalBryan]

Great, now you've got me thinking all kinds of crazy. The paint is REALLY dirty in some parts of the truck as well. What kind of buffer/power tool should I buy that would work both with the eraser wheel, and polishing pads?

 

[07Burb]

The eraser wheel will just work with your cordless drill so no special tools there. As far as the best polisher to work with the pads you may want to click on over to the detail section and poke around. I know that Porter Cable is a very good brand but I'm not sure of exact model #'s to point you to. In all honesty, I've always been able to hand detail the areas and been fine I've never demolded a vehicle more than 5 years old unless I was also repainting it so I've never had to worry about getting that serious and buying any kind of buffing tools Depending on how much the buffer/polisher is it might be more cost effective to pay someone to give you a good detail after the demolding unless you plan on using the tool quite a bit on down the road. Know what I mean?

 

[AtomicHoe094]

baking up to page 4, GM has made some sick ass factory rims before.. the tahoe limiteds being 1 of those that i love.. soo ill take my stock rims all day before i buy a set of chrome "donks" or whatever you call em..