How .. check this please

[SunlitComet]

If the words corolla and alternator gave it away as you claim the second post here wouldn't have been asking what he is looking at.

you sure? he is from texas you know. i don't think they know what those word are either.

---------- Post added at 08:31 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:09 AM ----------

What I want is to know is what it can be used for and why does the previous owner used it to connect the dual battery setup

I already know what it is the use is what i am wondering about

the previous owner was looking to probably create a rigged battery isolator using the diodes on the diode body you have there. he had the right idea but a seriously bad application. he probably could not get the real thing or did not want to spend the money. it was a very bad way to attempt it. are you wanting to keep the dual battery setup but isolated or paralleled? as i mentioned before it would allow the draining of one battery that say would power equipment while the vehicle is off while making sure the starting battery is not drained. the secondary battery can be used for winches, car stereo, lighting, inverters etc. in any case the setup you have there is dangerous and should be redone properly.

 

[retorq]

What I want is to know is what it can be used for and why does the previous owner used it to connect the dual battery setup

I already know what it is the use is what iam wondering about

A recifier is a one way bridge, that will convert AC to DC power, in this case he's just using it as the one way bridge part of it. Not a "bad" solution, the execution of it could have been alot better.

---------- Post added at 08:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:38 AM ----------

you sure? he is from texas you know. i don't think they know what those word are either.

I'm not sure of anything around here.

 

[saif najd]

you sure? he is from texas you know. i don't think they know what those word are either.

---------- Post added at 08:31 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:09 AM ----------



the previous owner was looking to probably create a rigged battery isolator using the diodes on the diode body you have there. he had the right idea but a seriously bad application. he probably could not get the real thing or did not want to spend the money. it was a very bad way to attempt it. are you wanting to keep the dual battery setup but isolated or paralleled? as i mentioned before it would allow the draining of one battery that say would power equipment while the vehicle is off while making sure the starting battery is not drained. the secondary battery can be used for winches, car stereo, lighting, inverters etc. in any case the setup you have there is dangerous and should be redone properly.

Thanx for clearing the what was going on, actually taking that thing off was wasn't hard as trying to figure what it is it was covered 3 times by some plastic bag and the plastic melted on this thing so it was really hard and time consuming just to get to the bottom of it.

Ok, know what I did was connecting battery B (the aux) to battery A (the main) by one cable directly and connected the efans to the B battery.

My plan now is to connect a boat switch ubder the front bumper to isolate B battery when ever I need it for camping use and to connected back to batt A

But I want to add a fuse between them what do you recommend for amber (each battery is 85A)? Can I use 100A fuse?

 

[SunlitComet]

lucky you did not have a fire yet.
a decent battery isolator will do the switching for you automatically. will drain each individually but will charge both if isolator sees a positive charge going into it. question is do you want automatic, manual, ignition switch controlled(factory actually installed that for dual batt orders when manufactured), or automatic with optional battery bus tie to have an aux jump start a dead main) as well as other options. as far as fusing it depends on who you use and isolate the batteries. each battery is not 85a. you probably mean 850cca capacity. i need to know how you for sure want to isolate and charge them before i can recommend fusing which will be likely in the 200+a range for what you are thinking now. simple isolaor kits can be had for under a hundred but better ones are had for about $200-250 that have more safety, capacity and options built-in.

 

[saif najd]

lucky you did not have a fire yet.
a decent battery isolator will do the switching for you automatically. will drain each individually but will charge both if isolator sees a positive charge going into it. question is do you want automatic, manual, ignition switch controlled(factory actually installed that for dual batt orders when manufactured), or automatic with optional battery bus tie to have an aux jump start a dead main) as well as other options. as far as fusing it depends on who you use and isolate the batteries. each battery is not 85a. you probably mean 850cca capacity. i need to know how you for sure want to isolate and charge them before i can recommend fusing which will be likely in the 200+a range for what you are thinking now. simple isolaor kits can be had for under a hundred but better ones are had for about $200-250 that have more safety, capacity and options built-in.

Ok, so first thing tomorrow morning is to disconnect the B battery and wait for your plan.

What I need is to use both of them, I noticed the engine start is great and the overall battery and electricity is great. And later on when the engine is off I need power from battery B for camping without using both of thim and if there is a way to do it automatic will be great

 

[SunlitComet]

so that sounds like a basic isolation setup. do you need or want the option for a charged aux battery to jump start the main battery? for example if some how the headlights got left on or something. also do you want to charge the aux as long as alt is turning or only have it charged once the module is sure the main is charged first? and finally do you have plans to put a winch on your vehicle or when camping you just need juice for lights and various 12v accessories?

 

[saif najd]

so that sounds like a basic isolation setup. do you need or want the option for a charged aux battery to jump start the main battery? for example if some how the headlights got left on or something. also do you want to charge the aux as long as alt is turning or only have it charged once the module is sure the main is charged first? and finally do you have plans to put a winch on your vehicle or when camping you just need juice for lights and various 12v accessories?

Regarding the jump start yes please,

And yes I need the second battery to be charge all the time because I will connect all the efan and other accessories.

 

[SunlitComet]

i forgot to ask are they the same type of batteries or do you have a starting battery and a deep-cycle battery?

 

[saif najd]

i forgot to ask are they the same type of batteries or do you have a starting battery and a deep-cycle battery?

The same I don't know from where I will get the deep ones every one I ask sems amazed about the deep cycle function!

 

[SunlitComet]

okay it is important that they are both lead acid or both gel type that kinda thing. one option is a complete kit 40121 from painless wiring costs about $320USD but i am not sure of its export status. it also appears that the included cables are five feet. and i think that will be a few feet to short unless you stick the relay somewhere on the fan shroud. it would operate as explained here: http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=40121

the other option i would recommend and is my personal favorite of sorts is Blue Sea #7622 ml-acr automatic charging relay with a manual control added on $180. now keep in mine this is a marine product designed for marine use but it applications can be used elsewhere too. it works as described here: http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/990180180.pdf note the diagrams shown are not what you would used. i would draw out the diagram for you. does not include battery cable so you will make your own. good so you can get that custom wire fit. both of theses device are automated normally with a switch which can be dash mount to control a jump start function. the blue sea unit takes that even farther by giving you the manual witch option to tie the 2 batt banks together, isolate them, prevent the dash switch from control( which has status lights built it) or turn off the device completely. it also has an advanced way of battery charging as well. in addition to the normal alt charging. you can have the vehicle turned off just sitting there with weak battery that we will say at best gets you dim lights or something. you can put a charger on either battery and if the relay senses a positive power input to it will let the power pass to the other as well. it will disconnect them if the charger is removed based on the deign specs.

both of these items take up little space under the hood.

the cheapest route is to use a basic diode isolator and a solenoid for the jump starting option. the isolator and decent solenoid would cost from $100-150. again you will make your own cabling. the solenoid takes little space but the isolator needs more like a 6" square block kind of. they would look like this:


again i would draw out your diagram or you. the factory had an option that just used the solenoid and any time ignition was on the batteries were tied together. you will want to fuse things of course after you decide on the path you want.

lastly you really need to have the efan on the main battery. if you took them off the main so if main died the fans would still run remember the alt is still pushing juice. and if both of those failed the engine can not run so you would not need them anyway. so again put them on the main bank.