How do you diagnose a power window motor problem?

[withac]

Okay, sorry if this something like a double post, but when you ask a somewhat new question at the end of a thread it can get missed.

In my post asking about a power window problem it was suggested the motor may be going out. Does anyone have some step by step directions on how to test it to make sure? I would imagine it's something I could replace myself but no sense picking up a motor if that's not the problem.

 

[scott99zx6r]

Pull the door panel and find the wires to the motor. With a test light probe 1 wire then the other. 1 should be power while the other is ground while operating the switch and opposite for the other direction. If that's ok and the window doesnt move, smack the motor. If the switch is working and commanding the motor both ways, the motor is bad. If your wire readings are not correct you have a switch or wiring problem.

 

[withac]

Thanks. I borrowed a multi meter that I don't know how to run but I do have a test light prob. Prolly still not a bad idea to actually buy myself a multimeter then I'd have one and the instructions on how to use it.

 

[Nickleahy23]

are you talking about yuor rear windows? my pass rear window doesnt work, but i can hear the switch clicking and the motor gets hot, and my volts drop when i try to use it..the rear drivers window works most of the time but sometimes it does the samething..if its not working and i try to hit both windows my volts drop to 12.

 

[withac]

drivers door

 

[withac]

HELP!

Okay, I need to hook a trailer brake up so I’m looking under the dash to see how to do it and I notice a factory wire bundle that is out of place. It looks like when the park brake is released it has been pinching this. I look closer and a white wire is cut all the way through and an orange one is skinned. They go to a plug in the dash side fuse panel labeled Retained Accessory Power Relay, I figure I have the solution to my drivers side power door lock/power window issue. I splice the white wire back to together, nothing. I cut the orange one where the insulation was worn off and splice it back together. Nothing. I check the fuses that have lock in the name nothing. There are several power door lock relays. There is only one Power Window Circuit Breaker. I figure since all the other windows work it can’t be the circuit breaker.

Okay, I pop the door panel. I pull the wire plug from the power window motor and test it with my multimeter 0.00 when I push the window button. I pull the plug from the door lock actuator and test it. If the lock button is cycled back and forth it might jump to .93 but if I just click it one way then the other I get .03

So, it looks like power isn’t getting to the window motor or the door lock actuator. I had a cut wire but fixed it and nothing. I can find no blown fuses. Could the wire have shorted and blown a relay? If so, how do you tell, I can’t even pull them out of the panel. Any ideas, I’m dyin’ here.

 

[withac]

Bump

 

[oneradride]

Checked all the fuses under the hood? Check the power coming to and going out of the actuator door switch. If you are getting ‘some’ current it may just be a bad relay. Move the actuator switch back and forth, listen and feel for the click to find the correct relay. If it’s totally smoked it won’t oven click….

 

[withac]

Checked all the fuses under the hood? Check the power coming to and going out of the actuator door switch. If you are getting ‘some’ current it may just be a bad relay. Move the actuator switch back and forth, listen and feel for the click to find the correct relay. If it’s totally smoked it won’t oven click….

Thanks man.

---------- Post added at 11:07 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:29 AM ----------

I just checked the relays in the side dash panel. As far as I can tell they are working, although the fact that I got a .03 read on the meter when I tested the plug going into the actuator would suggest that current is getting through, just not enough, which would be a relay, right? Wouldn't the fuses under the hood be more universal than just the drivers side window and door? Thing is, the main door lock switch on the drivers door as well as the keyless entry on the key fob are functional for the other three doors, I can lock and unlock everything except the drivers door. When the window stopped working it was a hit and miss thing. I get 0 when I test the window motor plug. That's why I was sure when I found the cut wire that I had my solution. I still wonder if it has something to do with that I just can't figure it out.

 

[withac]

Okay, the power window/door lock threads have kinda run together and I think they are related, so since this looks like the thread that is getting looked at more I'll update here.

In the dash side fuse panel there is a fuse for power mirrors and door locks. The mirrors work so I didn’t even pull it. There are two fuses marked Power Door Locks, both are fine. There are relays labeled DRV UNLOCK = Power Door Lock Relay, LOCK = Power Door Lock Relay, L DOOR = Power Door Lock Relay and UNLOCK = Power Door Lock Relay. It’s hard to separate the sound but I think I can feel each one click when I hit the door locks. There is also a relay labeled RAP #1 = Retained Accessory Power Relay. I’m not sure what this runs but I can’t feel anything from it when I hit the locks or the power windows.

Ideas?

---------- Post added at 01:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:29 PM ----------

Oh yeah, I tugged and pulled on that relay and it won't budge, how do you get them out?

---------- Post added at 01:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:32 PM ----------

I'm still thinking out loud here. Would a relay affect more than just the drivers side power window and the drivers power door lock? Seems rather specific to me, would that suggest another wire cut somewhere?