How far to drop

[Jeff B]

Ok guys many of you have your trucks dropped. What method works the best and how far to drop it. The truck sits now with the back end about 2" higher. I use this thing in the snow so slammed is not an option. New rear springs with a 3" drop and shock extenders? I'm cheep !!! Can I get an 1-2" out of the stock torsion bars ? What say yee !!! Pics of truck with the new wheels

 

[NathanJax]

you need a 2/3-4 from belltech.

2" drop spindles and then you can use your stock keys to go up/down a hair.

It uses 4" springs in the rear, but comes with 1" cups so if you want, you cna only go down 3" for the rear

 

[NeverSatisfied]

you need a 2/3-4 from belltech.

2" drop spindles and then you can use your stock keys to go up/down a hair.

It uses 4" springs in the rear, but comes with 1" cups so if you want, you cna only go down 3" for the rear

Exactly what this gentleman said

 

[NORCAL SS]

here you go on the kit
http://www.tbssowners.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=86

if you have any questions just ask. Also in rear if you do towing id get the airlift helper bags part number 60742

 

[Jeff B]

Ok if that will do the trick, how much should I pay for such a kit and were to buy it. From what I read on the forum and youtube drop spindles keeps all the stock geometry. No need for shocks and end links. What happens with the rear sway bar links when you come down do they need to be shorter too. I guess you guy are runnin modified shocks instead of extenders. Lastly I hope this combo will not lower my truck as far as both of you guys. Not to say I dont like the look because I do but we get lots of snow here and I would be plowing with my airdam

---------- Post added at 11:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:21 PM ----------

I guess I dont type fast enough LOL well that answers the technical $$$$$$ part of the question.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

Ok if that will do the trick, how much should I pay for such a kit and were to buy it. From what I read on the forum and youtube drop spindles keeps all the stock geometry. No need for shocks and end links. What happens with the rear sway bar links when you come down do they need to be shorter too. I guess you guy are runnin modified shocks instead of extenders. Lastly I hope this combo will not lower my truck as far as both of you guys. Not to say I dont like the look because I do but we get lots of snow here and I would be plowing with my airdam

---------- Post added at 11:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:21 PM ----------

I guess I dont type fast enough LOL well that answers the technical $$$$$$ part of the question.

With that kit you will get the drop you want but won't be close to me or Nathan. I have a 5/7 overall and Nathan is bagged

 

[NathanJax]

Ok if that will do the trick, how much should I pay for such a kit and were to buy it.

From the guy that posted just above you, Tony (NorcalSS)

From what I read on the forum and youtube drop spindles keeps all the stock geometry. No need for shocks and end links.

For the front, you can keep the same shocks, locations, etc. For the rear you want the DJM kit.

What happens with the rear sway bar links when you come down do they need to be shorter too.

The rear DJM kit provides shorter links as well as drop strut brackets to keep the shock distance the same

I guess you guy are runnin modified shocks instead of extenders.

I prefer extenders to keep great shocks and same travel distance

Lastly I hope this combo will not lower my truck as far as both of you guys. Not to say I dont like the look because I do but we get lots of snow here and I would be plowing with my airdam

I'm bagged, so no... lol. There are pics of NBS trucks on 2/3's around TYF

 

[Jeff B]

Lastly and this will be it for tonight. This thing has 20's with a +18 and the wheels have lots of room (they do not hit) however I do notice that they hang close or out of the wheel well just a bit will this present a problem

 

[NORCAL SS]

in front spindles will do the trick

in rear i always run extenders with 3 or more inch drop even with shorter shocks. The angle of the shocks without them is horrible

Also 3 or more inches lower in rear you will see the swaybar endlinks are pointing down to the ground which the shorter djm links i spoke about will fix

then last but not least cutting the bracket off the frame in the rear. This will give FULL travel in rear and not have that bottomed out feeling when you hit a dip.

im looking at your pics and most id go is 2 inches in front your tires stick past hte fenderwells looks like.

 

[Jeff B]

Good morning thanks for all this good info. I just measured up the truck the back is 36 3/4" and the front is 35" the tire does hang out a 1/4 as I ran a straightedge on it. That could be my fault I didnt know if I should have gone with the +18 or the +35 wheels. The wheel company rep suggested the +18. This is exactly why I didnt want to drop the front hard. If I could squeeze going down 1" with the torsion bar and 3" rear springs things would look much better. I have an alignment machine at work so that is not a problem, I just dont know how much of a drop you can get from those keys at max ? If I can pull my caster and camber in this may be all it needs to suit my liking