Kenny D
Full Access Member
Same with mine, but I got the lifetime warranty. You know, just in case....
How to: 4WD Driver Side motor mount replacement w/o diff removal (quick write-up)
- Thread starter NGAneer
- Start date
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Meccanoble
Full Access Member
Just wanted to mention something about instructions below:
7) Now comes the fun park, getting to the engine-side bolts. FRONT BOLTS: I removed the front skid plate (four 15mm bolts) and set it aside. I could now almost it up in the engine bay between the motor and the fans. I tried using this as my access point for the front, engine-side bolts but it proved to be too much to keep a ratchet on the bolt. So I got out eh step stool and laid over the radiator support and loosened the bolts from the top by going down behind the alternator bracket, underneath the exhaust manifold. Once the bolts break loose you should be able to remove them by hand. These are 15mm bolts by the way. I ended up using a 15mm deep socket, 3”extension and a 3/8 drive ratchet to loosen them and the used a 15mm shallow socket at the 3” extension to remove them with my hand.
8) REAR BOLTS: Remove the straps from the front u-joint of the front drive shaft (four 13mm bolts IIRC). Make sure your truck is in 2WD so you can spin the driveshaft by hand. I then had to use a pry bar to get the front driveshaft out of the yoke on the differential, I then slid the driveshaft over towards the engine to give me more clearance between the driveshaft and exhaust. This is the hole I used to get to the two rear bolts on the engine side. I used a the same combination for the front bolts on the rears as well.
I didnt have to remove drive shaft to get to those rear bolts. I'm a 6spd 4WD and we just removed the fender cover and reached all the way through. Its definitely hard because even the front bolts from the position in #7, you can see the bolts pretty well but its just hard to get your body in the position to get to them, very frustrating.
7) Now comes the fun park, getting to the engine-side bolts. FRONT BOLTS: I removed the front skid plate (four 15mm bolts) and set it aside. I could now almost it up in the engine bay between the motor and the fans. I tried using this as my access point for the front, engine-side bolts but it proved to be too much to keep a ratchet on the bolt. So I got out eh step stool and laid over the radiator support and loosened the bolts from the top by going down behind the alternator bracket, underneath the exhaust manifold. Once the bolts break loose you should be able to remove them by hand. These are 15mm bolts by the way. I ended up using a 15mm deep socket, 3”extension and a 3/8 drive ratchet to loosen them and the used a 15mm shallow socket at the 3” extension to remove them with my hand.
8) REAR BOLTS: Remove the straps from the front u-joint of the front drive shaft (four 13mm bolts IIRC). Make sure your truck is in 2WD so you can spin the driveshaft by hand. I then had to use a pry bar to get the front driveshaft out of the yoke on the differential, I then slid the driveshaft over towards the engine to give me more clearance between the driveshaft and exhaust. This is the hole I used to get to the two rear bolts on the engine side. I used a the same combination for the front bolts on the rears as well.
I didnt have to remove drive shaft to get to those rear bolts. I'm a 6spd 4WD and we just removed the fender cover and reached all the way through. Its definitely hard because even the front bolts from the position in #7, you can see the bolts pretty well but its just hard to get your body in the position to get to them, very frustrating.
I'm glad it worked for you. I tried and my big head and fat self couldn't do it.
I should added a disclaimer about fatness and big head-itude
