How to get 700hp (2017 Denali)

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GONMAD510

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So I have a little delay in getting the dyno numbers. After the heads were torqued down for 5 days with new ARP studs, 1 of the studs snapped and shot out into a wall. They did not hear it snap but they did notice one of them was missing when they went to put the valve covers on. They were not over torqued either. It snapped right at the point where the threads started.IMG_0256003.jpg
 

Rocket Man

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So I have a little delay in getting the dyno numbers. After the heads were torqued down for 5 days with new ARP studs, 1 of the studs snapped and shot out into a wall. They did not hear it snap but they did notice one of them was missing when they went to put the valve covers on. They were not over torqued either. It snapped right at the point where the threads started.View attachment 305181
I have never heard of an ARP bolt breaking. Do you know if the shop followed ARP’s install instructions or the OEM ones. I know their stuff is spec’d for different torque values and a lot of it needs ARP’s special thread compounds. Its possible they were counterfeit bolts also. Regardless, that sucks.
 

randeez

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So I have a little delay in getting the dyno numbers. After the heads were torqued down for 5 days with new ARP studs, 1 of the studs snapped and shot out into a wall. They did not hear it snap but they did notice one of them was missing when they went to put the valve covers on. They were not over torqued either. It snapped right at the point where the threads started.View attachment 305181
is the rest of it in the block still? or were they able to get it out
 

GONMAD510

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I have never heard of an ARP bolt breaking. Do you know if the shop followed ARP’s install instructions or the OEM ones. I know their stuff is spec’d for different torque values and a lot of it needs ARP’s special thread compounds. Its possible they were counterfeit bolts also. Regardless, that sucks.
Yes they did follow their instructions. They use ARP for everything.
 

GONMAD510

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is the rest of it in the block still? or were they able to get it out
Yes the other part is still in the block. They had some special tooling made to hold the drill bit straight in the hole so they can drill right in the center. It is broke off 1.5" down in the hole where the threads start in the block.
 

Rocket Man

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Yes they did follow their instructions. They use ARP for everything.
Probably water or oil in the hole then. Or somebody just fkd up. Hope they were able to get the broken stud out?
Edit: just read the updated post, hope they get it out.
 

GONMAD510

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Well finally on the dyno. Machine shop ******* up my block trying to get the broken stud out. Ended up with an LT4 in the tahoe. Win Win for me since the internals are better than the ones in the L86. Here is a dyno pull at 12PSI. Made 660RWHP and 661 RWTQ. Going to put some ethanol in it and see what it does. Was trying to attach a short video of the dyno run but I can't do it.
 

fozzi58

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Nice. About waiting for my street tune from BBP so I can get my new whipple running at max power. Only a 5.3 for me but them tires dont hook at all under 40mph. I'm kinda scared to turn off the traction control. The rear end has gotten awfully squirrely on me eve at 25 or 30 mph
 

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