how to identify transfer cases at risk for "pump rub" ?

[Kirth Gersen]

I've been shopping for a MY 2004-06, K2500 Suburban, and have recently learned about the transfer case "pump rub" problem.
Is there any particular case or cases that suffers from "pump rub" failures?

This webpage, http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/1210-8l-gm-transfer-case-pump-rub-repair , claims transfer case models 136, 146, 246, 261, 261HD, 263HD, 263XHD, and 261XHD are all at risk.

Are the potentially defective transfer cases only on certain engine/drivetrain combinations, or are ALL the transfer cases at risk?
For example, the K2500s seem to be either 6.0L with 4L80E, or 8.1L with 4L85E.
Are there any particular RPO codes to avoid?

 

[retiredsparky]

You could call these folks:

http://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/merchant-automotive/transfer-case-pump-upgrade.htm?popup=n

They sell an inexpensive kit. You can also buy new oil from them.

 

[Kirth Gersen]

Well, I found a few cross references of transfer cases used on specific car models & drive trains ... and it seems to be ALL 4WD GMT800 vehicles are at risk :-(
eg,
http://www.fourwheeler.com/features/1406-transfer-case-spotters-guide/
http://www.americanpowertrainwarehouse.com/transfer-case-by-make-model/

Even if I find an ultralow mileage K2500, seems I'd have to spend another $1000+ getting case removed & upgraded to prevent the pump rub failure. I don't want to tackle this myself.

Or, I may just stick with a 2WD/C2500 Suburban and replace the "Gov-Bomb" rear diff w/ an Eaton Tru-Trac, and totally avoid the headache.

 

[Chubbs]

Installing the upgraded oil pump plate isn't a tremendous task. Nobody will disagree that removing and splitting the transfer case is a large job but it's all nuts & bolts. The replacement part isn't but $30 or something; it's really just your time and patience that is invested.

I wouldn't let it deter my purchase of an 800-category 4x4: just inspect the TC once a month for a leak around the rear output housing. When & if you catch the oil pump plate biting through the housing, you then drop the TC, JB weld the hole/crack and replace the plate. Like I said, it's just a number of bolts & a large C-clip to open the case. There are no tolerances or pressed-fit pieces to deal with. I believe there are 1 or 2 tutorials on YouTube to assist with the DIY. I am subscribed to at least 2 members with said tutorial so I have that info available to you

Even if you chose to replace the pump plate as prevent maint, this is something you can do in 1-weekend with basic hand tools. You can find the literature using Google so as to prep yourself and save any useful information that can further assist you when the time comes. I've taken on much bigger jobs after gaining confidence through research. You will find that you can do just about anything given enough time & money. Don't forget it's just nuts & bolts concerning this application.