Hydroboost questions...

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99Yuk

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EDIT: Never mind...I got it.
EDIT2: hehe.. what about ABS, after bleeding the ABS pump, does hydroboost affect ABs functions?

Other than whipple2dr, does anyone else here run hydroboost?
 
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puckhead

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Never heard of it. Is it better than regular fluid? or am i just way off lol
 

puckhead

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Interesting read, thanks for the link! If I had any more mods or maybe towed, i might do it
 

95TwinTT

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I have been running the Hydro Boost for several years. It is just a way to increase the mechanical advantage over vacuum boost. Should not have any affect on the ABS..

What kind of trouble are you having?
 
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99Yuk

99Yuk

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I have been running the Hydro Boost for several years. It is just a way to increase the mechanical advantage over vacuum boost. Should not have any affect on the ABS..

What kind of trouble are you having?

I don't have that mod installed, it was suggested in the 1ton caliper thread. I had heard the word here and there, so today I decided to investigate it a bit more.

Thanks for clearing up the ABS question.
If I understand it correctly, because were making changes above the ABS pump, then it will have to cycle a few times to bleed the air out of it. But that's the only thing to worry about with it.

And I think that Hydro boost is using the power steering pump to provide the braking power instead of vacumn. It looked like the OBS 2500 pickups had this installed as an option?

If I wanted to do this, the only good HB thread on here was from wipple2dr, and jeepers, it looked complicated. I think that a fella could homebrew this like he did, or just buy a kit.

I guess, I'm trying to figure what parts would have to be swapped out to make this work.
 

95TwinTT

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The diesel trucks have used them for a long time, since diesels have no vacuum. I had my first one in a 1979 diesel half ton Chev Pickup.

As far as the ABS goes, yes it must be part of the bleeding procedure. The ABS unit itself works the same with the added pressure. It just thinks you are pushing harder on the pedal.

I bought the kit for mine. I know the master cylinder had to be swapped because of the bore size. Just to know that it is important to have the correct master cylinder to get the best results.

The plumbing is straight forward. It is just a matter of re-routing the power steering fluid. If you are on a budget, it would be best to find a “donor truck”.

I was looking at increasing brake performance and realized that squeezing the disc harder is the same as going to a larger disk. Plus the fact that I was running forced induction, not as much vacuum available. So I have stock brakes with just the hydro boost added. It’s all I need and then some.
 
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99Yuk

99Yuk

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Perfect! You've so answered my questions.

So if a fella wanted to start looking for parts, he would start by looking for a diesel OBS truck, then grab all the parts that you can find from it. Or I can start pricing out new parts from partssource. But at least I know what direction to head in.

Thanks!
 

95TwinTT

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A word of caution……………

I don’t read about concerns of caliper displacement. When these systems come from the factory (with thousands of engineers making caculations), they are matched with master cylinder and caliper and rear brake capacity. So the right amount of brake fluid feeds from the master cylinder to satisfy the brake fluid displacement. It only makes sense.

If there is mixing and matching, going on with ¾ ton calipers and 1 ton calipers, I would think those fluid capacities must be recognized in order to insure the pedal travel will be proper. Yes, No?

I would suggest asking more questions of the experts before bolting it all together.

I have stock front calipers and drums in the rear and I can easily lock them up and send the ABS into the famous pulsing emergency stop. I don’t know how it could stop any faster than that. Just my humble opinion.

Just seems like I read about a lot of folks mixing all kinds of odd combinations of brake components and I can’t believe they are getting their monies worth.
 

AtomicHoe094

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Del, did you need to change out your factory brake pedal when you did the swap? Curious since ive heard the hole sizes are different?
 

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