Idea On Cost To Replace 5.3 Engine? 2015 Yukon XL

[petethepug]

Step back, take breath and think like a dealership owner. If they know you’ve lawyer’s up, they’ll respect you and know you’re not a chump.

As a dealer I’d either be recognizing liability, responsibility or both. The best solution is to propose a no fault settlement. Try to get $6k back on the purchase price “toward a new motor” or let them know the PDI was not done or done competently. 200k truck on trade in with no compression check, K’mawn.

You’ll either get out of the purchase dilemma or have enuf for a little swaparoo on the motor that’ll increase its value.

2015 GM switched to direct injection. You’ll need a 6.0L preloved motor from a 15-20 3/4 or 1T pick up. They have no AFM, usually e85 and a complete drop into the truck. All that has to be done is have the AFM turned off in the truck.

You get a bigger, better motor that’s bulldog tough, buh bye AFM the value of the truck goes up as it an OEM factory upgrade and you get the last laugh.

If you’re concerned about the trans, when that time comes there’s a cat that is now replacing the factory 6 & 8 speed trans with factory 10 speed units. Again, increase in perf, add about 5-6 more mpg and a keeper, no worry truck good for another 100-200k miles you could flip in a heartbeat

10l90 swap into a l83 w/6l80e?

Like the title states, can you swap a 10l90e into a 18' sierra 1500 4x4 with a 6l80e? Thank's yall!

www.gm-trucks.com

 

[RogerK]

I bought a 2015 GMC Yukon XL with 207k miles and drove it four times for less than 100 miles and the check engine light started flashing last Tuesday night. It was poring down rain and I was headed up about an incline on i75. The check engine light started flashing and I didn’t notice anything different in the way the car was driving. I pulled over into a gas station and plugged in my ODB reader. No Check engine light remained on but the reader showed a P0307 fault for a misfire in cylinder 7. Drove it another mile home and it was pouring rain. I was headed down an incline and had it in the RWD/4 wd flex mode where it’ll switch in and out of. It was lurching and shaking when I slowed down. I put it in park and the engine was sputtering. I shut it off and called this mechanic that I had booked to replace the struts and shocks. I told him what was going on and he said to just drive it to the shop about four or five miles away. The car drove rough but wasn’t terrible and seemed better at 40 plus mph of less noticeable.

The mechanic couldn’t get to it until Friday and pulled the spatk plug and it was soaked in fuel. I’m my head I figured maybe the injector stuck but I’m not a mechanic in the slightest degree. I brought new spark plugs and wires and same constant misfire. He did a compression test and it was at 0 psi in #7. He said I need a motor as with 207k he said it’s not worth trying to tear apart And fix.

I’m really upset at myself for not getting it checked out more thorough. I work at a dealership and took it on trade in. I always liked these and my I wanted something that looked a little fresher then my 2006 Infiniti. The used car manager said I could have one of the mechanics check it out before I bought it as he was going to charge me $381 for an inspection through the dealership. I went to a mechanic that had that same generation Yukon and figured he’d be the best to check it out. I paid him $50 to do a quick inspection. He said I needed to replace shocks and struts but it seemed solid otherwise. I signed an As Is form and know I’m SOL but the used car manager is a “friend” and I’ve worked at the dealership 13 years so I thought I’d at least let him know what happened. He shamed me and told me I was on my own. I asked if he could let me trade it towards something else and told me he wouldn’t give me anything unless I replaced the motor. I’ve sold many of cars that blew up soon after the owner bought it even as Id and we always either took back the car or fixed it or let them buy something else. I know I’m not owed anything but I’m just really hurt that I’m just getting the middle finger here.

But I don’t know what to do and kind of just want to fold this terrible hand before I lose more and more money. I don’t think I could ever trust this car even if I put a new motor in it. Im just worried the transmission will go next. How much should I expect to pay to replace the motor?

Someone told me to take it to the gmc dealer and get a legit diagnosis but I really don’t want to just keep losing money when I’ve realized that 207k miles just is more the. Most cars last. I redid all the wheels and made it look really good but I should have checked it out further before going that. I’ve got a good looking 3 ton paper weight I guess

Thank you for reading and I value and appreciate any knowledge and/or advice here.

It is most likely a lifter collapse om # 7. Common occurence. $12K to $13K for new engine.

 

[petethepug]

I like this. Propose new 5.3L for 12-$13k or the preloved 6.0L w/ no AFM (they install) for 7-$10k.


Insert Buzzer sound here …

L93 5.3L is direct injection but …

L96 6.0L never went to direct injection, it uses multi port injection all the way to 2020 until GM discontinued it

L96 swap in 2014 L83 Silverado Truck

After 270,000 miles (with 80,000 miles being cam swapped and supercharged) my L83 in my 2014 Silverado died. Looks like a broken ring land on cylinder 6. I am seriously considering going backwards here and swapping an L96 into this truck. My plan would be to source the E78 computer that will...

forum.hptuners.com

 

[L8T BURB]

For a more directly compatible engine that brings more power, and non-AFM, I strongly suggest the 6.6 liter L8T engine. It is direct injected, and is the most true "plug and play" swap in the 2015+ platforms.

I have a build thread on here with extensive details on the swap into a 2015 Suburban. Granted I also went with a 6L90 transmission, which definitely complicated things. However, if you're simply swapping engines, the 6.6 L8Ts can be found in some places for well under $5000. In most cases, you can actually get one of these 6.6 engines cheaper than a 5.3.

Additionally, the 6.6 can run on your stock ECM, stock wiring harness, stock exhaust manifolds, stock front accessory drive components... you get the picture here lol.

I would agree with what someone else mentioned though... if planning to lawyer up, make sure you're prepared to likely be unemployed. I know it sucks, but I would imagine a dealership who isn't supporting you through this issue, surely wouldn't entertain keeping you employed if you bring a case against them.

 

[tooleyondeck]

Unless there is a hole in the block, I highly doubt you need a full engine replacement. As others have stated, have a competent mechanic diagnose the compression issue, it can be a number of things, but most will just require a new part or two (ie piston rings, lifter, valvespring, etc). It would be a perfect opportunity to go ahead and refresh that high mileage DI engine by having the valves cleaned and mechanically deleting the AFM/VVT. 200K is not the end of life for that 5.3 and unless there is a catastrophic issue that compromised the engine block itself, a replacement likely won't be necessary. Best of luck and for the record: your boss sucks fat hairy ones....