idling weird...

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Toejam

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no, it is in the ignition wiring.. if your alternator or bat was having a problem your volt meter would drop low and your headlights would start flashing before completely dying.. also check your throttle position sensor as it could be faulty.. but most likely you have come to a point that you need a tune up. plugs wires cap rotor o2 sensors air filter pvc valve and clean your maf sensor and probably go ahead and replace the tps sensor and iac motor. easy mostly cheep stuff before going to see the dreaded mechanic

And THIS, my friends is known in the trade as "Carpet Bombing"--replace EVERYTHING you can think of in the hope that you somehow stumble on the bad part(s).
Just asking...but if all these parts are replaced and the problem still exists, what part should he replace next? And who pays for all these parts? Can he return them and get his money back? Simply amazing that all these parts failed at the exact same time! Then again, a broken clock is right twice a day!
Repair by unnecessary parts replacement and procedures is the last refuge of those that cannot diagnose.

And YES, I am that "Dreaded Mechanic"(Master Technician/ Dealership Shop Foreman to be exact). Ya see...I get paid to DIAGNOSE the issue, propose a repair, effect the repair, and verify the repair. I cannot replace a part that MAY be defective--I have to PROVE it's bad before I spend the customer's hard-earned money.
IT'S WHAT MEN DO
 
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M3PO

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I tend to agree with Toejam. If buying a laundry list of non returnable parts is cheaper than paying the dreaded mechanic, than you have the wrong mechanic. I have three friends that are techs at local dealers, all three are very good at diagnosing issues, which usually means saving the customer money. Its a shame the majority get a bad rap, because someone got a big bill or taken advantage of. Numerous times over the years, all three friends have found my vehicle's issue the first time and it cost me very little time and money, as I only had to buy one part.
 
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DaUsedMCR

DaUsedMCR

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i bought an OBD II scanner and it said no current problems. it had one code in the history P0300 random misfire. but it ran normal when i tested it and it sounded like normal. im going to just wait and drive it til it happens again, and keep the scanner with me. maybe it was just a bit of bad gas or gunk got in there. because since ive had the truck (2 weeks) ive been running Lucas injector cleaner and UCL, and maybe its just clearing out a bit of crud? any other ideas/suggestions?


EDIT: drove it for a bit, and it happened P0305 cylinder 5 misfire... so i happened to be near a Kragen auto parts, and they suggested it was the coil for cylinder 5. is it difficult to replace?
 
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Toejam

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WHY are you using an injection cleaner..and why didnt you mention that in your 1st post?
With your scanner, recheck the P0300 code, then look for a setting that reads "Freeze Frame Data". then access that data.
You will see engine operating conditions at the moment the diagnostic trouble code was recorded. You will see RPM, MPH, LFT and SFT(Short and Long Fuel Trims) and ECT(Engine Coolant Thermosensor).
These readings will allow you to recreate condition to again set the trouble code.
Look closely at SFT--this reading will tell you of the engine is running lean(a positive % or rich(a negative %). Ideally you want it close to zero, but plus or minus 5% is fine.Then look at LFT--if SFT is low or zero, but LFT is high, the engine control unit has shifted the operating parameters to compensate for a lean or rich operating condition.
Record the code and Freeze Frame Data, then use the scanner to clear the code--which will reset all engine operating parameters back to factory spec. This action will also clear the Freeze Frame Data. Be sure to disconnect the battery afterwards, and step on the brake pedal for at least 30 seconds to clear the Keep Alive Memory. From that point on, any code or data recorded will be new.
Freeze Frame Data is valuable in determining what system your problem is located in.
Remember--the code doesnt tell which part is bad, it merely guides you to the system the failure has occurred. The days of "Get a code, get a part" are long gone.

---------- Post added at 08:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:55 PM ----------

i bought an OBD II scanner and it said no current problems. it had one code in the history P0300 random misfire. but it ran normal when i tested it and it sounded like normal. im going to just wait and drive it til it happens again, and keep the scanner with me. maybe it was just a bit of bad gas or gunk got in there. because since ive had the truck (2 weeks) ive been running Lucas injector cleaner and UCL, and maybe its just clearing out a bit of crud? any other ideas/suggestions?


EDIT: drove it for a bit, and it happened P0305 cylinder 5 misfire... so i happened to be near a Kragen auto parts, and they suggested it was the coil for cylinder 5. is it difficult to replace?

Very easily could be #5 coil, and not difficult to replace. At least now you have a direction to take, as the code indicates a problem with #5 cylinder. This rules out a MAF, IAC, and other items which would affect all the cylinders, not just #5. Keep in mind--a missfire can be caused by a compression problem, injector problem, vacuum leak, and any ignition component affecting #5 cylinder. Missfire does not automatically mean it's an ignition fault.Your earlier P0300 suggests that at one point you had more than one cylinder missfire at the same time.
I suggested reading your Freeze Frame Data to see if your fuel trims were correct. If so, then the problem certainly could be an ignition issue. Rule of thumb--if you replace the coil, replace that cylinder's spark plug at the same time, and if the plug wire to that coil is high resistamce(open as measured with an ohmeter) or shorting to ground(use an alligator clipped wire, grounded at one end, the other run along the wire) replace that coil's wire as well.
 

Mac

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Before buying part why don't you switch the coils to test out coil 5.

Switch 4 and 5 cylinder coil and clear the code. If CEL pops up on cylinder 4 then you definitely have a bad number 5 coil...:)
 

Toejam

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Before buying part why don't you switch the coils to test out coil 5.

Switch 4 and 5 cylinder coil and clear the code. If CEL pops up on cylinder 4 then you definitely have a bad number 5 coil...:)

THAT is an excellent idea.
But..there is no law stating you can have only one problem at a time, or that a condition could be present that caused the damage to a coil, plug, injector, etc. Then the symptom could reappear regardless of the new part.
Hence reading the Freeze Frame Data.
He's already got a scanner, and most all scanners will read Freeze Frame Data, so why wouldnt he use it to his advantage?
 
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DaUsedMCR

DaUsedMCR

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i checked it again for the P0300, and heres the freeze frame data

Fuel Sys 1 CL
Fuel Sys 2 CL
Calc Load % 2.7
ECT % 76
STFT B1 % 0.0
LTFT B1 % 13.3
STFT B2 % 0.0
LTFT B2 % 1.6
MAP (kPa) 41
RPM 542
MAF (g/s) 7.03
TPS % 5.5
 

Copland

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Your LTFT on bank 1 are a little bit high, means the o2 is messuring a little lean condition there. But it's way to less to cause a misfire and your STFT are good. I would go on with checking out for cylinder 5. The swapping the coil / plug / wire method is always good to determine the culprit. I had the same issue with cyl 7 before, there was a small crack in the spark plug insulator which you could hardly see...
 
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DaUsedMCR

DaUsedMCR

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im gonna go ahead tomorrow and replace all plugs with ngk iridium IX's, acdelco wires and then whatever brand of coils they have at kragens. and ill c if that fixes it, im hoping it will!!!
 

Ironman1979

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so Toejam i guess i am an idiot for recomending a standard tune up for a 2001 tahoe that has a idleing problem. or maybe you just like being a jack ass and making yourself feel better at some one elses expense. most of the parts i recomended can be had from a local auto parts store and installed by himself for less than the price of taking his truck to a dealer or auto repair shop for a diagnostics to tell him he has a fouled plug in the number 5 cylinder. in my opinion for an 01... it probably time for a tune up.. safe bet. and cheaper than you taking 3 hrs at 85 per hr for labor charging 15 for shop towels 12 for a can of fuel injector cleaner and 50 bucks for a set of factory delco plugs.. im trying to help a fellow forum member with an issue that i have had in my own vehicle not come in and be **** of the walk and make some one else look bad.
 
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