hey now come on. both are good suggestions, and noone has to fight about it. like you said, its helping out a forum member. just replaceing all the stuff ironman said is kinda out of my budget. hell, just doing the plugs, wires, and coils is gonna drain me for a couple weeks. so whatever suggestions can save me the most money, im all for. if this semi-tune up doesnt work, im just gonna take it to a shop, because im not all that skilled in mechanic work. just a novice level person lol. and all this fighting isnt helping ME or ANYONE lol. so what can i do about that high LTFT? could that still be caused by plugs wires or coils?
Sorry, I was not getting nasty--I just called it based on 40 years of doing this professionally. Needless parts replacement helps no one except the parts store. Again, I asked questions and did not get one answer as to who pays for these parts, what to replace next if the problem still is present, etc.
And I understand your situation with both money and experience, but you
did manage to get Freeze Frame Data.
If you DID replace all that was suggested, and the problem was repaired, how could you know exactly what the main culprit was? if the problem reoccurred would you replace then all over again? Diagnosis is the key here, and it isnt rocket science.
As for your high LFT, allow me to explain: 02 sensors do not read until heated up to 600 degrees F, and your ECT shows 76%, which should have been in degrees either C or F. Your SFT's both read zero, which tells me that the 02's hadnt heated up enough to give you a reading. Your missfire event was recorded when the engine was cold. So here is where we go next:
Write down code and Freeze Frame Data, then clear the code.This will reset the Freeze Frame Data. Run the engine til it's at normal operating temperature, then using thje scanner, monitor DATASTREAM. This is live data as it's actually being gathered. As soon as the 02s start sending data to the engine control unit, your SFT's will begin showing numbers, + or - in %.
If there is a lean condition on the SFT will rise to a predetermined point, then revert to 0% and the LFT which was at 0% will rise. I noticed that your high LFT was on one bank. Possible causes include: vacuum leak, partially clogged fuel injector, manifold gasket leaking etc. And there are simple diagnostic procedures to determine where the problem lies.
You mentioned using NGK Iridium plugs, and whatever coil your auto parts store carries. Why would you not use the oem plugs and Delco coil? These are available at most auto parts stores. Ive repaired countless vehicles where the aftermarket replacement part caused more problems than the part it replaced. When you are diagnosing, a non-stock item introduces a variable which can have you chasing your tail. Remember--new just means new, not necessarily good. And Ive had defective oem parts too, but MUCH less frequently than aftermarket.
Last week I had a '95 4-cylinder car come to me with poor acceleration and severe hesitation. The owner himself replaced: spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, distributor(which is the cam angle sensor--times both injection and ignition), the Mass Airflow sensor and..the engine control unit. Roughly $1500 in parts.
I ran a compression test, was a little low on the center 2 cylinders but would not have caused this symptom. I check cam timing, was right on the money. I pulled the distributor and found it had been installed 2 teeth off, reset and installed it--wouldnt run! The rotor had been installed in the wrong one of 3 positions, corrected it and it was smooth as silk. But the hesitation remained. New wires ohmed out good, fuel trims were normal, and adding an additional fuel source--propane into the intake air duct only made matters worse--it was not a fuel delivery problem. I pulled out the spark plugs--oem NGKs with some miles on them, but not worn out, and replaced them with a new set out of stock. PROBLEM RESOLVED! Thew old plugs would not fire under load. Had I not checked everything in a diagnostic sequence, I might have missed the distributor timing. And here is the bottom line---the original problem was the spark plugs--but the owner botched the distributor installation and rotor position which compounded his problem. $1500 in parts when a $15 set of NGKs--at our dealership price--would have fixed it.
Happens all the time.
