ignition switch to relay ground/short

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bobjohnson5000

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Ignition Switch Problem

So far, I have replaced Battery, Starter, relay and ignition switch.

I am assuming it is shorting out somewhere. Before I started replacing things;

It would take 3 to 5 times of turning the key from the on to start position to get the truck to starter to engage and start the car. Some of the attempts, you could hear the relay click and some not. This would only occur on the first start of the day. Running around town, it would start on the first try, multiple times in the day.

As the problem got worse, it would take sometimes 6 to 10 times of turning the key from the on position to the start position to get the car to start. The actual turning the key from “on” to start also seemed to be getting sloppier.

The starter would also struggle some when starting but would start the car, and seemed to struggle on later starts in the day when the car was starting on first attempt.

Replaced the battery

Again, after multiple start try’s, it would start, the rest of the day was no problems. but that did not seem to help with the struggling start.

Then replaced starter.

Now I can’t get it to turn over at/start at all.

Replaced the relay. Also hooked up the battery and shorted the relay circuit and the starter turns over fine, did not sound like it was struggling as before. (I think the starter was going) So I have power to the relay box, again, assuming short/bad ground between ignition switch and ?????. Have not figured out the path of the small voltage from the ignition switch thru the ECM or ??? before getting to the relay.

Replaced ignition switch.

When I installed the new switch, with the white gear rolled all the way to the left, as I believe the way it was set on the old one, the key turns on everything, everything looks correct, but the key won’t turn far enough to engage the starter. When I rotate the white gear all the way to the right, as it came out of the box, the key won’t turn at all. I moved the gear to an in-between, the key turns everything on, looks and works normal, but when I turn the key to the start position, which it moves to easily, the lights all dim and the starter does not engage. No relay clicking, just looks like it is shorting/grounding out.

If I thought it would not harm anything, I would just put a push button switch wired directly to the relay from the steering column to start the car and be done with it.

I found the switch diagram on line, which is how I found this site. Thought it best to check to see if anyone had any thoughts before I screw something up (more) or have it towed to a dealer for $225/hr investigatory looksee.

Thanks
 

Dustin Jackson

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@bobjohnson5000 If you haven't looked into it yet, the negative battery cable is known to go bad on the 2007-2015 model tahoes. You can test this by grabbing the negative battery cable and pushing it back towards the firewall and then try starting the tahoe again.

Here is a video of when I was having problems starting and replacing the negative cable 100% cured my problem 4 years ago
 

j91z28d1

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yes.. the fact that it turned over slowly in the morning and then replaced the started and it wouldn't start at all leads me to thinks replacing both battery cables is a good place to start.

they are known to go bad and look perfect.
 

rdezs

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You just need to get that little white gear clocked correctly. Sounds like it's one tooth off. It's been a couple years since I had to deal with that, and yeah, it's a headache. Normally the new ignition switch will come with specific instructions. If not, there should be something online or on YouTube.

You can verify that's the problem by unplugging your ignition switch from the lock cylinder. Keep it plugged into the harness. Turn your key forward so the passlock system identifies it. Then rotate a little white gear, and when you push it forward to where it feels spring loaded the engine should turn over. Let off the spring-loaded position once it starts. If it runs normal, it's just a matter of clocking that gear
 
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bobjohnson5000

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@bobjohnson5000 If you haven't looked into it yet, the negative battery cable is known to go bad on the 2007-2015 model tahoes. You can test this by grabbing the negative battery cable and pushing it back towards the firewall and then try starting the tahoe again.

Here is a video of when I was having problems starting and replacing the negative cable 100% cured my problem 4 years ago
thanks, i will give it a try
 
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bobjohnson5000

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You just need to get that little white gear clocked correctly. Sounds like it's one tooth off. It's been a couple years since I had to deal with that, and yeah, it's a headache. Normally the new ignition switch will come with specific instructions. If not, there should be something online or on YouTube.

You can verify that's the problem by unplugging your ignition switch from the lock cylinder. Keep it plugged into the harness. Turn your key forward so the passlock system identifies it. Then rotate a little white gear, and when you push it forward to where it feels spring loaded the engine should turn over. Let off the spring-loaded position once it starts. If it runs normal, it's just a matter of clocking that gear
thanks, I have now got the gear inside the steering column screwed up. have to find a diagram of how it is supposed to be set.
 

OR VietVet

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Have ran in to this a few times, once on a personal vehicle. Those teeth can be off one tooth and if you cycle enough times or torque the key hard enough it can start. This repair attempt is easier than the other suggested components. But have also heard several times of the cables causing problems.
 

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