sumo
dn ʇǝƃ ʇuɐɔ & llǝɟ ı
i was going off feed back of others
I'm Fecked
- Thread starter BigDaddy13440
- Start date
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SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
who likely give there feed back after they made their purchase and most likely before any problems develop within a year of installing the stuff. To each his own. I just don't want to see people get hurt because they were trying to cut costs.
the big blue bus
Full Access Member
hope i can get mine aligned after i replace my bjs and idler arm. hope this solves all the play and wondering i have as well. not to get off topic but would a steering stabilizer help any? guess i should replace those parts first and see if it is any diff. im going with moog parts. that seems to be the best from what everone says on the forums and id rather not have to do it again soon
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BigDaddy13440
Full Access Member
I have a buddy that is Store Manager at the local Autopart International, and he's been getting me all the parts I've needed for the last 5-6 years at his discount, which is 10% over cost. Almost every part we've used has been a "year warranty", but he's often able to warranty them for a couple years, or more.
The only issue I have is the labor to replace things so often - spent $190 on labor alone in December, then another $175 in February (busted CV axleshaft, due to the poor alignment), went to have the alignment done (again, under warranty, 12 months at Goodyear), but they wouldn't cover it because I had to have the tie rod ends done, and they wanted $460 to "redo" everything that had just been done within the last 4 months.
In all, I think my buddy can cover the ball joints, tie rod ends and idler and pitman arms. I'm going to have to pay for the control arm bushings, and while I'm at it, going to replace the shocks with KYB's and add a steering stabilizer.
I THINK we're going to try to pull it all apart in his garage, get the alignment so it will at least go down the road, and take it straight to an alignment shop (less than 3 miles away). If EVERYTHING is new, how the hell are they going to tell me it can't be aligned? I've been told to take it to a frame shop, "it must have been in an accident". I've had it for 4 1/2 years, and it WAS aligned when I got it, even ran the 285's on it for 2 years without any issues.
No suspension lift, just turned torsions, about 1 1/2" - could max out at 2 1/2", but CV angles are way off. The 285/75/16's are on 16x8 wheels with +6mm backspacing, they stick out about 1 1/2" further than the stock wheels. I had to trim the rear of the fenders about an inch to clear them, and cut the trailing edge of the front bumper at an angle, have over an inch of clearance at max articulation.
AND: regarding the parts. My buddy says that the parts API sells are made in the same factories as Moog, there are no differences in quality. I'd love to find heavy-duty bj's and pitman and idler arms, will 2500 series units from a Suburban or pickup fit?
The only issue I have is the labor to replace things so often - spent $190 on labor alone in December, then another $175 in February (busted CV axleshaft, due to the poor alignment), went to have the alignment done (again, under warranty, 12 months at Goodyear), but they wouldn't cover it because I had to have the tie rod ends done, and they wanted $460 to "redo" everything that had just been done within the last 4 months.
In all, I think my buddy can cover the ball joints, tie rod ends and idler and pitman arms. I'm going to have to pay for the control arm bushings, and while I'm at it, going to replace the shocks with KYB's and add a steering stabilizer.
I THINK we're going to try to pull it all apart in his garage, get the alignment so it will at least go down the road, and take it straight to an alignment shop (less than 3 miles away). If EVERYTHING is new, how the hell are they going to tell me it can't be aligned? I've been told to take it to a frame shop, "it must have been in an accident". I've had it for 4 1/2 years, and it WAS aligned when I got it, even ran the 285's on it for 2 years without any issues.
No suspension lift, just turned torsions, about 1 1/2" - could max out at 2 1/2", but CV angles are way off. The 285/75/16's are on 16x8 wheels with +6mm backspacing, they stick out about 1 1/2" further than the stock wheels. I had to trim the rear of the fenders about an inch to clear them, and cut the trailing edge of the front bumper at an angle, have over an inch of clearance at max articulation.
AND: regarding the parts. My buddy says that the parts API sells are made in the same factories as Moog, there are no differences in quality. I'd love to find heavy-duty bj's and pitman and idler arms, will 2500 series units from a Suburban or pickup fit?
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BigDaddy13440
Full Access Member
UPDATE: Had everything repaired at the shop where I was going to have the alignment done. 9 hrs of labor @ $65/hr, and I'm out $636 ...
They replaced:
all 4 Ball Joints
pitman arm
idler arm and bracket
inner and outer tie rods and adjusters
sway bar links
front shocks
upper control arm bushings
and did an alignment when everything had been replaced.
Truck now goes down the road fairly straight, still pulls a bit to the left. Was told it was because of my warped rotors, the pads are dragging on the driver's side - should be OK as soon as I replace the brakes with new parts. Also need new shocks for the rear, and rear brakes as well. Have Kumho Mojave AT 285/75/16's to go on, as soon as everything else is done - don't want to destroy the tires having anything else screwed up.
Luckily, most of the parts were covered under warranty - only cost me $126 for parts (at my buddy's discount), vs the $1150 for full retail for everything that was replaced....
They replaced:
all 4 Ball Joints
pitman arm
idler arm and bracket
inner and outer tie rods and adjusters
sway bar links
front shocks
upper control arm bushings
and did an alignment when everything had been replaced.
Truck now goes down the road fairly straight, still pulls a bit to the left. Was told it was because of my warped rotors, the pads are dragging on the driver's side - should be OK as soon as I replace the brakes with new parts. Also need new shocks for the rear, and rear brakes as well. Have Kumho Mojave AT 285/75/16's to go on, as soon as everything else is done - don't want to destroy the tires having anything else screwed up.
Luckily, most of the parts were covered under warranty - only cost me $126 for parts (at my buddy's discount), vs the $1150 for full retail for everything that was replaced....
99Yukon_Z71
Crazy Puerto Rican
I doubt the pads "dragging" is the main issue to why it still pulls. Have them re-check the camber angles. For a dragging brake to actually cause a pull, you would be smelling burnt pad material. Try turning or machining the rotors.
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BigDaddy13440
Full Access Member
I can actually feel the front pads drag, I need new brakes regardless. They do smell, and I have a pulsing in the system, as the front rotor(s) are warped.
AND, EVEN BETTER!!!
Was on my way with a customer to Home Depot to get supplies, my driver's side front wheel rolled past me as my front end dropped to the pavement! Luckily, I was stopping at a light 100ft ahead, instead of it happening at 60mph.
The nut on the lower ball joint plowed up about 10 feet of blacktop, who knows how ****** up everything is. Was able to get it jacked up and put the wheel back on, as someone found 4 of the six lug nuts laying in the street over the previous two blocks I'd traveled. Had to go buy a few lug nuts so I wasn't rolling without the wheels being fully secured.
Taking it to the shop tomorrow AM, they will be looking EVERYTHING over, and WILL be giving me whatever I want, within reason. I'm thinking I may have destroyed whatever was left of the rotor, have the pads replaced, an AC refill, etc....
AtomicHoe094
Atomichoe094
wth. Whos fault is this now? youve had some bad luck with this thing.
Just wow. I have nothing else.
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
Oops.
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