Input Requested on Moderate Suspension Lift, Skid Plate & Wheel/Tire Options (including the use of Toyota wheels)

[OhioYukon]

Additionally I'm trying to decide what to do for the suspension itself. Per @swathdiver (see his response above) I already have the OEM Z71 springs due to my vehicle being equipped with the ZW7 "Premium Smooth Ride Suspension" setup. It doesn't sound as though I need to get into the Moog spring options discussed elsewhere in this thread.

As I see it I have 2, possibly 3, options if I've interpreted everyone's responses correctly:

Front suspension:
1.) Bilstein 5100 front struts on the highest setting to get the front end up 2.25-2.5". I've seen some posts referencing a significantly harsher ride vs stock with the Bilsteins? Would really be appreciative if folks could weigh-in on their experiences with the Bilsteins and their impact on the ride quality.

2.) ReadyLift 2.25" front leveling kit (p/n: 66-3085) with the stock ZW7 struts (mine are original with approx 93k miles).

3.) Combining both 1 & 2 above. Not sure if that is going to give too much lift and require the use of an aftermarket upper control arm due to suspension geometry. If that is the case this is not something I probably want to get into.

What do you think folks? I'm really at a loss on this one.

Rear suspension:
Note: It does appear that the ZW7 (aka rear Nivomat equipped) suspension IS compatible with the rear components of the ReadyLift kit after all. I stopped at a well regarded local 4WD customizer's shop earlier today that I've come across and he confirmed it.

1.) Keep the OEM self-leveling Nivomat shocks out back for a level look.

2.) Keep the OEM self-leveling Nivomat shocks out back but use the Ready Lift Rear Coil Spring Spacer in the 1.5" (p/n: 66-3015) or 1.0" (p/n: 66-3010) variant combined with the ReadyLift Rear Shock Extensions - GM Full-Size Truck / SUV 1500 1999-2023. Not sure how the Nivomats will respond to this?

3.) Lose the OEM self-leveling Nivomat shocks out back in favor of the Bilstein B8 5100's and the ReadyLift Rear Coil Spring Spacer in the 1.5" (p/n: 66-3015) or 1.0" (p/n: 66-3010) variant combined with the ReadyLift Rear Shock Extensions - GM Full-Size Truck / SUV 1500 1999-2023.

Overall:
Can you mix/match the Bilstein 5100 struts up front with the OEM Nivomats in the rear without upsetting the handling/ride quality balance of the vehicle? Even if you can, should I? Should I give the OEM shocks/struts a chance with the ReadyLift and just see how it goes? That seems like the most cost effective solution in the short term. While I am keeping an eye on cost my goal is to make the smart move here, even if smart might cost a bit more in the beginning.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@OhioYukon
Front: bilstein 5100 aren’t built for comfort, they are for off road performance. They take a beating off road, if you aren’t going to be off road look into the 4600 series.

You can combine a spacer lift with bilsteins to achieve more lift, aftermarket upper control arm is required.

Rear:
I would go with traditional style shocks and springs for the rear.

Call rough country and ask for the rear shock extenders from their 3.5 inch lift, the shock extenders you linked look poorly design and quality.

Also if you are going to lift 3.5 inches you’ll need to address your rear axle being off center, along with your rear sway bar end links.

It feels like I’ve said most of this already.

 

[Jhwhite05]

Additionally I'm trying to decide what to do for the suspension itself. Per @swathdiver (see his response above) I already have the OEM Z71 springs due to my vehicle being equipped with the ZW7 "Premium Smooth Ride Suspension" setup. It doesn't sound as though I need to get into the Moog spring options discussed elsewhere in this thread.

As I see it I have 2, possibly 3, options if I've interpreted everyone's responses correctly:

Front suspension:
1.) Bilstein 5100 front struts on the highest setting to get the front end up 2.25-2.5". I've seen some posts referencing a significantly harsher ride vs stock with the Bilsteins? Would really be appreciative if folks could weigh-in on their experiences with the Bilsteins and their impact on the ride quality.

2.) ReadyLift 2.25" front leveling kit (p/n: 66-3085) with the stock ZW7 struts (mine are original with approx 93k miles).

3.) Combining both 1 & 2 above. Not sure if that is going to give too much lift and require the use of an aftermarket upper control arm due to suspension geometry. If that is the case this is not something I probably want to get into.

What do you think folks? I'm really at a loss on this one.

Rear suspension:
Note: It does appear that the ZW7 (aka rear Nivomat equipped) suspension IS compatible with the rear components of the ReadyLift kit after all. I stopped at a well regarded local 4WD customizer's shop earlier today that I've come across and he confirmed it.

1.) Keep the OEM self-leveling Nivomat shocks out back for a level look.

2.) Keep the OEM self-leveling Nivomat shocks out back but use the Ready Lift Rear Coil Spring Spacer in the 1.5" (p/n: 66-3015) or 1.0" (p/n: 66-3010) variant combined with the ReadyLift Rear Shock Extensions - GM Full-Size Truck / SUV 1500 1999-2023. Not sure how the Nivomats will respond to this?

3.) Lose the OEM self-leveling Nivomat shocks out back in favor of the Bilstein B8 5100's and the ReadyLift Rear Coil Spring Spacer in the 1.5" (p/n: 66-3015) or 1.0" (p/n: 66-3010) variant combined with the ReadyLift Rear Shock Extensions - GM Full-Size Truck / SUV 1500 1999-2023.

Overall:
Can you mix/match the Bilstein 5100 struts up front with the OEM Nivomats in the rear without upsetting the handling/ride quality balance of the vehicle? Even if you can, should I? Should I give the OEM shocks/struts a chance with the ReadyLift and just see how it goes? That seems like the most cost effective solution in the short term. While I am keeping an eye on cost my goal is to make the smart move here, even if smart might cost a bit more in the beginning.

My experience with the Bilstein 5100 up front is that it rides just fine. On my first test drive I think I noticed it was slightly “stiffer” but I wouldn’t have used the word “harsh”. Now, I don’t notice it at all which means I have adjusted to whatever difference there was and am happy with the result. Hope that helps.

 

[steiny93]

Post a pic of the Tahoe on tracks please. That would be neat to see!

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/tracked-tahoe.131724/ pic in the thread

 

[OhioYukon]

 

[Charlie207]

View attachment 397556

I guess we'll see how sturdy those rear shock extenders really are.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

I guess we'll see how sturdy those rear shock extenders really are.

I'm guess they are only as sturdy as the shock bushings

 

[Actifenpleinair]

View attachment 397556

So, what is the verdict after a few seasons?
What was the final build and how are you liking it?

 

[Dustin Jackson]

If you want good shock extenders go with Rough Country they are very robust and absolutely needed if you are running a lift without lift shocks.

 

[Marshall 008]

Check out Baseline Overland for some real
Skid plates if you are wanting full protection. I think they just came out with a decent set for our vehicles.
Also, the aftermarket wheels for our vehicles aren’t the best in terms of offset choice. Most want to push the tires out past the fenders. I ended up going with some RRW RRH-7’s for a Lexus GX because of the 0mm offset to keep the wheels and tires flush as possible with the z71 flares.
You can go down the rabbit hole for suspension. People have already given solid advice but you will figure out what will work for you. You can search the web and see that most front end suspension is transferable from the silverados of the same years. You can search companies like Dirt King, Camburg, Baja Kits, etc. You will get what you pay for when it comes to suspension.
I first installed the 5100’s. They rode well but did not like that I couldn’t level the vehicle perfectly. A little OCD on that. I ended up for now using some Fox 2.5 coil overs that are adjustable 0”-3”. Added a set of tubular Dirt King UCA. The rear started with the Moogs 81069’s but ended up going to a custom made set of coil springs from Coil Spring Specialist. I ditched the rear control arms aka rear links and had a set made out of Johnny joints and tubular DOM tubing.
I still have a ways to go but as you mod you will find out what works and doesn’t work and go from there.