Intake manifold gasket replace

[withac]

I need to replace the intake manifold gasket on my 2,000 ‘** with the 5.3. I’ve never done anything this complicated before but the guys back on TF told me it was pretty easy. I bought myself a Chilton’s manual and figure if I can follow instructions I should be able to walk through it. I haven’t have the time to tackle it but might soon. Any hints, tips, warnings, things to look out for etc. that you’d care to pass along?

 

[Virginia Donkey]

Disconnecting the connectors on the injectors is the hardest part....maybe after taking off the throttle body coolant lines. Since the manifold is a dry manifold, other than the wiring harnesses, there isn't much to stress over.

I did it about 9 months ago and taking my time ( including a lunch break) the whole job took about 3 1/2 hours

 

[JKmotorsports]

You'll need a fuel line disconnect tool for the lines at the fuel rail. Don't forget to relieve the fuel system pressure, and use an old shop towel or rag underneath the fuel lines to soak up the fuel when you disconnect them.
Make sure you clean off whatever you can before you remove the intake manifold. Once you get it off, tape over the intake ports on the heads then clean off all the debris and junk from the top of the block. You want to make sure you don't get anything in the intake ports.
All in all, it's a fairly simple job for the avg diy'er.

 

[withac]

Just the sort of stuff I was looking for.

Thanks guys.

 

[withac]

Okay, I'm about ready to sack up and try this. I've been looking through the repair manual and have some questions.

1. The Chilton’s manual says to remove the fuel injectors, fuel rails, and TB from the intake manifold before removing the manifold. It then says they are usually removed together as one unit but taking them off separately helps prevent damage to the injectors when the manifold is removed. So, you guys that have done this, what is the best way? Take them off separate or as one unit?

2. If I do remove the fuel rails and injectors from the intake manifold won’t I need new o-rings for the injectors?

3. If I take them off as a full assembly I’ll still need the fuel line disconnect tool, right?

4. In the torque specs it says Step one, 44 in-lbs. Step two, 89 in-lbs. The instructions don’t list a step one and two. Could this mean I tighten them once to 44 then go back over them again tightening them to 89?

5. It says to chase the threads in the bolt holes before reassembling. Is this necessary?

It doesn't mention any kind of gasket adhesive. I assume you don't use any?

Thanks

 

[Virginia Donkey]

Just my humble opinion......

1. The Chilton’s manual says to remove the fuel injectors, fuel rails, and TB from the intake manifold before removing the manifold. It then says they are usually removed together as one unit but taking them off separately helps prevent damage to the injectors when the manifold is removed. So, you guys that have done this, what is the best way? Take them off separate or as one unit?

>>Leave the TB and injectors attached to the intake, That way you only need the fuel line tool and not worry about the TB gasket or injector o-rings. NOTE: the cable for the cruise control will be a pain to remove as you have to press a tab with a screwdiver and turn the star wheel if I recall correctly, and one of the TB coolant clamps will be a pain.

2. If I do remove the fuel rails and injectors from the intake manifold won’t I need new o-rings for the injectors?

>> Possibly.....you may tear one taking the injector out. It is way easier to just leave the injectors and fuel rail intact and attached to the manifold

3. If I take them off as a full assembly I’ll still need the fuel line disconnect tool, right?

>> Yes. make sure you relieve the fuel pressure first by pressing on the schrader valve, and catch the gas that comes out with a rag.

4. In the torque specs it says Step one, 44 in-lbs. Step two, 89 in-lbs. The instructions don’t list a step one and two. Could this mean I tighten them once to 44 then go back over them again tightening them to 89?

>> I used the "snug is good enough" method since I don't have an inch pound torque wrench. I ran all the screws down by hand to where they stopped, then in the criss cross method, snugged them down

5. It says to chase the threads in the bolt holes before reassembling. Is this necessary?

>> I didn't do it. If the bolts come out nice and smooth, then I wouldn't worry about it

You don't need any adhesive, the gaskets have locating tabs and the gasket itself is an o-ring