Intake manifold repair help.

[unabashedpraise]

1999 suburban k1500, 5.7 vortec

I think I'm doing pretty good. However I have a couple issues. This is it's current state. I'm going to be replacing spider injectors, plugs, wires, and distributor... And everything else that breaks along the way.


Current issues:
-what is the best obd2 program for checking retard for the new distributor?

-How the heck are you supposed to get the ac brace out of the way?

-what the heck is part number 23 called? Mine snapped like a dry twig.

Thanks.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[east302]

For the CMP retard, I used a BAFX model 34t5 OBD Bluetooth adapter and CarGaugePro or DashCommand android app. I couldn't find one that worked with and iPad (the one advertised by Palmer Performance definitely did not ) so I bought a cheap RCA android tablet from Walmart. For the DashCommand, you have to buy the extra extended PIDs package for your year model.

After flopping the compressor over, you have to loosen the bolts that hold the bracket on and pry it forward to allow the lower intake to be removed. It doesn't have to come out much, but will shift enough. Here's a video that may help, he does the compressor bracket at around 7:00...

You may have done it right, but when the compressor is folded over make sure you remove the AC hoses from the clamp at the alternator. I didn't, snapped a hose and my refrigerant said goodbye.

The vacuum line (23) looks like the one that goes over to the solenoid on the firewall. This controls the heater valve, so when you select the AC temperature dial to "max" it closes the heater valve and shuts off coolant flow to the heater core for better cooling. You could probably get some vacuum line and make it work, just route it away from any direct heat. Or, just splice the breaks together with it.

When you swap the injectors, don't forget the two little o-rings that go on the fuel lines at the firewall.

Hope this helps.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[east302]

One more thing, I want to say there was another bolt on that AC bracket that had to come out to get it to shift. I think it was down at the bottom and wasn't shown in that video. I think I had to take off the front skid plate...it was buried up in there at the very bottom of the bracket.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Kenny D]

One more thing. When you go back on with the lower intake, be sure to run your torque sequence over and over until all the bolts stay tight. When I did mine a while back, it took about 5 rounds before all the bolts stayed torqued. I learned the hard way. I had the leaky gasket like the 5.7 did and I replaced the gasket. Did everything according to the repair manual and did the sequence twice. I didn't make it 10 miles before the gasket failed and ended up costing me 2 new heads and another weekend working on the beast. Sorry for the long story, but trust me, do the sequence UNTIL all the bolts hold torque.

 

[Kenny D]

One more thing, I want to say there was another bolt on that AC bracket that had to come out to get it to shift. I think it was down at the bottom and wasn't shown in that video. I think I had to take off the front skid plate...it was buried up in there at the very bottom of the bracket.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The GM engineers from that generation must have had a sadistic side to them. They put fasteners in places that contourtionist could only reach.

 

[unabashedpraise]

For the CMP retard, I used a BAFX model 34t5 OBD Bluetooth adapter and CarGaugePro or DashCommand android app. I couldn't find one that worked with and iPad (the one advertised by Palmer Performance definitely did not ) so I bought a cheap RCA android tablet from Walmart. For the DashCommand, you have to buy the extra extended PIDs package for your year model.

After flopping the compressor over, you have to loosen the bolts that hold the bracket on and pry it forward to allow the lower intake to be removed. It doesn't have to come out much, but will shift enough. Here's a video that may help, he does the compressor bracket at around 7:00...

You may have done it right, but when the compressor is folded over make sure you remove the AC hoses from the clamp at the alternator. I didn't, snapped a hose and my refrigerant said goodbye.

The vacuum line (23) looks like the one that goes over to the solenoid on the firewall. This controls the heater valve, so when you select the AC temperature dial to "max" it closes the heater valve and shuts off coolant flow to the heater core for better cooling. You could probably get some vacuum line and make it work, just route it away from any direct heat. Or, just splice the breaks together with it.

When you swap the injectors, don't forget the two little o-rings that go on the fuel lines at the firewall.

Hope this helps.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That video shows a bracket hindsight the rear of the power steering pump on. That's exactly what I needed!

I'll look into the apps for Android.

May have to buy some vacuum line. Can't find that part anywhere.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[unabashedpraise]

The GM engineers from that generation must have had a sadistic side to them. They put fasteners in places that contourtionist could only reach.

Truth. Or they just assumed that an engine disassembly was required for random minor repairs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[unabashedpraise]

This is helpful stuff. Thanks. I'll post up with progress/more issues.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[east302]

Do you have the torque specs for upper and lower intakes?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[unabashedpraise]

Do you have the torque specs for upper and lower intakes?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My Haynes manual has them. I think. Not sure about this upper and lower unless they are talking about the plenum and intake.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk