Interested in beefing up my Suburban

[Pyramid_Head]

Hello again everyone.

I've been thinking about beefing up my 2011 Burb LT 2wd with 127k miles for quite some time. Now that I'm in the process in buying a small 10 acre ranch in North Dakota, I would like someone to steer me in the right direction on this build. So far, I've replaced all suspension components with oem, springs are stiffer, and maybe 2 inch taller, have bilstein 4600 shocks all around, new tires, recent alignment, new oem spark plugs and wires, new water pump, new belts, new pcv valve (but also have catch can), new differential oil, drained and filled trans oil 5 times, hellwig front and rear sway bars with end links, range technology dod disabler, new disc brakes and pads all around.

I just ordered oem trans cooler with hoses.

-Soon, I will buy Circle D torque converter with 1800-2000 stall
- Take it to a shop to rebuild the transmission
-3.73 gears (still not sure about the brand)

Later in the future:
-Stock L9H swap, but not sure if 3.73 gears would be useful in this engine.

The reason why I want to keep the burb is because it's rust-free, clean title, has all maintenance history, paid off (more money to build it better), I can haul my family as well as do work around the farm. Most importantly is that I had many opportunities to sell it (ive already had 5 decent offers that i said no to), but every time I wash it, or just get close to it, I can't see myself parting from it.

Any recommendations/thoughts? Or am I just crazy?

 

[Bigburb3500]

Man, that is a good refresh on the truck! There are two things that my belief will never waiver on:
Best car in the world: A paid for one.
Fastest car in the world: A rental.
It’s why you keep one and don’t buy the other!

It sounds like you have replaced most/everything that wares out on these trucks and even went further in preventative work. If you can’t see yourself parting with it and have no reason to, then don’t. No need to take on a payment if this paid for truck is still your cup o’ tea.

That is about all the useful help I can provide on this, but I’m sure some others will chime in!

 

[j91z28d1]

I'd say best to address the afm stuff. at the least a tune to turn it off not just the obd plug.

with the tune most sat the tranny tune is nice as well

 

[swathdiver]

Hello again everyone.

I've been thinking about beefing up my 2011 Burb LT 2wd with 127k miles for quite some time. Now that I'm in the process in buying a small 10 acre ranch in North Dakota, I would like someone to steer me in the right direction on this build. So far, I've replaced all suspension components with oem, springs are stiffer, and maybe 2 inch taller, have bilstein 4600 shocks all around, new tires, recent alignment, new oem spark plugs and wires, new water pump, new belts, new pcv valve (but also have catch can), new differential oil, drained and filled trans oil 5 times, hellwig front and rear sway bars with end links, range technology dod disabler, new disc brakes and pads all around.

I just ordered oem trans cooler with hoses.

-Soon, I will buy Circle D torque converter with 1800-2000 stall
- Take it to a shop to rebuild the transmission
-3.73 gears (still not sure about the brand)

Later in the future:
-Stock L9H swap, but not sure if 3.73 gears would be useful in this engine.

The reason why I want to keep the burb is because it's rust-free, clean title, has all maintenance history, paid off (more money to build it better), I can haul my family as well as do work around the farm. Most importantly is that I had many opportunities to sell it (ive already had 5 decent offers that i said no to), but every time I wash it, or just get close to it, I can't see myself parting from it.

Any recommendations/thoughts? Or am I just crazy?

PCV valve???

Does the 10 acres require you to get around it in 4WD? KO2s would help even a RWD truck get around on mild rough terrain.

A 6.2 with 3.73 gears is the ultimate configuration but not necessary unless you are racing, tractor pulling, towing heavy, etc.

I've got one with 3.73s and its sweet! Soon to have another!

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I'd say that you have maintained your truck better than most owners. Just keep up the great work!

 

[Geotrash]

Hello again everyone.

I've been thinking about beefing up my 2011 Burb LT 2wd with 127k miles for quite some time. Now that I'm in the process in buying a small 10 acre ranch in North Dakota, I would like someone to steer me in the right direction on this build. So far, I've replaced all suspension components with oem, springs are stiffer, and maybe 2 inch taller, have bilstein 4600 shocks all around, new tires, recent alignment, new oem spark plugs and wires, new water pump, new belts, new pcv valve (but also have catch can), new differential oil, drained and filled trans oil 5 times, hellwig front and rear sway bars with end links, range technology dod disabler, new disc brakes and pads all around.

I just ordered oem trans cooler with hoses.

-Soon, I will buy Circle D torque converter with 1800-2000 stall
- Take it to a shop to rebuild the transmission
-3.73 gears (still not sure about the brand)

Later in the future:
-Stock L9H swap, but not sure if 3.73 gears would be useful in this engine.

The reason why I want to keep the burb is because it's rust-free, clean title, has all maintenance history, paid off (more money to build it better), I can haul my family as well as do work around the farm. Most importantly is that I had many opportunities to sell it (ive already had 5 decent offers that i said no to), but every time I wash it, or just get close to it, I can't see myself parting from it.

Any recommendations/thoughts? Or am I just crazy?

I think you can safely delay the transmission rebuild. The main problem with the 6L80 in a 2011 Burb lies with the torque converter's lockup clutch, which is stressed to an additional degree with the operation of the AFM system as it switches modes. When it fails, is sends debris through the rest of the transmission, causing it to fail. So you can make the transmission last much longer by disabling AFM and upgrading the torque converter. I had my local transmission shop drop the transmission on my 2012 to replace the TC and the rear main seal in March, 2021 at 118K. It's our dedicated towing rig and now has an additional 25K miles (143K) of heavy towing duty under its belt, and the original transmission is still working flawlessly.

The TC they installed was a factory unit remanufactured by CVC with a billet cover and stronger lockup clutch, model BU60FHD. Total cost out the door was $1400. I plan to run this transmission indefinitely, keeping the fluid fresh and monitoring it for signs of wear and struggle.

 

[Geotrash]

Hello again everyone.

I've been thinking about beefing up my 2011 Burb LT 2wd with 127k miles for quite some time. Now that I'm in the process in buying a small 10 acre ranch in North Dakota, I would like someone to steer me in the right direction on this build. So far, I've replaced all suspension components with oem, springs are stiffer, and maybe 2 inch taller, have bilstein 4600 shocks all around, new tires, recent alignment, new oem spark plugs and wires, new water pump, new belts, new pcv valve (but also have catch can), new differential oil, drained and filled trans oil 5 times, hellwig front and rear sway bars with end links, range technology dod disabler, new disc brakes and pads all around.

I just ordered oem trans cooler with hoses.

-Soon, I will buy Circle D torque converter with 1800-2000 stall
- Take it to a shop to rebuild the transmission
-3.73 gears (still not sure about the brand)

Later in the future:
-Stock L9H swap, but not sure if 3.73 gears would be useful in this engine.

The reason why I want to keep the burb is because it's rust-free, clean title, has all maintenance history, paid off (more money to build it better), I can haul my family as well as do work around the farm. Most importantly is that I had many opportunities to sell it (ive already had 5 decent offers that i said no to), but every time I wash it, or just get close to it, I can't see myself parting from it.

Any recommendations/thoughts? Or am I just crazy?

Also, congrats on the ranch! Where in ND? I spent many years working all around the state on drilling rigs (petroleum geologist), from Bowman, to Dickinson, and all the way to Bowbells. Y'all get some serious winters up there, or at least you used to. I used to say it keeps the riffraff out.

 

[Pyramid_Head]

I'm purchasing 20mins away from Williston. I'm still in the process, but if anything falls off in escrow, I also have other properties I'm interested in.

I'll look into just switching out the torque converter accordingly, installing the main seal, and if the LMG is worth deleting dod, and just slapping in a good truck cam, swap out 3.73 gears, then I'll do that than buying a used L9H.

I saw a torque converter being sold by Summit, but it's not from cvc, but vege. Is this a knock off?

VEGE Torque Converters BU60FHD VEGE Remanufactured Torque Converters | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - VEGE Remanufactured Torque Converters with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Torque Converters at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

 

[Marky Dissod]

If the plan is to keep it, it's almost always worth deleting Engine Half@$$,
even if you don't upgrade the cam.

 

[Geotrash]

I'm purchasing 20mins away from Williston. I'm still in the process, but if anything falls off in escrow, I also have other properties I'm interested in.

I'll look into just switching out the torque converter accordingly, installing the main seal, and if the LMG is worth deleting dod, and just slapping in a good truck cam, swap out 3.73 gears, then I'll do that than buying a used L9H.

I saw a torque converter being sold by Summit, but it's not from cvc, but vege. Is this a knock off?

VEGE Torque Converters BU60FHD VEGE Remanufactured Torque Converters | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - VEGE Remanufactured Torque Converters with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Torque Converters at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

I know that area well. Lots of dinosaur fossils around further south, too.

That's the same converter. VEGE bought out CVC.

If I may offer a recommendation for a truck cam, I have tried three. I ended up with the Cam Motion Stage 2 truck cam for my 2012 6.2L. It has a smooth idle but adds lots more power in the area I need it most, while towing. Cam Motion also makes a grind in the same cam specific to the 5.3, which is different than most manufacturers who market one grind as 'compatible' with the 4.8, 5.3, 6.0 & 6.2.