Intermittent No Crank No Start

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xposm1

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Looking for some help with my 2010 Tahoe LT 5.3 I apologize in advance for the long post, trying to provide all the info.

About a 2 weeks ago, I drove my Tahoe for about 20 mins and parked it for about 6-7 hrs. I went to start it and everything was dead. No interior lights, no power locks, etc and obviously no crank and no start. Thinking dead battery, I got a jump pack and it started right away.

Drove home no problems. I went to go start the car later that night(3 hrs later) and again no power door locks, no interior lights, etc and no crank and no start. No lights were left on both times so thought probably a weak battery(4 yr old battery) and didn't look more into it. The car sat overnight, and in the morning I went to go check it out some more, and to my surprise, everything worked(lights, power door locks) and the car started right up. So now I am at a loss of how a car that had no power 2x in the same day, miraculously gets power overnight and starts right up.

I checked the battery cable connections at the battery and they were clean and tight. Tested the battery was at 12.25-12.5 V. Had no problems since this occurrence. Only other electrical issue was back in December. I was driving, at night, at a low speed and coming to a stop sign. As I came to a stop, I went to go put my high beams on and all the dash lights and head lights went out for about 5-8 seconds and then came back on. However, I cannot remember now if the car shutoff, but if it did, it started right up. That was the only time it has done that.

Recently replaced the fuel pump(New OEM) about 6-7 months ago and replaced the alternator (New OEM). Replaced the alternator because I was getting the service battery charging system message at the time. Tested alternator and was not working properly. Replaced it and message has not come back. I am not getting any codes or messages.

I'm thinkin possible bad grounds/battery cables? I live in the Northeast and they love salt here. Want to see if anyone had similar issues, as now I'm afraid of getting stranded somewhere with this car.


Thanks for any help
 

Doubeleive

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Looking for some help with my 2010 Tahoe LT 5.3 I apologize in advance for the long post, trying to provide all the info.

About a 2 weeks ago, I drove my Tahoe for about 20 mins and parked it for about 6-7 hrs. I went to start it and everything was dead. No interior lights, no power locks, etc and obviously no crank and no start. Thinking dead battery, I got a jump pack and it started right away.

Drove home no problems. I went to go start the car later that night(3 hrs later) and again no power door locks, no interior lights, etc and no crank and no start. No lights were left on both times so thought probably a weak battery(4 yr old battery) and didn't look more into it. The car sat overnight, and in the morning I went to go check it out some more, and to my surprise, everything worked(lights, power door locks) and the car started right up. So now I am at a loss of how a car that had no power 2x in the same day, miraculously gets power overnight and starts right up.

I checked the battery cable connections at the battery and they were clean and tight. Tested the battery was at 12.25-12.5 V. Had no problems since this occurrence. Only other electrical issue was back in December. I was driving, at night, at a low speed and coming to a stop sign. As I came to a stop, I went to go put my high beams on and all the dash lights and head lights went out for about 5-8 seconds and then came back on. However, I cannot remember now if the car shutoff, but if it did, it started right up. That was the only time it has done that.

Recently replaced the fuel pump(New OEM) about 6-7 months ago and replaced the alternator (New OEM). Replaced the alternator because I was getting the service battery charging system message at the time. Tested alternator and was not working properly. Replaced it and message has not come back. I am not getting any codes or messages.

I'm thinkin possible bad grounds/battery cables? I live in the Northeast and they love salt here. Want to see if anyone had similar issues, as now I'm afraid of getting stranded somewhere with this car.


Thanks for any help
ya possibly battery cables, they corrode from the inside so you can't tell or maybe fuse box connection, ground strap somewhere.
can't say yes it is this when there is a intermittent issue. sometimes it takes a bit more troubleshooting with a meter and sometimes a shotgun approach works too

it's worth noting that even IF the battery cables/connections look ok they CAN hide corrosion very well, best to unbolt them and wire brush both the terminals and cable ends
do the same with any terminals on the positive post, ground strap to block. you can pull the fuse box top off and look under at the pins and see if there is any hidden corrosion there also.
 

NardDog

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Agree with the above comment about the engine ground strap on top near the firewall. Those can corrode and break. I would check voltage from block to positive battery. Consider big 3/4 upgrade.
 
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xposm1

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Thanks everyone for the responses.

Agree with the above comment about the engine ground strap on top near the firewall. Those can corrode and break. I would check voltage from block to positive battery. Consider big 3/4 upgrade.

I have been meaning to do the big 3 upgrade for a while now. This will help me get motivated. Does this sound right in regards to the big 3:
Replace the ground from neg battery to engine block, neg battery to frame, then the positive cable to the alternator? I would also replace the positive wire to the starter and the ground strap on the engine to the firewall. How hard is it to replace the engine ground strap? some videos make it seem its very hard to get the bolt out of the engine, due to tight space. Thanks again
 
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xposm1

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ya possibly battery cables, they corrode from the inside so you can't tell or maybe fuse box connection, ground strap somewhere.
can't say yes it is this when there is a intermittent issue. sometimes it takes a bit more troubleshooting with a meter and sometimes a shotgun approach works too

it's worth noting that even IF the battery cables/connections look ok they CAN hide corrosion very well, best to unbolt them and wire brush both the terminals and cable ends
do the same with any terminals on the positive post, ground strap to block. you can pull the fuse box top off and look under at the pins and see if there is any hidden corrosion there also.
Thank you! I want to replace the ground straps on the engine. I know there is one that goes to the firewall, are there more than one? I am also wanting to add another ground wire from the engine to the frame.
 

Doubeleive

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Thank you! I want to replace the ground straps on the engine. I know there is one that goes to the firewall, are there more than one? I am also wanting to add another ground wire from the engine to the frame.
other than the battery ground to passenger head and frame then there is
just one from body to block on the drivers rear side as far as I know.
 

NardDog

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Thanks everyone for the responses.



I have been meaning to do the big 3 upgrade for a while now. This will help me get motivated. Does this sound right in regards to the big 3:
Replace the ground from neg battery to engine block, neg battery to frame, then the positive cable to the alternator? I would also replace the positive wire to the starter and the ground strap on the engine to the firewall. How hard is it to replace the engine ground strap? some videos make it seem its very hard to get the bolt out of the engine, due to tight space. Thanks again
Sounds like your on the right track. For my ground strap I left it alone and I found another bolt on the back of the engine and grounded it to the firewall.
 

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