Knee deep in first transmission rebuild, opinions welcomed.

[Fless]

Top notch information, as always. Transparts is sending me the proper replacement and I think part of my goof was incorrect snap ring, though I'm gonna want to swap out some parts of the stack. Should I swap steels first or clutches? Does placement matter as far as toward the top or bottom?

Man, I could spend forever picking your brain and still learn something new. This build is my first and it's going to be fairly stock ish. I'm building a solid foundation and next will be the unit out of my son's 00 z/28 which we are going to experiment with more mods. It really is fun learning how all of it works, even if there is so much packed in haha. Anyways, thanks for your support!

Need to be sure to tag @NickTransmissions or he might not see it.

 

[osirus5164]

@NickTransmissions funny story, I think my kit came with the alto power pack as well as stock .80 frictions, not sure why. So narrowing down, I should just be swapping out steels for adjustment, correct? Guess I'll just hold on to those stockers. The plan is to use your video from about 6 months ago as a reference. I have 4 .076 steels to swap out of necessary. Is the recommendation to swap those with steels from the center of the stack as necessary? Again, thanks for all the help!

 

[osirus5164]

Just the clearance to about.028, I think. I suck with the dial indicator but if I left up and hold my calipers to it I am seeing about .028. dial is around .030 but keeps moving on the table.

 

[NickTransmissions]

Just the clearance to about.028, I think. I suck with the dial indicator but if I left up and hold my calipers to it I am seeing about .028. dial is around .030 but keeps moving on the table.

Follow the recommendations in this video - it gives you all the information you need to set up a robust 3-4 clutch pack:

 

[osirus5164]

@NickTransmissions so I have a stack for .036 or .032 clearance, I imagine either one is splitting hairs at that point. Load release springs going back in as that was the goal. I kinda have a stupid question though and I'm kicking myself for not making a note of it during teardown. Clearance looks good and everything measures spot on when I air check it but I noticed the sprag assembly has a lot of play within the drum. Like I can move it up and down maybe a quarter inch or so. Is that normal? It locks up clockwise and free spins counter clockwise like it's supposed to. **Edit** talked to a guy at a local transmission shop today and he answered this one for me. All good!

Made a quick video because I'm terrible at explaining:

 

[osirus5164]

@NickTransmissions so I ended up switching to a 7 friction setup as it was advised that the 9 friction might not be the advisable on something heavier like a Tahoe. .033 clearance but with the .125 plate on top, the stack is so tall that the springs don't really apply pressure to it. Are there longer springs than the sonnax replacements? Or is the very slight pressure all that's needed? As always any input is appreciated .

the amount that it pushes against that top plate is razor thin. I have another 700R4 steel I could swap out one of the .106 s for to add another .030 but that would be a bit heavy, correct?

 

[osirus5164]

Later thought I had was to maybe take off. 015-.030 off the spring retainers to expose that spring just a hair. Feasible?

 

[NickTransmissions]

@NickTransmissions so I ended up switching to a 7 friction setup as it was advised that the 9 friction might not be the advisable on something heavier like a Tahoe. .033 clearance but with the .125 plate on top, the stack is so tall that the springs don't really apply pressure to it. Are there longer springs than the sonnax replacements? Or is the very slight pressure all that's needed? As always any input is appreciated .

the amount that it pushes against that top plate is razor thin. I have another 700R4 steel I could swap out one of the .106 s for to add another .030 but that would be a bit heavy, correct?

I think that's a good move. I really dont like those super-thin frictions and steels. The 7-clutch 4L65E spec pack using Alto Reds or High Energy clutches are good to go for most applications. Unless you're pushing real hogh horsepower and not using the high rate return springs, I'd just install the factory load release springs. Keep the clearance as you have it in the .028-.035 range.

 

[osirus5164]

@NickTransmissions yeah I kinda changed directions on the fly with this one but it makes sense. I just wasn't sure what kinda pressure those springs would need to be applying in order to be effective. The frictions aren't 4l65e spec which I guess is what's making this a bigger. I'm hopeful though. I have a pump body I can rebuild now and I'd like to be excited to assemble finally lmao. Do you lubricate or presoak your Teflon seals when you install them? I have to redo the stator seals but I prepared and got extra beforehand. As always, thanks for the advice!

I think that's a good move. I really dont like those super-thin frictions and steels. The 7-clutch 4L65E spec pack using Alto Reds or High Energy clutches are good to go for most applications. Unless you're pushing real hogh horsepower and not using the high rate return springs, I'd just install the factory load release springs. Keep the clearance as you have it in the .028-.035 range.