Leak

[bigdaddyyukon]

Rear heat.

Gotcha. Thank you.

 

[bigdaddyyukon]

easiest way to do that is too take a pair of long needle nose pliers and break the small thin black plastic off behind the white clip makes the job 5 minutes instead of try to use some special tool that NEVER works and fighting with it for an hour, in 20 plus years they haven't come up with a better design I guess for assembly line work it makes it super fast to assemble.

 

[bigdaddyyukon]

so are you saying to break the tee before the heater core so the clip is easier to remove?

 

[Doubeleive]

so are you saying to break the tee before the heater core so the clip is easier to remove?

no if you look at the "T" there is a white clip inside the black housing, on the end of the black housing closer to the firewall there is a thin black piece (where the slot is exposing the white part inside) break that thin black piece off on both sides it makes the job much easier, matter of fact once you do that you can just snip away it until you can just pull it off, it's all plastic except the inside aluminum tube's, see photo

 

[bigdaddyyukon]

no if you look at the "T" there is a white clip inside the black housing, on the end of the black housing closer to the firewall there is a thin black piece (where the slot is exposing the white part inside) break that thin black piece off on both sides it makes the job much easier, matter of fact once you do that you can just snip away it until you can just pull it off, it's all plastic except the inside aluminum tube's, see photo

View attachment 207932

Ok, now I understand. Thank you much.

 

[kbuskill]

Why not just bypass them totally? A few guys on here have done that.

My LTZ has rear heat so the T connectors are kinda necessary... lol

 

[bigdaddyyukon]

Well, I want to thank all of you for the help in me fixing my issue. I changed the one tee. ( 15 mins ) and as of right now no more leaks. Again. Thank you much. Pic was taken a few days ago. Just wanted to show what I was working on. Again, thank you much.

 

[89Suburban]

Another thing to keep an eye out for with a leak behind the front passenger tire like that is the actual hard line that connects to those tee's can corroded or get rub though hole in them and start leaking which mine is doing. Somebody slipped a rubber heater hose over the affected area with a few clamps but it still get's wet. One of my to do projects.

 

[kbuskill]

X2......

Funny thing is the black and white connectors are interchangeable...

Not sure why they made them different colors other than to differentiate which hose goes to which side of the heater core.... which shouldn't make any difference at all. The heater core doesn't care which direction the coolant flows through it.

Either way, I digress... I have read where some people theorized that the black plastic material was less prone to cracking and getting brittle than the white plastic material.... or perhaps it was the other way around... anyway I think when I did mine I used the black ones on both if I remember correctly.

If I ever do them again I will probably get brass fittings and try to make my own.

Now that is something Gruven should build.

Just thought I would post this up in here since I mentioned here the other day.

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/gruven-heater-core-t-connectors.107087/

Check it out.

 

[Rocket Man]

Just thought I would post this up in here since I mentioned here the other day.

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/gruven-heater-core-t-connectors.107087/

Check it out.

My stockers have lasted 16 years, just saying. I doubt anyone can make any that last longer, but even so 10-15 years for plastic that has hot fluid flowing through is pretty damn good.