List of Repairs - DIY or Mechanic?

[jsoltren]

Yep. Sounds right. I got my 2001 Denali with 170k miles and had to do a bunch of that stuff.

I paid for it. I have three kids, and they're too young to help. Man am I looking forward to the day that they're more of an asset than a liability in the garage.

 

[jsoltren]

Oh, and, factor in cost of tools, both acquisition cost, and storage cost.

 

[zwanzon]

Hey guys, I wanted to give an update on this thread for anyone that may be looking to do some of the same repairs themselves.

Summary/Notes of suspension parts I upgraded:

1. Front shocks and springs
   - Shocks replaced with Bilstein 5100's (24-186940) Amazon $95.07 each
   - Set to the second notch
   - Springs replaced with Moog 81244 'Heavy Duty' springs - Amazon $79.78 pair
   - Top hat nut was a PITA but doable without a special tool
   - Used the normal spring compressor rental tool from Autozone (use an impact wrench to tighten/loosen)
   - Raised the Tahoe about 1"+
2. Rear shocks and springs
   - Shocks replaced with Bilstein 5100's (24-187237) Amazon $66.32 each
   - Very easy to replace the rear shocks, find a good YouTube video to follow.
   - Instead of dropping the whole rear axle, I used the same spring compressor to compress the spring, take it out, compress new spring, put it in. It was actually very easy.
   - Only needed 2 spring insulators (not 8!) for the bottom of each rear spring. Moog K160072 - Amazon $7.97 each
3. Front Lower Ball Joints
   - Moog K500007 - Amazon $26.41 each
   - Used ball joint remover rental tool from Autozone. Pretty straight forward.
   - BE SURE to point the grease nipple forward. Forgot to do this on the left side and had to take everything apart to pump grease into it.
   - Write down the order of operations. The left side took me 3 times as long as the right side.
   - Rented Axel Nut socket 36mm from O'Reillys. Found out you just can buy one at Home Depot for like $6.
   - Add a little bit of anti-seize to axel teeth before putting it back into the hub.
4. Upper Control Arms
   - Rough Country Forged UCA 19401 - $249
   - Ordered the wrong ones the first time around. Be sure to check your UCA with a magnet to see if you have steel or aluminum. Magnet sticks = Steel. Choose the correct option from their website.
   - Ended up needing new camber plates and bolt for one side of one control arm. Be sure you have these lined up somewhere before hand. Got mine from O'Reillys for $35 (SPC brand)
   
5. Leveling Parts
   - Purchased but have not installed RoughCountry 2" front leveling kit (1307) Amazon $54.08- going to install once I get new tires in a couple months.
   - Purchased but have not installed Belltech 35323 Spring Distance Kit (1") Amazon $36.32 - going to install once I get new tires.
6. Undercar front shield
   - Amazon knockoff for OE: 22781371 - $20.36
   - Quality was great
   - Took 3 minutes to replace

 

[zwanzon]

While doing these upgrades I noticed some oil spots on the ground. I'm wondering if anyone can help me narrow down what part it could be coming from.

These spots accumulated over like 3 days so the leak is rather bad. I don't understand how what I did would have created it, but oh well.

I did check the oil drain bolt and it was tight...

 

[kbuskill]

Replace drain plug washer.

 

[Derick]

I've got a similar issue. I hate these rubber orings on the drain plugs...I'm used to crush washers...so I think it might be coming from there.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@zwanzon Hello I just came across this thread. New to me 08 tahoe looking to refresh the suspension. Besides what you have documented in this thread is there any input that you could impart onto a new Tahoe owner looking to undertake these tasks? I have both sets of springs accounted for as well as bilsteins picked out. Also do you have any pictures of the finished product when it was all said and done?

 

[Glisella]

While doing these upgrades I noticed some oil spots on the ground. I'm wondering if anyone can help me narrow down what part it could be coming from.

These spots accumulated over like 3 days so the leak is rather bad. I don't understand how what I did would have created it, but oh well.

I did check the oil drain bolt and it was tight...

on your first photo, I noticed the bolt near the starter looks like it has oil on it...possibly leak coming from further up? Bolt is around the 1 O'Clock position in first photo that you marked with an arrow.

 

[CtoHorn]

While doing these upgrades I noticed some oil spots on the ground. I'm wondering if anyone can help me narrow down what part it could be coming from.

These spots accumulated over like 3 days so the leak is rather bad. I don't understand how what I did would have created it, but oh well.

I did check the oil drain bolt and it was tight...

That's the rear main seal leaking. Probably due to cold weather. I used Blue Devil rear main sealer and it stopped my leak in about 50 miles of driving after a oil change. I've driven 2400 miles since and it's still holding

 

[Sstevieboy0208]

That's the rear main seal leaking. Probably due to cold weather. I used Blue Devil rear main sealer and it stopped my leak in about 50 miles of driving after a oil change. I've driven 2400 miles since and it's still holding

How is it holding up ? i have a similar issue and wanted to know if i should try it ?