Looking at 90k and up Burbs for 2nd truck - what would your game plan be?

[TahoeFL2017]

I'm looking at 2017 to 2020 Suburban's and Yukon XL's with the 5.3

Basically need another 4x4 for mostly city driving and some road trips around Florida, and the used ones from the previous gen look like a great value.

I've got 103k flawless miles on my 2017 Tahoe, with the 6 speed. Just AC condenser and a motor mount in the last 80k miles, and AFM has been disabled since 38k miles.

I'm looking at LT's with the 5.3, and wondering what you would look out for - lifter tics, 8 speed trans, anything else?

I see 200k mile rigs online for sale, pretty regularly in the AFM years, so not hugely worried - seems like disabling the AFM and changing the oil before 5k miles keeps them alive.

What would you do?

I plan on buying a 90k truck and if it's 6 speed and not ticking, I'll take it.

Anything else to worry about? Interior, 4x4, electronics, suspension, etc?
Anything else under the hood, besides the AFM and Trans?

Is a warranty worth a damn at 90k miles, or is it only aftermarket warranties and no GM PP at that mileage?
Are the aftermarket warranties worth it or garbage?
Appreciate your input - I'm seeing a lot of clean Burb's in FL and some look immaculate, so my trigger finger is getting itchy!

 

[SpyShops212]

Go for the 10 speed transmission or look for one that had the transmission already replaced if you go for the 6 or 8 speed. Check the oil pressure and make sure it’s between 25-30 psi at idle.

 

[Sundancer]

I am in the same boat. I have a 2011 LTZ which I have enjoyed for 14 years with 172k on it, in excellent conditions. I have had no issues with it except the last 2months where it’s been at the Chevy dealer 3 times. Replaced the battery, the TPS, the Mass Air Flow sensor and the throttle body and still having starting issues. I am not super mechanically inclined like most of the folks here, don’t know where to turn to as the dealer can’t find the issue, so my only choice is to move on.

 

[Fless]

I am in the same boat. I have a 2011 LTZ which I have enjoyed for 14 years with 172k on it, in excellent conditions. I have had no issues with it except the last 2months where it’s been at the Chevy dealer 3 times. Replaced the battery, the TPS, the Mass Air Flow sensor and the throttle body and still having starting issues. I am not super mechanically inclined like most of the folks here, don’t know where to turn to as the dealer can’t find the issue, so my only choice is to move on.

Maybe if you described the starting issues with some detail here we could make some suggestions. Otherwise you might try another dealer, or a trusted independent shop.

 

[CMoore711]

@TahoeFL2017 What’s driving your interest in a Suburban?
Need the extra space?
Do you plan on keeping the Tahoe and adding a Suburban?

Any particular reason you want to stay with the 5.3?

I would be looking for an ‘18-‘20 Premier, High Country, or even an RST with the 6.2 L86 and 10 speed.

 

[Sundancer]

Maybe if you described the starting issues with some detail here we could make some suggestions. Otherwise you might try another dealer, or a trusted independent shop.

Well, for some background, the truck has been serviced meticulously over the years to include tune ups, tires, oil change, transmission oil/filter, gear box fluid,. In November I got a check Engine light and it would not start as usual until about 2 -3 attempts to include remote start. Since we were visiting friends in Richmond, VA 4 hours away, I took it to Auto Zone for a Quick scan and it said: Code: P0122 -Throttle Position Sensor (TPS).Since I was far from my mechanic that usually services my truck, I purchased the aftermarket TPS an installed it in the driveway in about 40 minutes as per the A1Auto video that I saw, careful to make sure that it was all aligned properly. The truck ran perfect for 3 weeks and then it started again, 2 - 3 attempts and once started it would be fine, rpms alittle down past 1000 when idling in park. I took it to my mechanic and he suggested that I take it to the Chevy dealer which I knew was going to be painful but he did not have the proper diagnostic equipment to figure the problem. Took it without an appointment and after 3 days, they said it was the battery which was only 3 years old but what the heck and after $350 install, I picked up the truck and it worked perfectly for 1 week and boom, it started acting up the same. Back to the dealer and now 5 days later and $515. the mass air flow sensor was replaced and the so called 100 plus point check free of charge. Out the door for another week and the same issue and back to the dealer, who calls and says: that my throttle body needs to be replaced and away we go. I pick the car up 2 days later and $725. later and it works fine for 5 days and right back to the dealer, The dealer says they will diagnosis again and he calls me back the next day that my car needs a fuel pump. I did not replace the fuel pump as it had been replaced by my mechanic about 8 months prior but I did not tell the dealer. Although the weather here in in NY has been super cold, when it has gone above 35, it starts on the first shot but then it usually give me a hard time during the day when I attempt to start it during the course of my day.

 

[Geotrash]

Well, for some background, the truck has been serviced meticulously over the years to include tune ups, tires, oil change, transmission oil/filter, gear box fluid,. In November I got a check Engine light and it would not start as usual until about 2 -3 attempts to include remote start. Since we were visiting friends in Richmond, VA 4 hours away, I took it to Auto Zone for a Quick scan and it said: Code: P0122 -Throttle Position Sensor (TPS).Since I was far from my mechanic that usually services my truck, I purchased the aftermarket TPS an installed it in the driveway in about 40 minutes as per the A1Auto video that I saw, careful to make sure that it was all aligned properly. The truck ran perfect for 3 weeks and then it started again, 2 - 3 attempts and once started it would be fine, rpms alittle down past 1000 when idling in park. I took it to my mechanic and he suggested that I take it to the Chevy dealer which I knew was going to be painful but he did not have the proper diagnostic equipment to figure the problem. Took it without an appointment and after 3 days, they said it was the battery which was only 3 years old but what the heck and after $350 install, I picked up the truck and it worked perfectly for 1 week and boom, it started acting up the same. Back to the dealer and now 5 days later and $515. the mass air flow sensor was replaced and the so called 100 plus point check free of charge. Out the door for another week and the same issue and back to the dealer, who calls and says: that my throttle body needs to be replaced and away we go. I pick the car up 2 days later and $725. later and it works fine for 5 days and right back to the dealer, The dealer says they will diagnosis again and he calls me back the next day that my car needs a fuel pump. I did not replace the fuel pump as it had been replaced by my mechanic about 8 months prior but I did not tell the dealer. Although the weather here in in NY has been super cold, when it has gone above 35, it starts on the first shot but then it usually give me a hard time during the day when I attempt to start it during the course of my day.

Do you know the details of the fuel pump part number they used? We've seen people having problems with aftermarket pumps after a relatively short while.

 

[SpyShops212]

Pay now and get the 10 speed or pay later 6-8k for a transmission and the value of your truck won’t be there since it will be a pre-2018. Also I get excellent mpg on my 2018 Escalade 6.2 10 speed. I average 16.1 and on the highway I get 23-25 mpg. I have to say my 2018 is 30-40% better then my 2008 6 speed. My 2018 Escalade has better mpg then my new 2024 Ascent.

 

[Bigkevschopshop]

Honestly, I would look at service history on the carfax, check for fluid changes, oil changes etc. Big one is to make sure the trans fluid has been changed in whatever you get. At 90k you can change the fluid and do the cooler bypass reprogram kit to get the temps down and prolong the life of the fluid, as HEAT is the killer of all transmissions.

6 speed on 5.3 is tried and true, and as long as the AC works good, no ticks, no smoke, and shifts good Id do it. 4x4 should have the 3.42 gears I think so in suburban form it wont be a slug.

If you do go 6.2 its a bit more work all around with some added things to look out for. The power is nice and addictive. I personally went 8 speed on my rig, the 10 speed has some hunting for gears sometimes, and its ALOT of shifting.

The big difference in LT vs LTZ or Yukon Denali etc, is the MRC suspension. Honestly I would do air leveling suspension and not do a MRC anything due to the cost of struts and shocks. At 90k area it will need them sooner than later.

 

[Carfan]

My 2020 Suburban Premier has the 10 speed and the 6.2. I heartily recommend it.

It isn't getting 23 or more MPG on the highway but that could be because it only has 40k miles on it. I'm getting more like 22. It does get much better gas mileage than our 2017 Nissan Titan though.