Looking at buying NBS Hoe/Kon; questions

[nimrod.sixty9]

In the market again for another Tahoe or Yukon and have a few questions;

I see there are third row options.
Ill be damned if I can find a pic showing before and after seats are removed.
No use for them so wanna see if there are differences other than just having the option.
Some of the middle seats are split to get in the rear, can the third row seat replace them so they will be just like the non-third row option?

Other than XL model; do any of the overall lengths ever change?

Is there any external indicators of what engine they would have?
People posting vehicles are mostly morons; everything is a 'V8'.
Same goes for the 4x4. Ive been scoping out the push button on the dash.

At about the miles the earth begins to reclaim them?

Do any of the 6.0 Denali's have the 4l80e (or any others for that matter)?

Ive noticed many seem lower in the front. Does it require a kit to level? Crank torsion bars?

Appreciate any other buying input!
TIA

 

[adventurenali92]

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...g-a-00-06-nbs-tahoe-suburban-look-here.61834/
Read through this thread. It will answer your “at what age does the earth start to claim them?” question. It also lists what engine options came in what year, and trim package vehicles. To answer another question, the 4L80 trans I believe was put in a few scarce early built 2002 model year Yukon xl denalis from what I’ve heard. However I don’t have anything to back that up for whether it’s fact or not. As far is I’ve seen through research here and on vehicles I looked at for sale, the only way you’re getting a 4L80 transmission is if you’re looking at a 2500 model suburban or Yukon xl. All the half ton, 1500 models you’re looking at will have a 4L60E transmission. Except for the Denali package Yukons and Escalade models in this generation. The 6.0s in these trucks are mated to a 4L65E trans, which is slightly beefier to handle the extra power. This is all spelled out in the thread I referenced as well.
No third row seats will not fit in the second row. The way they bolt into the floor is different than the mid row seats. You will want to look for a second row bench seat equipped suv. They are pretty common in the non Denali Yukons and Tahoes.

 

[nimrod.sixty9]

I read the post and no, it did not reference the transmissions nor does it cover any external identifiers.

I will consider some 3rd row optioned as it looks like the second row is a full row on most if seen now that Im looking for it.
Just removing the third row would keep me happy.
Not to mention I dont have the option to mark them off my list of possibilities.
Seems only 25% are 4x4 and the rest is rust, garbage, super high mileage, unrealistically expensive, or any of that combination.

 

[nimrod.sixty9]

With the Denali AWD. Does it have a different transfer case? Does it need additional attention vs non-awd models. Im looking for longevity more then anything.

 

[Thouse]

I have no technical expertise but I have read many times on buy threads where people warn of the Denali's AWD system eating itself.

They don't ever really come to a conclusion on how many miles are "safe" on these diffs. They recommend flushing them right after buying.

 

[adventurenali92]

With the Denali AWD. Does it have a different transfer case? Does it need additional attention vs non-awd models. Im looking for longevity more then anything.

There wouldn’t be any external modifiers as to what engine option it would have. You’d need to look at the RPO stickers to see what engine and trans options a specific vehicle has. Pretty much all the Tahoe’s and suburban, will have the 5.3L V8. Unless you’re looking at a 2006 LTZ package suburban. Which is super rare. Those came with a 6.0L V8, 4L65E trans and AWD. The non Denali Yukons and XLs will have the 5.3 as well. The denalis and Escalade models will have the 6.0. As to the AWD equipped trucks, the transfer case is different. It’s full time AWD with no selectable modes. At higher mileage it’s a well know issue that the differentials eat themselves up. Many threads on replacing them. It’s fairly easy. At 117k on my 2006 AWD Denali XL, I have yet to experience any differential issues.

 

[adriver]

Tahoes, Yukons, and Escalades are all short wheel base, same thing. Escalades and Denalis will all have leather, a nicer interior, and your only way to get a 6.0 in one of these GM820 body styles from fractory. Suburbans, Yukon XL and escalade ESV are long wheel base. The avalanche and Escalade EXT are the adjustable pickups and are also long wheel base.

Tahoes and Yukons (NON-Denali) were only 2wd or 4wd,
Escalades were 2wd (which is rare) or AWD.
Denalis were all AWD (2001-2006)

All of these came with a V8, so anyone who tells you that is a little uninformed and wasting time..
You can always tell externally (if its right in front of you) by looking at the VIN under the windshield on the drivers side dash, or if its listed in an ad. The 8th digit on the VIN is your engine identifier.

VIN # 8th digit
V 4.8
T 5.3
Z 5.3 FF
U 6.0 LQ4
N 6.0 LQ9

 

[CountryBoy19]

Tahoes, Yukons, and Escalades are all short wheel base, same thing. Escalades and Denalis will all have leather, a nicer interior, and your only way to get a 6.0 in one of these GM820 body styles from fractory. Suburbans, Yukon XL and escalade ESV are long wheel base. The avalanche and Escalade EXT are the adjustable pickups and are also long wheel base.

Tahoes and Yukons (NON-Denali) were only 2wd or 4wd,
Escalades were 2wd (which is rare) or AWD.
Denalis were all AWD (2001-2006)

All of these came with a V8, so anyone who tells you that is a little uninformed and wasting time..
You can always tell externally (if its right in front of you) by looking at the VIN under the windshield on the drivers side dash, or if its listed in an ad. The 8th digit on the VIN is your engine identifier.

VIN # 8th digit
V 4.8
T 5.3
Z 5.3 FF
U 6.0 LQ4
N 6.0 LQ9

In addition to this, you can generally also figure out the engine by the drivetrain.

IE, AFAIK, the AWD models were always coupled with the 6.0L engine and the only way to get the 6.0L was to get the AWD. Vice-verse for the 5.3L and the 4WD & 2WD models. Only way to get a 5.3L was with the non-AWD models.

Some Tahoe/Yukon models that are 2WD/4WD have the 4.8L but I don't believe the 4.8L was an option for the Suburban/Yukon XL (both long wheel-base) models.

Another way to determine engine (and ALL other options) is to get them to send a picture of the RPO code stick located in the glovebox. It lists numerous 3-digit alphanumeric codes (IE, LQ9 & LQ4 both mean 6.0 engine, GT5 means 4.10;1 gear ratio, etc). You can find master RPO lists on various forums etc so you can decode what options each vehicle has. Or if you're looking for a specific option like Premium Smooth-ride suspension (ZW7) you can just see at a glance if that code is on the sticker.

 

[adriver]

The escalade had the 6.0 with RWD. It is a rare find though; My guess is less than 10% of escalades, probably less than 5%.

 

[CountryBoy19]

The RPO code for the 4L80-E is either MT1 or MN8 (both are listed in my RPO master list but I'm not sure which one of those would have been included in the GMT800 style SUVs. The MN8 is listed as Heavy-Duty if that makes a difference.

M30 is the 4L60-E
MD6 is the 4L65-E which I think would only be in one that has the 6.0L (not positive about the rare 6.0L RWD Escalade mentioned above but it would make sense that one may also have the slightly heavier transmission).


Engines, I'm not even going to try to back-trace all the engines because there are TONS of them listed in the RPO list.

NP8 is the 2-speed transfer case (IE, that would indicate 4WD, not AWD)

Raising the front can be done a small amount by turning the bolts holding the torsion bar keys. If you want to raise a lot, or if the torsion bars are showing some wear (out of adjustment range) then you'll have to get different keys put on to get more adjustment. Keys are cheap, the labor to put them in is a bit more involved.

I'm having trouble understanding your actual issue/question with the 3rd row seat. The 3rd row seat folds and lifts out quite easily making the rear a large, open space. If you don't want the 3rd row seat then just take it out. If you don't want to store it, sell it; just realize that w/o the 3rd row seat you really narrow who may be interested in buying it if you ever decided to sell it. Most people buy these vehicles because they want more seating. After removing the seat the only thing you'll have to deal with are the 3 little "attachment points" recessed into the floor of the cargo area. IMHO, those aren't a big deal and a cargo area liner/mat will cover them up.