Looking for a high output alternator.....

[Doubeleive]

@Doubeleive and @SnowDrifter , How do you test the output of an alternator? And Yes, I did a big 3 + about a month ago, with OFC (welding wire). I say + because I ran a new ground to the frame and one to the body, in addition to the one to the engine block. I also ran a ground from the engine block (alternator mount) to the body, where the wire strap mounts. The grounding eliminated my stereo system whine through the speakers. Let me know how to measure the amps coming from the alternator. I have a voltage meter, but don't really know how to use it (duh). Thanks in advance!

for AMP's output I would say a clamp meter, otherwise I think something would have to go -inline- from the alternator output to the battery but I am no expert, voltage is easy just put it on DC and check you battery voltage with the engine and key off, then start the truck and check it again, the battery should have 12+ stagnant and then 13~14+ with the engine running

 

[SnowDrifter]

To check alternator output, you need to apply a load the that maxes it out. This could be a synthetic load via a resistor or you can see if you can dip voltage into the 12.x range and hold it there.

Once you do that, out a DC clamp meter over all the wires coming off the positive stud from the alt. Do it at idle, and revved at 2k. Both cold start and hot. Note for hot: do it after stop and go type stuff. Not freeway driving. Alternator temperature isn't related to engine temp. If you're driving in the freeway the alt will be cool enough to touch.

Hot and cold, idle and 2k.

Why?

- alternator current dropping off significantly while hot indicates poor cooling and thermal management. I wouldn't trust it. I. E. The alt is overheating

- idle vs. Revved: pretty common issue with cheap alts. They (might) do rated when revved but fall flat on their face at idle. It's a good test to determine a unit's suitability in a daily driver scenario. For example, you could build an alternator to make 500 amps at 2k rpm. But the effective turn on speed for it would be above idle and you'd get literally zero output. I had a custom application in my old Subaru. 390 amp custom built alt in it. I got a custom crank pulley tooled up that was 7.5" diameter rather than the stock 5.5" to achieve my desired idle output and cooling for the alt. On the stock pulley, idle output was just under 10 amps. I knew that going in, but I feel it's worth mentioning for the sake of relevance.

 

[Leo1103]

Singer Alternators, CES Alternators, Mechman, and DC Power are all solid options. Not sure about the current turnaround time with DC though. I have personally always ran Singer but if i was to ever switch it would be to CES both companies have phenomenal customer service

 

[BG1988]

I'm looking to upgrade my oem alternator to a high wattage alternator. Has anyone done this?

Can you give me pointers/links to good ones?

Thanks in advance!

Wendal

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

you will have to get Yukon hybird it has a 60KW Alternator

you can power a small neighborhood with it..

 

[the_tool_man]

Don't forget to do your big 3 upgrade! Use OFC. If I see you use CCA I'll kick you in the ding ding

What do OFC and CCA mean? I know what a big 3 upgrade is. But I want to make sure I do it right.

 

[SnowDrifter]

What do OFC and CCA mean? I know what a big 3 upgrade is. But I want to make sure I do it right.

Car audio wires typically come in 3 flavors

1. OFC, or oxygen free copper. i.e. purified copper - wiring grade. This is your standard wire and what OEMs use. You can use welding cable and it will be sized appropriately and OFC - typically has a cost advantage at the expense of flexibility.

2. Tinned OFC - the expensive stuff, can also be called marine grade. This is copper wire that has been tin plated. The plating is thin and doesn't show any measurable difference in conductivity, but it acts to give the wire fantastic corrosion resistance. This is what I use, personally.

3. CCA, or copper clad aluminum - the cheap stuff. A sheep in wolf's clothing. This is aluminum wire with a coating of copper on it, typically found in a ratio of 90% aluminum 10% copper. It's generally at an attractive price point, somewhere around 60 to 70% the cost of OFC. Whereas you might pay $3.50/foot for good tinned OFC 0 gauge, CCA would be closer to $2/foot. The issue with this wire, is that copper and aluminum are well known and documented to cause galvanic corrosion to each other. In other words, this wire rusts from the inside out. Due to the aluminum, it also doesn't solder. So that means if you want to use it, you need to invest anywhere between 60 and 100 bucks on a crimper and lugs. Which brings me to a point I want to make on termination


Take pride in how you terminate your wire. Either grab a blow torch and learn to solder open ended lugs, or invest in a hydraulic crimper and use closed ended lugs. Please, for the love of god, do not half ass it and use pliers or a bench vice or hammer thing or bolt cutters or any other nonsense. I don't care if the neighbor does it without issue. That just means he hasn't had an issue yet. If I had a dollar every time I was diagnosing wiring and found it was due to someone's lame termination, I'd be a rich man. Without going into great detail, a good connection should be gas/air-tight. In the case of solder, the solder bonds itself to both the wire and your terminal lug, acting as an intermediate. In the case of a crimp, the pressure applied is great enough to actually cold weld the wire. If you need more clarification or want a run through of the pros/cons of each method, let me know! I have a fair bit of experience with the stuff. Wiring that I've done nearly a decade ago when I started is still in service today in perfect condition. Do it once, do it right. Chasing wiring issues will make you more sad than anything

 

[the_tool_man]

Car audio wires typically come in 3 flavors...

Wow. Thanks for that.