Looking for brake upgrade

[saxart]

2011 Suburban LT - Approx 100K miles

I'm looking for a good "middle of the road" brake upgrade for our Burb. At 100K its due for new brakes anyway, so I figure now is a good time to upgrade.

We had it in Colorado last week, and the brakes on this truck have always been HORRIBLE in the mountains. They overheat and start pulsing really bad after just the first downhill mountain pass. It's time to put an end to that.

I don't need a $2,500 Wilwood brake upgrade, just something that's better than the factory equipment. Does anybody have a recommendation for a decent brake upgrade. Probably looking for pads and rotors only.

Thanks!

 

[08HoeCD]

You'll get a dozen different recommendations.

Look at Stoptech slotted rotors paired with Hawk HP Super Duty pads. A step up from stock; not very costly; good technology & design; great, long-lasting stopping power.

 

[saxart]

Thanks, that's a great start. Anyone else wanna chime in?

 

[CrashTestDummy]

Completely bleed the brake system. Brake fluid will absorb water, and with that water, the boiling point drops significantly, which may have contributed to your braking issues in Colorado.

 

[#1taho]

I have heard great reviews on R1 concepts. I have similar Canadian version and two years later little wear and still look like new. And X2 on what crashteatdummy said. Blead fluid and use a good dot 3 or 4

 

[Jason_S]

What Crash Test Dummy said. Change your brake fluid. I used to be a fan of switching between the super gold and the super blue fluid, but the super blue has gone the way of the dodo. For your application, pretty much any decent fluid will do the job. Recently, I will use any of the name brand synthetic stuff that is in stock. No, the 7-11 brand is not a name brand.

You will be surprised how well the brake system lasts. However, if you still want more braking, stick with oem style rotors and go with better pads. Your current rotors can probably just be turned and be good for another 100k.

Whatever new brake setup you put on, wont be 100% until you've put some miles on it and they have had a chance to fully seat/bed. Some setups, may actually feel worse initially.

 

[sumo]

You can change out the stock brake line to stainless steel. The rubber hose section between the calipers and brake line. Makes a big difference

 

[Tiki]

Went Raybestos which are the Manufacturer for AC Delco/GMs 'performance breaks' (check rock auto). Little spendy but after several thousand miles I'm very happy.

 

[Brian Wilson]

Not trying to start a fight.....

But every car I get I flush all fluids and replace with good synthetic. Brakes probably show the biggest improvement from this. Bleed them and add full synthetic dot4. They will be much better, if that isn't enough, replace the rube lines with good quality stainless braided hoses. Next step is great pads like the hawk pads mentioned or green stuff. Between these 3 things, it will be much better than it ever was.

And the fight starter, I have had amazing experiance with cheap slotted rotors as long as you follow a harsh break in 100%.don't park your car with hot rotors. I wouldn't use drilled rotors on a truck you tow with but slotted is fine. And don't buy the cheap ebay kits that have the awful pads. If you do, use the rotors and toss the pads in the trash. Not trying to start a fight but, I'm positive the reason slotted rotors get a bad reputation is always a poorly executed break in procedure.