Looking to get into my first SUV

[Ramsay]

What's up everyone. Been a lurker on this site for a little over a year now just reading posts getting more knowledgable on the NBS and NNBS trucks. My car got totalled earlier this month and I've been on the lookout to replacement.

I don't really want to spend over $15K so I started looking at some NNBS Chevy Tahoe. I found a few candidates.

2009 Black Chevy Tahoe LTZ
128K miles One owner asking $14,995

2008 Black Chevy Tahoe LTZ
118K miles 2 owners asking $14,995

I also found a couple more but the mileage is around 150K.

I've always loved the body style of the NBS Yukon Denali. There's just something about them when they are done up right. Interior looks and feels more comfortable and to my eyes it just seems like the NBS are just a better built truck. I started my search and found a couple 2004s with about 134K on the clock for around $6K. From my readings on this site it looks like the 2006's would be best year to buy for a NBS.

Just my luck a white 2006 pops up for sale with 100K miles for $8K. I inquire about the vehicle and I found out it had 4 prior owners. With mileage this scared me a bit like I may have a problem on my hands. Curiosity bites and I look at the CarFax.

1st owner had it for 2 yrs 2 months and drove it for 22k miles.

2nd owner had it for 3.5 years with 3 of them being in Florida up until 50k miles.

3rd owner had it for 1yr 9 months up until
63.5K miles in Needham, Ma.

The 4th owner had it 4 yrs 5 months up until 100k miles in Stoneham, MA which it is at now.

My thoughts are this may have been the 2 car or a car to get the kids around in.

So I take my buddy and I went to go look at it.

Some Pros:
Clean Body
No rust on the exterior
Interior in like mint condition
No CELs
Added screens in the headrests
Engine sounded good

Cons:

- A little surface rust in the driver's side wheel well.
- It sounded as if the Autoride was buzzing from the back of the truck. Could be wrong if it's the autoride or not.
- Frame didn't look bad. However I did find a rusted/broken line on the driver's side underneath the body. Not sure what it is though.
- Oil pressure gauge was at 80
- Driver's seat back adjust broken but functional
- Headlights wouldn't turn on. High beams and fog lights work though
- a few oil spots on the engine

Not sure how these 4 speeds drive but it feels like it stays in the gears longer. I'm used to 5 spd auto sedans

My question to you all. With some negotiating with the seller do you think this is a vehicle that would be worth it with a little work or should I just go to the newer body style?

 

[Jeff Groves]

I'd see if I could get a lower price. If they want 8 offer 6 and work from there. Just be tactful and polite when bartering. 8 is their hopeful price most likely. They may be happy as hell to get 7

 

[iamdub]

IMO, NNBS and NBS are really close but the NBS is overall a more reliable vehicle. If you like the styling more, then save your cash and get the older and cheaper one. This will leave plenty of funds to fix the small things. I figured you were up north by the prices you listed. Those same examples in my area would be $1,000-$2,000 less. Even still, I think $8,000 is a bit on the high end, all things considered. I agree with Jeff- offer a thrifty but fair minimum and have them talk you up rather than you talk them down. They may not even be the haggling type and may accept or counter relatively little from your offer. The key is knowing what you're looking at so your offer is fair and valid. As for the issues, they're all easy fixes. The pegged oil pressure could be a faulty stepper motor in the cluster or a failed sensor- both common and easy fixes. Headlights could be a relay, fuse(s), loose ground or (hopefully not) an issue with the BCM or multifunction switch. Having only 4 speeds, each gear typically has to be held longer. Your description of the shifting neither confirms or denies a fault. What's more important is HOW it's shifting when it does shift.

 

[adriver]

If your budget is cash, then one thing I always like to point is: you can get a vehicle shipped across the country for about $750-$1000. I see low 100K govt NNBS tahoes go through auction for $5-$7K regularly in AZ. That certainly leaves room for contingencies.

What are you going to use it for, or what did you want your driveline. The Denali is AWD. You have a healthy budget, and if you were going to buy a NBS, you could buy a good body and interior, and drop in a brand new: engine, transmission, suspension, brakes, stereo for $15K, and have yourself a "new" vehicle for about $15K and that's if you don't do any of the work.

If I had $15K to drop on either model Tahoe, there's no way I would settle on one with rust. Unless you are in a rust belt, and absolutely don't care. Even if that were true, I wouldn't spend half of that on a finished build.

As for the mileage, when I see Florida, and then MA, my guess is not a family vehicle, my guess is a retiree (which is closer to 6k-9k as opposed to 12K-15K). Do you recall if the back seat looked unused?

 

[mikeyss]

I have a 05 and an 09. In my opinion, get an 09 or up, here are some reasons why, in my opinion.

05 has torsion bars which suck in comparison to the front strut setup of the 09

I know some people swear by the 4L60/65, but the gear ratios suck for such a large SUV, the 09 and up have the 6L80 and it's noticably better.

05 has the old clunky steering system, the 07 and up have rack and pinion

07 and up have larger front brakes, and bigger sway bars.

HOWEVER.....

The 05 has MUCH better seats that are WAY comfier and more supportive. I love the A/C seats in my 09, but those don't hold you in place like the 05 does.

The 05 doesn't have AFM which is a good thing. Of course, you can find a rare 09 Tahoe with a 6.2 non AFM.

If you get a GMT-800, get an 06. It was the best year of them, mainly because they changed the cluster to the printed PRNDL instead of the digital one that always burnt out, or had stepper motor issues.