you honestly need a good scanner they can read all the non standard codes so you can fix all chassis issues. when you lowed the back, did you do shocks? there's a plug on top of the passenger side frame rail everyone knocks off when they change shocks. I did it myself. threw stability lights.
have you rebuild or done any work to the tranny? I'm going to throw it out as a guess but if you haven't, low idle but not running badly, rear after the cat o2 isn't really a big deal. slipping or atleast a torque converter that isn't locking up like it used to on the interstate, feeling sluggish. sounds like converter that isn't locking up like you're use to
I've be checking for burnt tranny fluid, could send off a sample for test and check the magnet in the pan for shiny stuff.
This. Could be a trans related issue as well. Honestly could be two separate issues that are unrelated. IMO here's where to start for the low idle.
Firstly identify if only your idle is low. How does the vehicle accelerate? Under 25% throttle? Under 50% throttle? To redline? How does it drive with load? I.E. Up a hill in overdrive? In tow mode? Hot vs cold? This is the best way to try and pinpoint exactly what is going on. Try to isolate the problem.
So many things can affect the idle of the vehicle because it requires spark, air and fuel.
Here's a few general steps you can do to check that most things are working correctly.
With the key on and the live data engaged, confirm the throttle position is being read and without any gaps or skips. You can do this by depressing the pedal slowly while watching the value go up. Make sure there's no skips, and if you can, have someone actually watch the throttle to verify it is doing what the pedal is reading. I believe at idle my throttle position percentage is about 18%, sometimes it'll dip down to 17% and my idle is about 450RPM ~ 600RPM depending on the situation, but averages out about 500/550RPM.
Verify fuel pressure at key on and while running. Should be in and around 50PSI, this will rule out any fuel pump/clogs in the line issues. Then once running confirm fuel trims. Should be ~ 6% for both short and long term fuel trims closer to zero but can go up to 10%. My truck never went negative, but apparently they can and still be within spec. If you have a mechanics stethoscope touch the injectors and listen for them firing, they make a loud clacking noise. MAF's should read about the L of the engine. If you have the 5.3L the GM/S should be in and around ~ 6 GM/S.
Beyond that do a visual inspection for leaks both in fuel and air,. Smell for any leaking gasoline, listen for any whistles for potential vacuum leaks as well. Report back what you find and hopefully we can help narrow down the cause.