Low speed squealing

[mattvand]

'03 Z Hoe.
Have a minor squeal coming from engine compartment or front left assembly while making a left turn at low speed (<10mph). Wheel doesn't have to be at full lock for the noise to start, but does need to be a sharper turn i.e. parking garage, driveway etc. Goes away immediately when I back off of the turn a few degrees.
Ideas?
Thanks in advance.

 

[mattvand]

Put into and out of 4wd and no change.

Wear indicator rubbing?
Bearing?
Belt?

Any thoughts?

 

[Mr.Jack]

Not just the tire hitting the inner wheel fender? Happened to me when I bought bigger tires. Made me have to cut some of the plastic fender.

 

[Chads93GT]

Squealing during a sharp turn = tire losing traction and squealing. My tahoes do it every time I am in a parking lot and turning the wheel at full lock. Hell it will do it not even at full lock.

 

[mattvand]

Ok, changed serp belt and tensioner assembly and a/c belt. Idler pulley has no wobble and spins well, so I didn't replace that. Topped off p/s fluid w/LucasOil p/s conditioner.

Result = no change, still squealing.


I have noticed that the vehicle doesn't seem to want to go anywhere until I give it gas (easy, I'm not an idiot, I'm getting to my point). When I let off of the brakes on level pavement it only creeps at less than 1mph until I hit the accelerator. Additionally, I'm only getting about 11.3 mpg w/e85 on 75% highway travel.

Is it possible that there may be some caliper sticking that is restricting wheel turn and could that also cause squealing? How would I verify caliper sticking?

Thanks in advance!

 

[afpj]

Squealing when turning suspect wheel bearing. Although when turning left, usually would expect the RIGHT bearing under load to make noise. Your low mileage and general resistance to rolling also suspicious. Otherwise calipers etc may be possible too. To verify caliper, you got to look at pads for uneven wear etc. Hope that helps some

 

[mattvand]

Had afternoon off of work so I jacked it up and pulled the wheels. Bearings and front end components appeared to be in decent shape (except for upper control arm bushings, but those will have to wait until I can upgrade the front end sometime early next year).

Looks like the calipers aren't letting go as much as they should. The outer pads are making contact with the rotor at all times and the extra friction makes turning the wheels/hubs difficult by hand. Driver's side is definitely worse than passenger side.

So, looks like I'll have to scrape up some cash and replace the rotors and calipers. Thinking of going with NNBS fronts.

Thoughts?

 

[afpj]

It's very difficult to judge pad contact based on just looking. Curious if you actually took off the pads and/or rotors and just turned the hub by hand to check?

 

[mattvand]

Didn't take the pads and rotors off, I did try to slide a piece of paper between the pad and rotor = no go. Had a buddy apply brakes and let off while I watched and the outside pad hardly moved.

Besides, the rotor vanes and outer lip and the calipers are very corroded and slide pin boots are pretty dry looking, so I figure an upgrade can't hurt (except the wallet).

 

[CTown LTZ]

Our 05" was doing this also. Do you notice excessive heat from that tire, especially after highway driving with little use of the brakes. I did have a bad wheel bearing, while removing the brakes the outboard pad was seized by a bent mounting bracket. After replacing that along with rotors, pads and caliber, the truck rolled so much better.

The bearing was replaced due to a faulty speed sensor, which wreaked havoc with the traction system.