Yeah true, “smooth ride” is pretty damn subjective lol.
It rides good now so I’d like to keep it as close to how it is, maybe a tad softer. I feel a few extra bumps I could do without but no biggie.
The way it sits now, the rear is probably stock non PPV height. The police dept. used it for towing various trailers so it has heavy duty shocks on the rear to support the tow package. I believe the coils are the stock PPV ones but the shocks gotta go, just due to the fact that I’d like it lowered, at least to that of a PPV rear height but eventually lowered all around.
Ok the mix and match kinda makes sense to me thenbut you say for 3”+ in the rear? So if I were to purchase a complete kit, say 2” front and 3”-4” rear (belltech 739sp) I would still need other parts?? Why is that? My bad if I’m missing something you’ve explained already.
I suppose my main objective right now is to get the rear down to the PPV height, which I would just need the PPV shocks (Monroe 911545 I hope!! I get so damn confused when nothing is labeled PPV lol). Assuming that my coils are the PPV ones.
oh yeah and thanks for the response!
The best thing to do is to measure all four corners how it sits now, determine how many inches you want to lower it front and rear and order the appropriate parts. You just have to keep in mind that a 3" drop coil for a civi rig won't drop yours 3" since you're already dropped some with the PPV coils. So, for example, if you want a 3" drop from where it is now, you'll need a 4.5" drop coil, assuming you're starting 1.5" lower from a civi Tahoe.
Most quality lowering coils for these rigs are a little softer, so the ride will improve. Quality shocks tend to generally ride softer, as well. Shocks DO NOT DROP a vehicle. The "drop shocks" are just shorter and are intended for a lowered vehicle. If you lower it, the shocks will be compressed the amount that you lower it. Normal length shocks being compressed three or four inches puts them at or nearly all the way compressed, also known as "bottomed out". At that point, you have no suspension travel and it will ride like a Radio Flyer wagon.
For anything over a 3" drop in the rear (I'd do it at a 3" drop), you need to remove the bump stop and cut the bracket off the frame. Look up the "Free Travel Mod". Also, for a 3" drop or more, you need the lower control arm relocators. You can get by without them if you always drive easily and don't tow with hard throttle. At 3" or more, you need shorter sway bar end links but also to shift the sway bar to the right about an inch. This is where the DJM offset sway bar end links come into play.
For shock extenders: They add 2" of travel back to the shocks. So, if you lower 2", the shocks will be compressed 2" and, therefore, 2" closer to bottoming out. Simply bolting on a set of extenders returns that 2" of travel so the shock has its full range of travel even though the vehicle is lowered. Extenders are good for up to 3" of drop with stock-length shocks. They make up for 2" of drop, so, with a 3" drop, the shock is only compressed 1" and that's fine. Beyond a 3" drop, you need shorter shocks ("drop shocks").
That 739SP kit from Belltech will ride nicely but not be too soft. I don't get why their site says it's a 2" drop on a 2WD but 2-4" drop on a 4WD. The spindles are 2" and the struts allow for an additional 0"-2", maybe even 3" of drop for 4"-5" of drop in the front. They're known to have misinformation, though. Regardless, you'll have all the drop you'd want with the option for more and good ride quality with that kit. You'll just need to do the FTM and the lower control arm relocators and offset sway bar links are strongly recommended.
Again, those drop figures are based on a non-PPV. You'd be getting more comfy rear springs, but the front springs that you have now will still be used. If the PPV front springs are stiffer, the softer Belltech SP struts may help enough. If not, you'll need to swap in some non-PPV front springs.
Hopefully someone with a lowered PPV can give more input on the springs.
