Manifold Clamp - 07 Yukon 5.3 - HELP!

[93blkongreenpro]

I took it to the dealership a few weeks ago for a oil change and told them I heard a exhaust leak and I was hoping it was leaking from when they did the cats.

Well, on the driver side, the rear two studs have broken. They told me high $400's to drill the studs out and replace them, then a extra $75 to clamp if they can't replace the studs. I was on Redrockets thread where he clamped them on his 6.0. So, $23 later, I have my Dorman manifold clamps.

I watched a few YouTube vids and I go out to the truck. #1, I have a ground strap in the upper hole. No problem.

Here I need guidance. How in the hevenly world would you get the bolts started, then tightened, that go into the head?

Please enlighten me and give me some suggestions. I'm not seeing how to do this in real life.

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[Rocket Man]

I wasn't able to get that clamp in the driver rear side but the second bolt from the back was still OK so I just left the rear one out and it doesn't leak. You might be able to drill and easy-out that second from the rear and the rear if you pull the inner fender liner. Even if you fix the second from the back only and put in a new gasket it should seal. There's another way if you know someone who welds. Use a nut that's a little too big for the stud, rest it over the broken stud, then fill the interior in with weld then use a wrench on the nut to remove the stud. Either way you'll need to remove the manifold. Good luck.

 

[KATfishing]

Watch this video:

 

[KATfishing]

The rear two bolts always seem to be the first to break. About 2 years ago, I installed clamps on the rear, both sides. Permanent fix! As long as the leak hasn't been left for too long and the gasket is ok, you'll be all set. Unfortunately, the rear is the hardest to install just because of lack of space to start the bolt. Just be patient. Watch the video above for starts. Also, there are plenty of Amazon reviews for the Dorman clamps you bought and people offer tips in those reviews. Some will argue that the only right way is to drill out the studs. Welding a nut head on is a common method for those who are successful. However, when these clamps are installed, it's a nonissue because it becomes a permanent fix. I've had my clamps on the rear for almost 2 years and there is zero exhaust leak. I was also told by Kral, the originator of exhaust manifold clamps, that once the rear two bolts are clamped, it greatly lessens the chances of the other bolts breaking off. So far, so good, and if need be, they make clamps for the other positions as well, all of which are much easier to install than the rear.

For the archive, could you please follow up on how your install goes and tips for others? It seems that so many original posters abandon the thread once they find a solution and never report back... just leaves everyone hanging who visits it in the future.

 

[93blkongreenpro]

The rear two bolts always seem to be the first to break. About 2 years ago, I installed clamps on the rear, both sides. Permanent fix! As long as the leak hasn't been left for too long and the gasket is ok, you'll be all set. Unfortunately, the rear is the hardest to install just because of lack of space to start the bolt. Just be patient. Watch the video above for starts. Also, there are plenty of Amazon reviews for the Dorman clamps you bought and people offer tips in those reviews. Some will argue that the only right way is to drill out the studs. Welding a nut head on is a common method for those who are successful. However, when these clamps are installed, it's a nonissue because it becomes a permanent fix. I've had my clamps on the rear for almost 2 years and there is zero exhaust leak. I was also told by Kral, the originator of exhaust manifold clamps, that once the rear two bolts are clamped, it greatly lessens the chances of the other bolts breaking off. So far, so good, and if need be, they make clamps for the other positions as well, all of which are much easier to install than the rear.

For the archive, could you please follow up on how your install goes and tips for others? It seems that so many original posters abandon the thread once they find a solution and never report back... just leaves everyone hanging who visits it in the future.

I'll watch the video. The gasket im thinking is still okay, since after about 5 minutes, the leak stops.

I'll report back once I get it installed. Hopefully Saturday.

I may get another one and clamp the front of the passenger side later one as a precaution.

Also, so you have the part # for the passenger side rear clamp?

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[93blkongreenpro]

I did it.

A few requirements;

- If you are 4wd, you must unbolt the front draftshaft from the front diff to gain clearence.

- remove o2 sensor

-removing the heat shield is not required, nor is it possible without removing the y pipe.

- for the most clearence, remove the y pipe, front driveshaft, heatshield and o2 sensor and rhat should make easy work.

- have long arms and small hands.

- have amazing core strenght

- and a pillow

I got the top bolt in, from the top of the engine. It's near impossible to get it in from the bottom with the y pipe still in place. It took me roughly a hr to get the top bolt started; If the bolt was tapered, I feel as if it would have started easier. At first, the truck was too high. I lowered it and it make the biggest difference.

The bottom bolt took about 30 minutes or so to figure out since you go in from the bottom blind with a ratchet wrench.

The pressure bolt took about 5 minutes. I would say pre-thread it, but it may only get in your way.

All in all, roughly 3 hrs, 45 mins of which was spent trying to figure it out. 4, 321 curse words and I think I made a few up. Next time, I know to pay someone to do this particular job.


I did spark plugs as well. Destroyed 2 of the mad plug, so Imma pick up some aC delco wires tomorrow.

The YouTube video does this installation no justice. I want to see the entire video and just just their 5 minutes snippet. 0

Either way it goes, I got it done!



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[Rocket Man]

Holy crap what an ordeal! Glad you got it done though, great work.

 

[93blkongreenpro]

Holy crap what an ordeal! Glad you got it done though, great work.

Me too! My hands all scratched and bruised up.

So the ground strap was attached to the head where the top bolt goes.

I bought a new battery ground strap and used the original bolt from the other strap. I don't like how it is ran, but it will do for now.

The truck acted all sorts of stupid when i tried to start it without that ground attached. Every ground is important. I may add a additional 0awg ground once I get some more 0awg lugs.

Also did plugs and wires while I was in there. #8 was a *****.


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[Rocket Man]

Know what's a real *****? I just found out first hand- pulling the trans. Man that sucked. So that fixed the exhaust leak without replacing the gasket?

 

[93blkongreenpro]

Know what's a real *****? I just found out first hand- pulling the trans. Man that sucked. So that fixed the exhaust leak without replacing the gasket?

Dam the trans! Lol. That would go to a shop depending how my funds look, lol.

And yes, no more exhaust tick. I am happy to not have spent almost 500 at the dealership. I may get the middle one for the passenger side as preventive measur to relieve the stress.

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