DallasTahoe
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2012
- Posts
- 711
- Reaction score
- 214
Every post or forum I’ve read through has not even mentioned this bleeding procedure, and since I’ve been having issues with an inconsistent brake pedal after putting pretty much an entirely new brake system in my rig, I wanted to start with the basics. So just to check it off my list of things to get a better pedal, I bought a new MC, it’s just a stock one, (I already have a new one in it) and I’m bench bleeding it now, but I found that because this is a step bore design the bleeding procedure is different (didn’t know there was such a thing) and plus I devised a way to do the whole bleeding procedure a lot better. Since I’m a woodworker my bench vice wouldn’t work to hold a master cylinder, (different kind than a standard bench vise) so I didn’t use a vise at all, I actually used a wood clamp to push the plunger in. Since it’s not stationary I’m able to move it however I want. I simply turn the crank until the plunger moves in about 3/4-1” and while it’s pushed in, I pick up the MC and move it around while tapping the body of it with a screwdriver and watch the air bubbles come out! It works extraordinarily well to get the air bubbles moving to where they need to go, which is out! That added with this new bleed procedure is far and away better than what I did a couple weeks ago when I put this other MC on. I didn’t use a syringe like they showed, I just did the plunger version they show towards the end of the video. I took my time while watching football and drinking beer So now after doing all that, I took her for a drive and now my pedal is high and tight! Just thought I would share! Someone will probably be a smartass and say I didn’t search good enough or whatever but I never saw it in the 3 days I’ve been researching.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk