Mechman Alt Install - Need Battery Terminal Suggestions

[fozzi58]

Looking for suggestions (pics preferably) on how anyone has run a multi-connection battery post on the K2XX platform. The ground area is super tight and I have 2 options to go with and none seem to be any good.

I did a Mechman 400 and I replaced the factory 4 gauge cable with 0/1 but its going back to where the original cable was - the distro block on top of the battery. I have read that it should be going right to the battery terminal and not sure how to do that considering the "arch" needed to clear the top of the battery because it still needs to connect to the distro block. With the upgrade of the power cable though, it seems senseless to go direct to the distribution block since there is that cheesy 4 gauge "arch" wire coming from the battery to the distro block from GM.

I also have 4 gauge and 0/1 gauge wire I intended to use for the ground cables to replace the factory wires to the block and firewall and also add the Mechman ground to body (where the secondary smaller factory wire goes as well or should that go to the block? (See picture in post #7 of this thread:TYF - Big 3 Upgrade ).

Some YouTube vids show the ground from the Mechman alternator going right to one of the bolts holding the alternator or some other bolt on the block with a pretty short run. Not sure which way is best.

Mechman's instructions show that I can leave the grounding ring disconnected since the alternator came with the p103 bypass. I have also seen diagrams showing an inline fuse between the Mechman alternator and the battery? I didnt think that was necessary but any additional protection that is needed I am willing to add.

The distro blocks I have for ground would barely fit and while I am considering going with the clamp style terminal with a ring (4th pic), getting and Allen key in there to tighten the clamp is damn near impossible when I went to test fit it.

And then there's still the cheesy GM positive bridge that goes from the post to the distro plate on top of the battery.

Any pics or suggestions on how you have overcome these issues would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[k_arnold72]

I'm still planning my amp and system setup, but I'm running into the same clearance issue.

For one thing, if it were my vehicle, I wouldn't "replace" any wires unless there's an problem. The more paths for current to travel, the better. I would add 0awg in parallel with the "big3/4/5/6" wires, but that's just me.

But this is what I plan to use for the battery terminal. I haven't pulled the trigger on it yet so I don't know if I'll run into any other issues, but on paper it looks like it checks all the boxes. There are other companies with similar designs as well.

Ultimate Positive Negative Battery Terminal Pair 0/4 /8 AWG with Top Post Port | eBay

Shinerun-840 is clearly marked (+) Positive or (-) Negative for easy polarity identification. Each Shinerun-840 accepts one each 1/0, 4 gauge and 8 gauge wire. These screws are accessible even after the insulated color coded cover is in place.

www.ebay.com

 

[fozzi58]

Not sure how those mounts are going to work unless you get a non-standard battery. A battery for the K2XX platform has a big square on top so the tray for the distro plate can mount properly. I had a Red Top in my Burb and it didn't make the clearances any better.

As for the gorund cable, my intent was to add additional but also replace the factory one - which are known to corrode from the inside out - with bigger gauge cables plus add additional grounds. However, without any room, theres no place to add ground to the battery cable.

Also one of MechMan's videos show the 400 alt installed on a 2014 Sierra and they only have a ground from the battery to the alternator. I put in a couple emails to MechMan and hope for clarification.

Mechman B14019370B install on 2014 to 18 Silverado Part 1 with RVC explanation.
Skip to 2:54 if you don't want to watch the whole vid