Mid travel or long travel Yukon Xl?

[Mondaytown]

Ok. This may have been covered already but it’s too important of it hasn’t.

The cst kit is a mall crawler type set up. Do not go that route if you plan on doing anything but a slow roll down a grated fire road.
It uses shock spacers and sub frame and control arm mount drops. So at the end of the day you end up with a lot of legos bolted on to each other that multiply the leverage. It is fine for trucks that stay on road, but not ok for the extra vibrations and… everything of going offroad.

The Izzy kit is actually meant for off-roading.

That being said, a proper shock that is tuned is better than extra inches of travel.

Now a proper shock that is tuned AND extra travel is the way to go!

If Izzy had released his stuff before I went my route I would have gone with his stuff but ordered my shocks from filthy Motorsport or accutune and had them tuned for my use.

I’m running ADS coilovers up front and piggyback reservoir shocks out back and border patrol springs. And the RC forged uca with high angle ball joint. It’s actually a really good arm for cheeeeaaaap. If I didn’t go with those I’d run the Camburg arm.

If you go the Izzy route, go with kings over icon. Icon is not horrible, but the kings use a better piston design, and rebuilds and repairs are a lot easier and readily available.

That’s the confirmation I was hoping for. Thank you. I’m pretty set on the Izzy kit now. And I am planning to build this into a full-fledged Overlander vehicle so it’s definitely going to see a lot of dirt.

Does he do a pretty good job tuning those or do I need to have it tuned after installation?

 

[Fifty]

In my opinion shock tuning is an art. You don’t see many fabricators that can tune and rarely do they higher a tuner to spec out a shock.

They usually just call king fox icon etc and say “I have this vehicle and it’s this arm ratio” and the shock company will put a generic valve stack to handle that ratio.
So it works but it’s not great anywhere.

See if Izzy will give you the shock spec (in case it’s a custom body shock, or if the bypass tubes need a specific lay out) and then call filthy if you go with kings or accutune if you go with fox.

If you go with filthy and kings, tell them fifty sent you.

 

[2001 TX Tahoe]

What tent is that? Also, what hitch rack are you using? I like that setup!

Moving the front wheel forward will make a big difference in clearance. Does the kit leave the front differential in the same spot? Any negative effects of moving the hub and not the diff?

Rear of the fender is the main contact point with bigger tires. Also run a wheel with enough positive offset / backspacing. This really helps. Once you push the wheel out the rubbing gets much worse.

My stock steering rack and pinion actually recently bit the dust. Got it replaced under (extended) warranty but good to know about this option.

I need to look but I think my highway cruising RPM’s are around 2,000.

I have two tents… the softshell is a 23Zero Walkabout 72. Awesome tent, lots of bells and whistles, California King size mattress. The hard shell is a James Baroud Evasion XXL. I really like it due to the set-up and break down time. Under 5 minutes compared to probably 20-30 with the 23Zero. Good if you’re moving camp often or if you want to get out during the day and then come back to your campsite. The rear tire swing is a Rigd Ultraswing Mega-Fit. I like it.

 

[Doubeleive]

Izzy Fab has a kit that comes with boxed uppers and lower control arms with a uniball and it moves the front hub forward about an inch so you can clear bigger tires. Keeps the stock track width. They also offer a full billet steering kit with billet tie rods and rack and pinion.

Man I just put them on about a week ago. But I can sell them I'm sure.
My main issue is cruising at 75 with bigger tires, I'm currently at 1650-1700 rpms. Any bigger and I'd be even lower. On the dyno we didn't really build boost until 1900 rpms. We hit 400ft lbs of torque right at 2000 rpm which would be sufficient for maintaining the gear with most loads.

But currently it feels gutless and likes to downshift to 5th gear all the time. I'm hoping to get my cruising rpms to 2000 or at least 1900

I assume you have the 3.08 axle ratio? that would be why.... I have this issue with the Silverado it likes to shift down 5th often to maintain speed depending how I am driving, switching it over to 3.73 is going to run me around $3k or closer to 4, unless I find a 3.73 front diff, then that can be swapped out and just change the rear pinion in which case I would probably throw a ARB air locker in it at the same time. The truck has the beefier 9.5" rear end and the g80 is fine and all but only locks at speed which can rub your tires off and wheels if you are against a rock

 

[Mondaytown]

In my opinion shock tuning is an art. You don’t see many fabricators that can tune and rarely do they higher a tuner to spec out a shock.

They usually just call king fox icon etc and say “I have this vehicle and it’s this arm ratio” and the shock company will put a generic valve stack to handle that ratio.
So it works but it’s not great anywhere.

See if Izzy will give you the shock spec (in case it’s a custom body shock, or if the bypass tubes need a specific lay out) and then call filthy if you go with kings or accutune if you go with fox.

If you go with filthy and kings, tell them fifty sent you.

Perfect, I am going to go with the king shocks so I will reach out to filthy.

 

[Oh Kee Pah]

@Mondaytown - applause to your commitment. Sounds like you're going to have a great build for your overlanding purposes.
I've been hung up but wanting to reply to this thread. LOTS of good stuff going on here.
I'm with others in the opinion that spending a little extra $ now will benefit you down the road.

I think you'll be just fine with the 18s. By far my favorite combo so far has been my OE 18 wheels with Nitto Ridge Grappler 295/75 18s. Under the weight of vehicle and around 38psi, measured right around 33" diameter, ground up.

Increasing the tire size WAS noticeable to my power, and my LTZ has the 3.42 gearing...Installing a simple tune has helped me gain the power I need (completely understand what you're saying about lower RPMs at higher speeds). My budget does not allow for a re-gear to 3.73, but I think THAT would be ideal.

The Izzy Fab products look great! Really wish this was something out there several years back.

1) Looks like they provide extended axle shaft in the package, assuming that takes care of any geometry changes with the front hubs moving forward. I really like that the new tie rods come "HD"; I mean that they are 1.5" hex vs. or OE tie rod (0.5" round). Looks like Izzy Fab also has them in OE stock length, fine print on their website product offering.

I am yet to make a post about them, but I've been running front tie rod sleeves for about 5k miles now. WOW! Big difference. I could immediately feel more control and power when demanding more from the suspension in at low speeds. Felt like I was really back to stock, or maybe even better, with this simple addition. I am recommending that ANYONE with larger than spec tires seriously think about installing a pair. Example are Kryptonite tie rod sleeves here : https://kryptoniteproducts.com/products/kryptonite-zinc-plated-tie-rod-sleeves
My sleeve install brought tie rod up to 1" thick. You've got 1.5" with the Izzy kit, bonus!

2) Website says the Izzy kit increases track width by 3.5" per side up front. My BDS kit increased track width by 1.5" up front. Running OE wheels, the outer edge of my tires is out past my fender. I have the OE trim fender flares installed (not too much out in the marketplace to choose from unfortunately) which spec at 0.75" additional tire coverage. Recently, I failed my state inspection because my flares do not cover ALL of my wheel extending out past fender. D'oh!
Are you looking at fabricated/fabricating the front fender? I know you have the new front bumper coming; I have only started to research fabricating quarter panels. I'm not entirely sure if a Silverado 1500 fab'd front quarter will fit on our vehicles. I think it might, but not sure. I've also been looking into fabricating my own fender flares, utilizing my current ones as a mold of some sort. BUT, not really sure about that plan either. I've wanted to see if a 2014 Tahoe fender flare could fit or be modified to fit. Bushwacker offers a 2.5" wheel coverage in their pocker flare for 2014 Tahoe. But at $500+, I'm not really willing to "experiment" right now with those.
Currently, I'm leaning towards RexGen's Mesh Offset mudflaps, at least for the rear wheels. I just feel like I toss stuff all over people behind me. One thing in the summer, but once the weather starts here in ME, would be nice not to blast people.

Will you run wheel spacers in the rear to match the change to front track width? If so, again, tire coverage? I can tell you from experience that all kinds of stuff gets thrown up the side of the Tahoe and up under the rear. All around the spare. Several electrical components in that zone, so you maybe consider some sort of under armor or perhaps softer mudflaps...
Just get frustrated sometimes cause I work hard to clean it up and completely dirty after a 20 min ride...but, I do live in rural Maine.

3) Rear coil plan - Dobinsons. I had looked into rear coils the past couple years. So much so as that I spoke with a few coil fabricators. Dobinson is also one that caught my eye, but I was not thrilled with the powder coating color option. Didn't call the company to pursue further. From another TYForum members recommendation, I installed the SkyJacker C25R rear coil spring, same time as the HD tie rod sleeve. What can I say, GAMECHANGER! I removed my 3" rear coil spacer from BDS and installed this bad boy with a 0.75" rear coil spacer. Got me right to +3" rear height just like with my original lift. However, the ride difference! Squat was gone when I was loaded for camping, etc...Rides great, better than stock. And that's not even with great rear shocks! Best rear ride the last 5k miles in the 125k I've put on the Tahoe
https://skyjacker.com/shop/coil-springs/c25r-softride-coil-spring/

4) Lighting? Are you doing some off-road lighting upgrades? Thinking you'll change up the fogs and maybe a light bar up on the roof rack?

5) Check the TYForum threads for Dual Battery setup. Might be something you want to look into, especially since you have the winch going in. Could possibly also be used if you are airing up/down out on the trails...


6) MID-TRAVEL vs LONG TRAVEL? At the end of the day, I'm not surprised that you are coming up bare on internet searches for this kind of build. From what I've seen, it's pretty much not out there. Very few have ventured down this "road." The lack of aftermarket products available for the 2015-20 years is a MAJOR problem that we face. Secondly, the pre-runner build is difficult primarily due to front end changes. What laws do you need to follow to keep this thing running on the road? Also, how much money do you want to spend? At some point, going out and buying a Raptor, or ZR2 Silverado even, would give you a better off road ride and suspension, perhaps even CPO...
If you're not rock crawling, I don't think a long travel suspension is necessary. In fact, as amazing as they are, the mid-travel kit is probably not even needed.
I think you could certainly take the CST 4" lift (previously mentioned) and beef it up to be really solid for what you're talking about. I've learned that you cannot be afraid to mix and match in this game. Many components will fit with others. There's a reason we can purchase items built for a Silverado and slap them on our SUVs.


Options for Overland Build, but NOT necessarily a pre-runner build:

CST 4" Stage 1 lift OR ReadyLift SST 4" Kit (https://www.readylift.com/4-sst-lif...w-cast-al-or-stamped-steel-uca-2015-2020.html)
3-5" adj. coilovers (remote reservoir + DSC + adjustable = ultimate ride quality) Tuned specific to your vehicle, even better...
HD tie rod sleeve
extended front sway bar links (BDS, Cognito, other adjustable brands out there...)
Rear 2.5" lift coil
Rear shocks (for increased ride height; remote reservoir = bonus) Looks like you might be leaning towards a rear air shock though.
Necessary rear components for rear lift (ie: track bar relocated, extended sway links, etc)

OR

BDS Suspension 4" front kit, Cognito Suspension 4" front kit, either with adjustable front coilovers and other front-end upgrades listed above; then build-your-own rear lift...


Safe Travels!
Keep us posted. I would like to see a build thread personally Or maybe you jumping this thing up off a sand dune!

 

[Mondaytown]

@Mondaytown - applause to your commitment. Sounds like you're going to have a great build for your overlanding purposes.
I've been hung up but wanting to reply to this thread. LOTS of good stuff going on here.
I'm with others in the opinion that spending a little extra $ now will benefit you down the road.

I think you'll be just fine with the 18s. By far my favorite combo so far has been my OE 18 wheels with Nitto Ridge Grappler 295/75 18s. Under the weight of vehicle and around 38psi, measured right around 33" diameter, ground up.

Increasing the tire size WAS noticeable to my power, and my LTZ has the 3.42 gearing...Installing a simple tune has helped me gain the power I need (completely understand what you're saying about lower RPMs at higher speeds). My budget does not allow for a re-gear to 3.73, but I think THAT would be ideal.

The Izzy Fab products look great! Really wish this was something out there several years back.

1) Looks like they provide extended axle shaft in the package, assuming that takes care of any geometry changes with the front hubs moving forward. I really like that the new tie rods come "HD"; I mean that they are 1.5" hex vs. or OE tie rod (0.5" round). Looks like Izzy Fab also has them in OE stock length, fine print on their website product offering.

I am yet to make a post about them, but I've been running front tie rod sleeves for about 5k miles now. WOW! Big difference. I could immediately feel more control and power when demanding more from the suspension in at low speeds. Felt like I was really back to stock, or maybe even better, with this simple addition. I am recommending that ANYONE with larger than spec tires seriously think about installing a pair. Example are Kryptonite tie rod sleeves here : https://kryptoniteproducts.com/products/kryptonite-zinc-plated-tie-rod-sleeves
My sleeve install brought tie rod up to 1" thick. You've got 1.5" with the Izzy kit, bonus!

2) Website says the Izzy kit increases track width by 3.5" per side up front. My BDS kit increased track width by 1.5" up front. Running OE wheels, the outer edge of my tires is out past my fender. I have the OE trim fender flares installed (not too much out in the marketplace to choose from unfortunately) which spec at 0.75" additional tire coverage. Recently, I failed my state inspection because my flares do not cover ALL of my wheel extending out past fender. D'oh!
Are you looking at fabricated/fabricating the front fender? I know you have the new front bumper coming; I have only started to research fabricating quarter panels. I'm not entirely sure if a Silverado 1500 fab'd front quarter will fit on our vehicles. I think it might, but not sure. I've also been looking into fabricating my own fender flares, utilizing my current ones as a mold of some sort. BUT, not really sure about that plan either. I've wanted to see if a 2014 Tahoe fender flare could fit or be modified to fit. Bushwacker offers a 2.5" wheel coverage in their pocker flare for 2014 Tahoe. But at $500+, I'm not really willing to "experiment" right now with those.
Currently, I'm leaning towards RexGen's Mesh Offset mudflaps, at least for the rear wheels. I just feel like I toss stuff all over people behind me. One thing in the summer, but once the weather starts here in ME, would be nice not to blast people.

Will you run wheel spacers in the rear to match the change to front track width? If so, again, tire coverage? I can tell you from experience that all kinds of stuff gets thrown up the side of the Tahoe and up under the rear. All around the spare. Several electrical components in that zone, so you maybe consider some sort of under armor or perhaps softer mudflaps...
Just get frustrated sometimes cause I work hard to clean it up and completely dirty after a 20 min ride...but, I do live in rural Maine.

3) Rear coil plan - Dobinsons. I had looked into rear coils the past couple years. So much so as that I spoke with a few coil fabricators. Dobinson is also one that caught my eye, but I was not thrilled with the powder coating color option. Didn't call the company to pursue further. From another TYForum members recommendation, I installed the SkyJacker C25R rear coil spring, same time as the HD tie rod sleeve. What can I say, GAMECHANGER! I removed my 3" rear coil spacer from BDS and installed this bad boy with a 0.75" rear coil spacer. Got me right to +3" rear height just like with my original lift. However, the ride difference! Squat was gone when I was loaded for camping, etc...Rides great, better than stock. And that's not even with great rear shocks! Best rear ride the last 5k miles in the 125k I've put on the Tahoe
https://skyjacker.com/shop/coil-springs/c25r-softride-coil-spring/

4) Lighting? Are you doing some off-road lighting upgrades? Thinking you'll change up the fogs and maybe a light bar up on the roof rack?

5) Check the TYForum threads for Dual Battery setup. Might be something you want to look into, especially since you have the winch going in. Could possibly also be used if you are airing up/down out on the trails...


6) MID-TRAVEL vs LONG TRAVEL? At the end of the day, I'm not surprised that you are coming up bare on internet searches for this kind of build. From what I've seen, it's pretty much not out there. Very few have ventured down this "road." The lack of aftermarket products available for the 2015-20 years is a MAJOR problem that we face. Secondly, the pre-runner build is difficult primarily due to front end changes. What laws do you need to follow to keep this thing running on the road? Also, how much money do you want to spend? At some point, going out and buying a Raptor, or ZR2 Silverado even, would give you a better off road ride and suspension, perhaps even CPO...
If you're not rock crawling, I don't think a long travel suspension is necessary. In fact, as amazing as they are, the mid-travel kit is probably not even needed.
I think you could certainly take the CST 4" lift (previously mentioned) and beef it up to be really solid for what you're talking about. I've learned that you cannot be afraid to mix and match in this game. Many components will fit with others. There's a reason we can purchase items built for a Silverado and slap them on our SUVs.


Options for Overland Build, but NOT necessarily a pre-runner build:

CST 4" Stage 1 lift OR ReadyLift SST 4" Kit (https://www.readylift.com/4-sst-lif...w-cast-al-or-stamped-steel-uca-2015-2020.html)
3-5" adj. coilovers (remote reservoir + DSC + adjustable = ultimate ride quality) Tuned specific to your vehicle, even better...
HD tie rod sleeve
extended front sway bar links (BDS, Cognito, other adjustable brands out there...)
Rear 2.5" lift coil
Rear shocks (for increased ride height; remote reservoir = bonus) Looks like you might be leaning towards a rear air shock though.
Necessary rear components for rear lift (ie: track bar relocated, extended sway links, etc)

OR

BDS Suspension 4" front kit, Cognito Suspension 4" front kit, either with adjustable front coilovers and other front-end upgrades listed above; then build-your-own rear lift...


Safe Travels!
Keep us posted. I would like to see a build thread personally Or maybe you jumping this thing up off a sand dune!

Thanks for taking all the time to respond with such detail!

I figured right off the bat I would clarify which suspension kit I’m doing from Izzy fab. I decided to do their mid travel kit. it does not extend width at all. But it does move the front wheels forward 1 inch. It comes with upper and lower arms and I selected the king shock option. After talking with another member I plan to take This to Colorado to have the shocks tuned to by filthy.

Izzy Fab is claiming a full 10 inches of suspension travel which is 4.5 inches more than Stock.

I feel that that is probably the perfect solution for what I’m looking for. Definitely not looking to jump lol

I’m curious about those tie rod sleeves. I ordered the billet tie rods from Izzy fab. Would you still recommend the sleeves over those?


As far as lights go I have not ordered those yet. That was next on my list.

My plan is to replace my headlights with the Morimoto headlights.
And then I ordered the front and rear bumper from baseline overland. Those come with cut outs on both sides as well as the middle for I believe eight or 10 pod lights.

I am also ordering his full length roof rack with a cut out for a light bar on top.

If you have recommendations on what brand of pod lights and light bar I would love to hear it.


I was worried about electrical power. I was planning to put a heavy duty alternator on it but wasn’t sure if that would be enough. I will definitely look into the dual battery set up. Thank you for the suggestion!


I am checking out those skyjacker springs right now. That might be something I switched to. I still plan to run the King shocks in the back and I’d like to put the air bladders in them just in case I pull something extra heavy.


I didn’t think about doing a build thread but I will start one!

 

[Mondaytown]

I assume you have the 3.08 axle ratio? that would be why.... I have this issue with the Silverado it likes to shift down 5th often to maintain speed depending how I am driving, switching it over to 3.73 is going to run me around $3k or closer to 4, unless I find a 3.73 front diff, then that can be swapped out and just change the rear pinion in which case I would probably throw a ARB air locker in it at the same time. The truck has the beefier 9.5" rear end and the g80 is fine and all but only locks at speed which can rub your tires off and wheels if you are against a rock

After double checking It looks like I have the 3.42. But I do want to do an air locker on mine. I'm trying to see if I can possibly have either a limited slip or locker put on the front. So far no luck but have been told a gear shop may be able to do a swap on the front to a different gear case with different Cv axles. Just exploring that right now.

 

[Mondaytown]

Moving the front wheel forward will make a big difference in clearance. Does the kit leave the front differential in the same spot? Any negative effects of moving the hub and not the diff?

Rear of the fender is the main contact point with bigger tires. Also run a wheel with enough positive offset / backspacing. This really helps. Once you push the wheel out the rubbing gets much worse.

My stock steering rack and pinion actually recently bit the dust. Got it replaced under (extended) warranty but good to know about this option.

I need to look but I think my highway cruising RPM’s are around 2,000.

I have two tents… the softshell is a 23Zero Walkabout 72. Awesome tent, lots of bells and whistles, California King size mattress. The hard shell is a James Baroud Evasion XXL. I really like it due to the set-up and break down time. Under 5 minutes compared to probably 20-30 with the 23Zero. Good if you’re moving camp often or if you want to get out during the day and then come back to your campsite. The rear tire swing is a Rigd Ultraswing Mega-Fit. I like it.

Yes they keep everything the same, even the CV axles are left stock. They claim you can run 37's with some fender trimming. I don't really have a desire to go bigger than 35's at most.

Thats good to know! I've been debating between a soft shell and hard shell. I think I'm leaning that way now. I like fast.

 

[Doubeleive]

After double checking It looks like I have the 3.42. But I do want to do an air locker on mine. I'm trying to see if I can possibly have either a limited slip or locker put on the front. So far no luck but have been told a gear shop may be able to do a swap on the front to a different gear case with different Cv axles. Just exploring that right now.

I thought I could throw a ARB on my silverado but after double checking I would likely have to change out the axle to a smaller one. all I see for the 3.42 is the eaton trutrac, depending on the differential/axle size