iamdub
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Works great for removing tarnish from silver, too. I get a foot or so of wire outta my welder and wrap it around a screwdriver to make it a coil to act as a cheap sacrificial anode.
Mild 6.0L Build Suggestions?
- Thread starter Matthew Jeschke
- Start date
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Works great for removing tarnish from silver, too. I get a foot or so of wire outta my welder and wrap it around a screwdriver to make it a coil to act as a cheap sacrificial anode.
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Matthew Jeschke
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super smart with weldong wire.
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Matthew Jeschke
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Okay latest blunder... The rings are gapped, pistons built and ready to go in motor. I had ordered the wrong piston rings and discovered that when I got ready to build the pistons.
The motor had been balanced with the wrong piston rings. Once the new rings came in, I discovered they were 4 grams lighter per piston.
I'm looking at how they calculated the bob weight and the weight would be off by 0.2% due to that. I'm not sure it's an issue? I know taking apart my 5.3L there was a 10 gram difference from lightest to heaviest piston. I know all my pistons will be within 1 gram of each other. But not sure exactly how or if the 4 grams lighter will effect things.
The motor had been balanced with the wrong piston rings. Once the new rings came in, I discovered they were 4 grams lighter per piston.
I'm looking at how they calculated the bob weight and the weight would be off by 0.2% due to that. I'm not sure it's an issue? I know taking apart my 5.3L there was a 10 gram difference from lightest to heaviest piston. I know all my pistons will be within 1 gram of each other. But not sure exactly how or if the 4 grams lighter will effect things.
iamdub
Full Access Member
I doubt it's anything to worry about. At least this time around, they're all "evenly out of balance", although very minimally. These engines run for 300K miles way more out of balance than where yours currently is with no problems. It wouldn't hurt to call the shop and ask. They're the pros for a reason.
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Matthew Jeschke
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Rear main seal is throwing me for a bit of a curve. My manual doesnt explain nuch...
I put the seal in the cover... then try to install cover and seal. Seal starts to come out when I start to thread the bolts.
Also there is a white plastic disc that came with the seal.. that fits perfectly on the end of the crank... is that some sort of an alignment tool?
How does this work [emoji2962]
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I put the seal in the cover... then try to install cover and seal. Seal starts to come out when I start to thread the bolts.
Also there is a white plastic disc that came with the seal.. that fits perfectly on the end of the crank... is that some sort of an alignment tool?
How does this work [emoji2962]
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iamdub
Full Access Member
First off- make sure you have the seal facing the correct way.
Glue the seal in place in the cover with RTV. I do this for front and rear seals.
The white disc needs to be in the seal. It centers the seal on the crank and, when you push the seal onto the crank, it keeps the lip of the seal facing the correct direction as it pops out. DO NOT lubricate the crank where the seal goes on. I "hang" the cover in place with one hand, just to hold the weight. With my other hand, I press the disc onto the crank so it's centered, then I position my fingers on the seal and press it onto the crank which simultaneously pushes the cover against the block. You push the seal to push the cover, not snug the cover to the block to pull it and the seal. I let the disc pop out and fall. Then I thread in the bolts, align the cover with the skirt of the block, measure the clearances, etc.
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Matthew Jeschke
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@iamdub dang thanks! I have been boycotting Youtube for several months. I finally broke down and watched how that white disk works. Pretty simple, got it installed... but too had wondered if a little RTV or glue would have been okay on the seal to keep it seated. The front seal went in and really stuck in place. the rear one was so so. I wonder, can a person remove the seal? or is it only good for one time install? I really don't like the metal barbell, oil galley plug, I bought. The design floating around isn't that good. I found a metal barbell with oring on both sides. Also I'd like to glue the seal in place now that you mention that.
New Question: I lost the oil pickup tube bolt. Anybody know what size bolt that is, wonder if I can just buy one from parts store. The new oil pump didn't come with one.
New Question: I lost the oil pickup tube bolt. Anybody know what size bolt that is, wonder if I can just buy one from parts store. The new oil pump didn't come with one.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Glad to help. While looking for other pics in my build thread, I found a pic of the RMS. I also have pics of the Sac City billet barbell I used. I like it.
All on page 56: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/page-56#post-1428047
I thoroughly clean the channel in the rear cover then smear a solid layer of RTV all around the seal where it contacts the channel. I let it cure for a couple of hours while I do other stuff. When installing the cover, I push on the seal with my fingers on the outer edge so it lets the disc pop out but no force is on the seal to push it out of the cover. I RTV the front seal, too. There's absolutely no harm in doing so, it can only help.
You can remove and replace the RMS without removing the cover. Just remove the transmission, CAREFULLY pry the old on out and press in the new one. Obviously, using RTV makes this much more difficult. But, the stock one, installed correctly, lasted 200K. I expect the on I put in to do the same. I'm extra particular when positioning the cover. I don't use alignment tools, I measure to the 1/4 of a millimeter.
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Matthew Jeschke
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Sweet post, I also put a camera doen my oil galley in the block. Not sure I checked alignment of front pump, didnt even think about that. super smart.. i was more interested in what it looked like.
Do you know where I can get the oil pump pickup tube bolt? I lost mine and new pu.p didnt come with one... I see they sell on ebay but is complete kit of bolts.
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iamdub
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Dealer or hardware store. M6x1.00x20mm
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