Motor Oil

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FINALTOUCHFRI

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Just had my motor swapped out last month. Motor has original 129K miles. When motor was put in of course motor was flushed and all new fluids. I put on maybe 200 mile if that on the motor so far. I want to change the oil and put the best oil I can in it to start fresh. Recommendations'????
 

B-train

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There are 100 or more "right" answers to this question as you will see. Go with what the OEM suggested. Most likely a dexos 5w-30. There are a lot of good marketing schemes and gimmicks to pull money out of your wallet for the feel good effect.

If your pockets are on fire from all the money burning to get out, then spend it on royal purple or amsoil. If you are more realistic and frugal, then a good name brand will do. If you are done paying for a label, then a good off brand will do. If it says dexos approved, then it meets GM criteria and your motor will be fine.

It's not so much the upfront, super awesome gotta-have it quality, that makes all the difference. Frequency of changing with a good filter will give you more bang for the buck in the long run.

There is tons of reading about oil on here, just search for it. Best-o-luck!
 

B-train

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I didn't realize you were a full access member until now, so you've been around the block a few times I presume.

If the motor you put in had 129k, how did it look inside? You might benefit from a couple quick succession oil changes with some ATF or other cleaner added to remove varnish and carbon buildup. Then chose an oil an keep a regular interval.
 

Doubeleive

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amsoil is great if you want to otherwise I have used nothing but mobile 1 myself.
 

swathdiver

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Red Line, Amsoil and Royal Purple are the top dogs last time I checked. I run ACDelco. You can run Walmart oil and FRAM filters and if you change it every 4-5K miles the motor will be fine.
 

Geotrash

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Walmart full synthetic DexOS 5w-30 is the best deal around and it's good oil.
 

Blackcar

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If motor was rebuilt treat it as new engine as per owner's manual as far as weight and type filter recommended.
 

Dustin Jackson

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To me it sounds like the motor has 129k on it with no rebuild, keep running factory spec regardless
 

iamdub

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As they said- No need to run anything expensive. I've heard that Walmart's SuperTech and Amazon's oils are great bangs-for-the-buck. Just run a quality full synthetic and change it when it gets dirty. Not pitch black and not just lightly tinted amber. Every engine is different. Use a quality filter no matter what. No flushes or additives are necessary. As the detergents in the oil work, they'll dissolve and remove what gunk may be present in the engine, which will be removed from the engine when the oil is changed. In time, you may find that your oil is staying lighter (cleaner) for longer. This is because the inside has been cleaned, which is the best thing you can do for the lifters and AFM components. I had my best results from Pennzoil Platinum. I think I ran 5W-30 or 10W-30 in those days. Since the AFM delete and performance upgrades, I run full synthetic diesel oil (Rotella T6) and K&N HP-2011 filter. It starts to turn darker around 4,000ish miles and I change it at 5,000 religiously. It's designed to be ran in a much dirtier environment and for way longer. Oil is still clean enough when I drain it that I give it to a buddy for his Tahoe.
 

pa31p

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The cheapest oil will probably be fine for short drain intervals,

you’ll see benefits in more expensive oils when you run it for 10000 miles

The psycological effect is worth something but that motor don’t care much since you’ll drop the oil again in 2500 miles.

Non turbocharged engines more forgiving that way.
 

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