MSD ignition componants part numbers.

[SunlitComet]

A complete msd setup will put out enough energy that it will just eat up the platinum plating. Copper cores hold better and allow the box to read the electrical feedback more effectively.

 

[99Yuk]

I posted in your other thread but forgot to mention that I have never seen or heard of msd recommending a specific gap it has always been .005 to .010 bigger then factory gap but never more then .060 for our given compression ratio. Stick with the msd cap/rotor. And use plain copper core plugs as the box has trouble reading electrical feedback with other types. Any good hellicaly wound wires are good but no solid core wires. The stock gm's can work if you don't msd wires but eventually the wire will break down electrically.

I have the MSD 8.5mm wires.
As for the gap, I just googled MSD 350 gap, and got my first hit from an MSD engineer HERE, and guy talk HERE. They pretty much say to gap at 0.40".
I think I'll take the MSD guys advice about gap and temp range. Anywho, it can't hurt none. And I kept my old plugs just in case these ones didn't work out for me.


As for the miss, the guys at our shop found it. It was the MSD cap and rotor. Bad from the factory. Didn't make it a full month before it burnt up bad. I took pics, but ran out of storage space to put them up. The guys put in new AC Delco and she runs like a top now.

I would like to think that the MSD stuff in general is ok and I just got a bad one, but IDK.

I'm just glad its all worked out! If anyone is on the fence about the MSD box, I say go for it!

 

[SunlitComet]

And both seem to refer to carbed or tbi 350's or more specifically not in reference to vortecs but hey, what floats your boat. Just pick up the msd phoe tell them what you have and what the factory plug specs are and let them speak for their product themselves. Still seem like a fallback in performance for the vortecs when you go from factory .060 to a .040 when more exposed spark contributes to a more complete burn. MSD stuff is always good but will take some tweaking and visual inspection of cap/ rotor and plugs to perfect it performance.

 

[99Yuk]

Meh, we'll see.

The plugs only cost $20. If they foul, then they foul. Can't hurt to try? Then I can post up here the results so others won't make the same mistakes that I do. IDK.

 

[99Yuk]

UPDATE: SunlitComet was right. These plugs are shit. I've been reading up on spark plugs HERE.
Short quote...

A rule of thumb is, one heat range colder per modification or one heat range colder for every 75–100hp you increase.

Well, these colder and smaller gapped plugs have fouled, and it idles rough. I'm not making an extra 75-100hp, so I've got an appointment next Tuesday to get some maintenance done on my truck and it's getting THESE again.

 

[ezdaar]

cheap ass NGK coppers gapped out until I got a misfire then back in .005 is what I ran in my toys for years.
ran same plugs till they got some wear on them then filled the ground strap square again, along with squaring up the electrode. and ran them till they corroded up.
then it was time for a change..

 

[SunlitComet]

99YUK since you have the complete msd setup use Autolite 605 copper cores. They wear faster but get the most out of the msd box. They are not colder or hotter. They are just a non-platinum stock plug for us.

 

[99Yuk]

Update: Well the new plugs are in and the truck idles smooth as glass now.

I'm all for science experiments, so I don't consider this one as a failure, as others may learn from it.

 

[SunlitComet]

Which plugs are those?

 

[99Yuk]

THESE...

I know you don't like em, but they are coppercore... And they are AC Delco... And that's what I used for the first 90k kms(56k miles) on the crate motor... And I'm stubborn...