My Drop Experience - 5 Months Later

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Boomer73

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I would highly recommend installing a larger set of sway bars (I prefer the eibach 35mm front and 32mm rear) as well as shorter end links for the rear sway bar.

I'm going to do the the sway bar. Not sure which brand yet. The DJM hardware kit has shorter end links. That helped some, but not enough obviously.

As far as the bumpsteer is concerned installing some heim'd tie rods and a steering stabilizer are the best methods for reducing the steering issue but remember, these trucks are quite nose-heavy and the torsion bar front suspension isn't designed for excellent handling characteristics.

Unlike a FWD car, I believe the source of the bump steer is the vehicle shifting momentarily as the drive/rear wheels encounters a bump and the shift is just transmitted forward. I'm skeptical that a steering damper will actually correct this. I agree that the forward weight bias makes this worse. It seems to me that if rear end problem can be solved, most of the bump steer would be eliminated.

I would also suggest installing some airlift helper bags as they will drastically increase the ride quality as well as towing capability. Z71 Tahoe front bumpstops (gm part # 15153959) are also an excellent addition to improve ride quality. These torsion bar ifs trucks have no natural rebound like a well-designed coil spring suspension or even leaves so an excellent dampener in conjunction with a stiffer jounce stop will make the suspension much more responsive (though you are limiting the amount of travel from the front suspension).

The bags I will definitely look in to. My bumpstop mounts are gone so how do you suggest mounting?

---------- Post added at 05:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:36 PM ----------

Im trying to figure out what kit you bought from me for $900 dollars forgot exactly what you got from me?

It was $765 for everything but the hardware kit. Hardware kit was the second purchase and was $135. I believe you price matched on that one.
 

NORCAL SS

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for the bumpstops you can use the energy suspension ones about 7/16 tall and either drill and tap onto the frame and or there is a hole on the axle you can bolt them thru up to you. they also have ones that you can cut down and make to the specific height you want like the ones I have. This is the one I use on gusy with 26s and dropped so I can get the most axle movement before it taps tire. So pretty much grind off the bumpstop brackets and put this on the frame and measure and cut

http://www.tbssowners.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=66
 
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PUNKYOU007

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I got a different kit than you, I got the DJM 3/5.5 kit and I am not very excited about mine either. I hit frame almost everyday in the rear. I have to creeep really slow to get over speed bumps without hitting. Even with the adjustable panhard I had to remove the plastic liners in the rear. When I have the wheel fully locked to the left I rub like crazy. I also cant take a corner any faster than I could before......Looks good though, lol.
 

NORCAL SS

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I got a different kit than you, I got the DJM 3/5.5 kit and I am not very excited about mine either. I hit frame almost everyday in the rear. I have to creeep really slow to get over speed bumps without hitting. Even with the adjustable panhard I had to remove the plastic liners in the rear. When I have the wheel fully locked to the left I rub like crazy. I also cant take a corner any faster than I could before......Looks good though, lol.

tire rub is due to wheel size/offset/tire size.

really quick in rear do you have helper bags inside or springs only?

Running short bumpstops on the frame?

Trying to figure this out because ive been using this kit for years and with short bumpstops on the frame and djm shocks its been ok. Much better than the djm 5 inch spring thats for sure.

More info the better we are all off.
 

Nickleahy23

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I got a different kit than you, I got the DJM 3/5.5 kit and I am not very excited about mine either. I hit frame almost everyday in the rear. I have to creeep really slow to get over speed bumps without hitting. Even with the adjustable panhard I had to remove the plastic liners in the rear. When I have the wheel fully locked to the left I rub like crazy. I also cant take a corner any faster than I could before......Looks good though, lol.

ditch the plastic fender liners in the rear...or cut the shit out of them..mine rubbed with less of a drop then i have now so i tried cutting them, ended up just ditching them and undercoating the wheel wells...trim your front plastic liners where you can see the rub...

and get some helper bags for the back..they are like 80 bucks and my ride improved 100x with them...the best part of my day is taking a 30 mph on ramp curve at 65 and having barely any body roll and driving like a dream..
 

NORCAL SS

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yes that part number is what I use for the djm tb drop spring
 

waxworkz

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i had those bags in for about a day and took them out. went full time air ride instead. i didnt like riding with just 5psi cause it raised my truck when unloaded. when i had some weight it was fine. now my ART kit rides nice at about 40psi, full loaded 17 ft horse trailer at 80psi rides like a dream
 

Trackrat

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Looks good and excellent write-up :cheers: Unfortunately these trucks will still behave in accordance to the laws of physics so comparing a highly modified truck to a sports coupe weighing 3000lbs less will leave anyone with a sour taste in their mouth. I would highly recommend installing a larger set of sway bars (I prefer the eibach 35mm front and 32mm rear) as well as shorter end links for the rear sway bar.

As far as the bumpsteer is concerned installing some heim'd tie rods and a steering stabilizer are the best methods for reducing the steering issue but remember, these trucks are quite nose-heavy and the torsion bar front suspension isn't designed for excellent handling characteristics.

I would also suggest installing some airlift helper bags as they will drastically increase the ride quality as well as towing capability. Z71 Tahoe front bumpstops (gm part # 15153959) are also an excellent addition to improve ride quality. These torsion bar ifs trucks have no natural rebound like a well-designed coil spring suspension or even leaves so an excellent dampener in conjunction with a stiffer jounce stop will make the suspension much more responsive (though you are limiting the amount of travel from the front suspension).

There is a bit of trial and error involved in setting up the suspensions on these trucks, but they ride and handle quite well once you spend the time doing it correctly. Best of luck to you and we're all here to answer an questions you may have.



Man your truck is beutiful!!! I wish I had bought TBSS wheels now..


I have a question on the bump stop deal. Are you guys completly removin the front bump stops and the bracket? My bump stops are completly worn out and Im wondering shold I replace them or remove them? I only have keys. It sits lik I want it to but the ride up front is harsh. The bolts on the keys are screwed all the way in. Should I replace the bump stops and unsrew (soften) them? LMK. I just put the kit on today (Eibach keys and springs).


Kev:Handshake:
 
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