My quest to drive in a straight line

[liquify33]

I tried to do my own pitman arm on a 4x4 and gave up. I managed to get it loose but could not get a puller in under the subframe by loosening the bolts like you can on a RWD. I even tried one of the low profile guys, there's just no room without pulling the steering box. It was just too big of a job for the 3 hours I had allocated and a very wimpy floor jack (tires maybe 1" off the ground).


All that to say: Upon tightening, torqueing and greasing everything back up about 75% of the slop went away.

ETA: I did have the pitman and idler replaced by a shop that gave me a really cheap quote -- I think he used the RWD flag rates. The guys were cursing him out when I got there to pick it up lol.

 

[calsdad]

I tried to do my own pitman arm on a 4x4 and gave up. I managed to get it loose but could not get a puller in under the subframe by loosening the bolts like you can on a RWD. I even tried one of the low profile guys, there's just no room without pulling the steering box. It was just too big of a job for the 3 hours I had allocated and a very wimpy floor jack (tires maybe 1" off the ground).


All that to say: Upon tightening, torqueing and greasing everything back up about 75% of the slop went away.

ETA: I did have the pitman and idler replaced by a shop that gave me a really cheap quote -- I think he used the RWD flag rates. The guys were cursing him out when I got there to pick it up lol.

I read up quite a bit before attempting the Pitman arm - and after trying to get the puller I had on the thing - with the steering box still in the truck - I came to the conclusion that the only way it was going to get done was by removing the steering box.

The job ended up being pretty easy on my truck ( 2010 Yukon XL 2500) but that is partially because the steering shaft is round with two flats on it - which correspond to flats on the steering box. So it's pretty hard to screw up the alignment of the steering box to the steering shaft as long as you pay attention. In earlier trucks - where I believe the shaft on the steering box is splined - it would probably be harder.

Once I had the box out - pulling the Pitman arm off - and putting the new one on - was really straightforward using a high torque air wrench and the right puller. I used the puller I had sitting in my toolbox that last got used about 25 years ago when I swapped an IROC box into my Chevelle and had to swap the Pitman arm.

 

[Squirrelsmith]

I tried to do my own pitman arm on a 4x4 and gave up. I managed to get it loose but could not get a puller in under the subframe by loosening the bolts like you can on a RWD. I even tried one of the low profile guys, there's just no room without pulling the steering box. It was just too big of a job for the 3 hours I had allocated and a very wimpy floor jack (tires maybe 1" off the ground).


All that to say: Upon tightening, torqueing and greasing everything back up about 75% of the slop went away.

ETA: I did have the pitman and idler replaced by a shop that gave me a really cheap quote -- I think he used the RWD flag rates. The guys were cursing him out when I got there to pick it up lol.

Good to know. I'll do it while i have my steering box out

 

[exp500]

With my old girl, I could not get a good alignment no matter the 4 shops I tried- so I wound up doing it myself. Used 4each 8x8 blocks about 18" long, 2 ea. 3/4x1 1/2 25 ft long.(had these), and another 3/4x 1 1/2 about 7 feet. Put the blocks next to tires, set long tubes on top and push against tires. May need to use some 3 foot tubes as shims front or back for wheel track spacing.Now that tires straight, measure distance from rim to rim each side. They better be equal. Now you can easily see/measure toe, and see if there is a difference left or right. Next - buy a couple 2-3 wheel rim clamps, the kind that push in between tire and rim, and some aluminum angle 2x2x1/8 about 6 feet. Make a TEE that fits about the centerline of the wheel. Make sure i'ts square. Use 3 screws/nuts washers to secure angle. Attach wheel clamps to this then attach to wheel. Level it front/rear. Use your angle finder on this now. Shows Camber. Set to Vertical then turn wheel left(drivers side) about 30 degrees or so. check vertical angle (write it down)measure angle turned. Reset Vertical to zero. Turn wheel straight ahead.(write down angle) . A little math and you have Caster. Factory specs are about 3 1/2 degrees caster max. Lucky if you can get 1 1/2. which I consider MINIMUM. If your rim to rim distance is off more than about 1/16 truck will wander like crazy. If you cant get enough caster you may need delco 45k0824cam bolts2 1/4 degrees, and 45k0201offset control arm bushings 1 degree. Set toe to about 1/16. Anything more than this and mileage drops 2mpg, along with front tires wearing in 40000 miles not 75000. Set camber to zero. Hope this helps.

 

[exp500]

While you have the Box out, add a 96 power steering pump and hoses. Shim the pump to drop the pressure about 300-700 lbs depending on the feel you want. Leave the EVO plugged in unused and tywrapped. (No codes). Worked for me.

 

[Squirrelsmith]

While you have the Box out, add a 96 power steering pump and hoses. Shim the pump to drop the pressure about 300-700 lbs depending on the feel you want. Leave the EVO plugged in unused and tywrapped. (No codes). Worked for me.

I cant i have a pump for hydoboost, it has a extra port

 

[Squirrelsmith]

Seems the idler and pitman are hard if you pull what they are attached to. Been slow getting parts. The u joint is on its way

 

[Squirrelsmith]

got the idler, pitman and u joint on the way. redhead gearbox place is local to me so i'll pull mine and drive down there for the core return. its coming along

 

[Squirrelsmith]

Wow I took the flaming river u joint out of the box and was playing around with it and this thing is a piece of art. I can see why it was $100. nice engraving, looks to be made out of some sort of rust resistant steel or maybe even nickle plated? The finish is beautiful and the action is butter smooth!

 

[Merc1973]

Keep us updated. Im doing the rag joint in my inlaw's k1500 today.

There is NO need to remove the steering gear to replace pitman arm. All you do is remove sway bar, and remove the steering gear bolts on the frame and you can move it just enough to get use your 34mm socket with impact on it. Easy to get the pitman puller with impact in there. I just did this yesterday on a 94 K1500 (4x4) Suburban. Easy peasy.... Also did idler arm/bracket and tie rods. I used the string method alignment for toe from front to rear.