Need a new motor

[atis]

I didnt take any picts of the top of the old engine but can...without the heads as we pulled them looking to see which cylinder had the gasket leak..but it looked like crap.

I am running 10w30 mineral oil for 500 miles, then change oil and run her for another 500 miles. Then change this time to synthetic. (I need to double check the instructions but I am pretty sure they said I can run synthetc after 1000miles). No WOT runs till after 500 miles, varying my speed for the first 100 miles...no long highway runs. I too went back to green anti-freeze. I had bars-Leak and other crap in the water jackets. No WOT for me till the 2000 mile mark.

 

[wcole35]

Just have to ask...

did you use your stock manifold or did you find an upgrade? you are doing exactly what i am wanting to do but i have the ability to have it done by my brother who is a mechanic. I am having trouble with the manifold to tbi. i have found a ton of manifolds, they just all seem to be for a carbed engine. when you mentioned the spider...was that the tbi? sorry i am a complete newb. trying to learn as much as possible before investing $$$$$ in my tahoe.

 

[TigerEyz3]

The fuel spider is for the Vortec motor (no carb) - direct cylinder injection vs. the carb's bowl setup.

 

[wcole35]

Was your new spider a stock CPI unit or did you find an after market? Let me know as my project begins soon. your string has helped me a lot. thanks

 

[atis]

I picked up the spider from Amazon for $250 (I think thats what I paid). It moves the injectors down to the cylinders rather then up under the throttle body. I used my stock intake and TB.

I bought the crate motor from paceperformance and then added/replaced/upgraded the following:

1) new spider (new design)
2) Volant CAI (upgrade)
3) JBA shorty headers (upgrade)
4) Alum 2 core radiator (upgrade...about 1/2" thicker)
5) Oil pressure sensor (broke the original)
6) Knock sensor (broke it when we accidentally dropped the engine into the engine bay. LOL)

 

[atis]

Update...truck is running fine. I am having a little cold start issue...whats everyones timing at idle on a cold engine? Mine is 21* using my scan tool with live data feed. I am not throwing any codes but I didnt mark the dizzy before removing her so I had to guess at the timing and reset the SES till I hit enough advance the puter was happy.

Also, the radiator works great...almost oo great. In 30*F temps I can drive for over 30 minutes and she wont hit operating temps!! I need the E Fans so I can force her to warm up in a decent amount of time... I am freezing my backside off waiting for her to warm up.

 

[99Yuk]

I think its supposed to be 0 degrees with a tolerance of +- 2 degrees.

I had an apprentice adjust my distributor while I was reving the motor to over 1000rpms and calling out the numbers. We actually did get it bang on 0 degrees.

If your sitting at 21 degrees, is it possible your off by a gear tooth? Your certainly going to have issues.

Just to clarify. I was reading the cam retard timing numbers when doing the timing on mine.

 

[atis]

We had everything set to 0 degrees but it threw a SES light (crank sensor not communicating)...then I looked at the instructions and I was suppose to mark the rotor along the dizzy housing cause the timing is set at the factory which I hadnt done but they make a reference of 26* from TDC. We bumped it back (just turned the dizzy) and now no SES light...remember that thats with everything connected. On the vortec the timing isnt adjustable its computer controlled but I am still interested as to what everyone else is seeing at cold idle on a live data read.

 

[99Yuk]

Ok, so now I'm confused. On My 99 vortec crate, there is no timing that can be adjusted, just the cam retard setting which has to be 0 +- 2, and is adjusted by turning the distributor. The TSB says that readings are unreliable at idle. you have to be over 1000rpm to adjust that.

So if the timing can't be adjusted per say, and your cam retard is already at 0, and you can't measure it at idle, then the part I'm confused about is, what exactly are you asking us to look at idle in regards to timing?

Sorry, I honestly don't know what your asking, but I can check mine and give you answers if I knew what your asking. I have access to snapon and genisys data readers, plus generic odbcII readers.

 

[atis]

I have a code scanner with live data read...shows me whats going on real time with the truck running. Its showing 21* of timing at idle (830 rpms). I am curious as to what everyone else is getting as a reading at idle/the rpm. I am not sure if I turned the dizzy too much. Yes the SES is off and I am not throwing any codes but then again not sure if I went too far for good power/mpg and if I did that might be why I occassionally have a hard cold start...10 second crank before she catches.

Now I am confused, how does teh dizzy effect the cam?